Pete Mel on a monster.
Pete Mel on a monster.

Traditionally stoic big wave surfers shriek in horror as new study suggests California’s Mavericks disappearing due climate change!

Ch-ch-ch-changes.

BeachGrit is, as you know, an anti-depressive place where you can come and be amongst friends, learning about the love lives of surf-adjacent celebrities, how they intersect with Kelly Slater and, occasionally, receive hot real-estate advice. The stuff of flowery dreams. Wars and rumors of wars, economic or environmental collapse can momentarily be forgotten except, I suppose, today in the wake of a Washington Post hit piece declaring that iconic Northern California big wave Mavericks is on its way out the door due climate change.

Following the lantern-jawed Grant Washburn, who has been surfing Mavericks since it was “just a rumor,” the report discusses how the cliff ringing the beach is eroding at an alarming rate, crumbling and tumbling into the ocean below.

“You can argue the cause, but you can’t argue the beaches have receded,” Washburn told the outlet. “… People would say, ‘Oh, that’s a 100-year swell; you’re not going to see that again in your lifetime.’ And then like, a month later there would be another one. And it was like, huh? So either guys have the wrong name for this stuff or the scale is broken.”

I completely agree with the overuse of “100-year swell,” and cast an angrily squinted eye Surfline‘s way.

Cheryl Hapke, a coastal geologist who wrote a 2007 survey which declared Mavericks has the fastest eroding cliffs in the state, said, “These atmospheric rivers are problematic because it’s going to cause erosion to increase.”

But what of the wave itself? That cold monster that bubbles from the deep and horrifies?

Well, it breaks on a 5 million-year-old paleo seabed too far out to sea to be affected by cliff erosion though rising sea levels etc. may flatten the wave as it won’t be able to “feel” the reef anymore.

It has been one of the worst winters in memory, according to Washburn, with only a few surf-able days. “It’s kind of a weird setup where you want a storm but not right on you,” he said, adding, “Mavericks has seen some of the biggest waves that I think we ever recorded. But we couldn’t surf them.”

All very sad but silver lining? A grand opportunity for the World Surf League to send Connor O’Leary and Jadson Andre to Half Moon Bay in order to plant some small bushes?

Synergy.


White devils plotting latest outrage on POC.

Rich white surfers “polluting the air breathed by LA’s people of colour” claims Los Angeles Times in bombshell op-ed from climate and environment desk!

“History fails to record one single instance in which the white man as a people did good.”

I hardly need to remind any of you that many of us, although not all mercifully, carry the mark of the devil, a ghastly almost translucent epidermis that identifies us as, in the words of the great Malcolm X, “a devil (who) must be destroyed.” 

Expanding on that theme shortly before his assassination by a fellow black Muslim Malcolm added, “History fails to record one single instance in which the white man – as a people – did good. They have always been devils; they always will be devils, and they are about to be destroyed.” 

No need to list the white devil’s myriad crimes, colonialism, slavery, technology, medicine, space travel etc although the latest charge by the LA Times that “white and affluent drivers are polluting the air breathed by L.A.’s people of color” might be one head-kick too many. 

Sammy Roth, a white-devil presenting reporter who writes about climate change for the Times and who would “very much like to see the Dodgers win the World Series again”, begins the piece with the guilt he feels driving on LA’s freeways and his complicity in choking the lungs of the city’s people of colour. 

“Angelenos who drive more tend to be exposed to less air pollution — and Angelenos who drive less tend to be exposed to more pollution,” he writes. “It may sound like a paradox, but it’s not. It’s a function of the racism that shaped this city and its suburbs, and continues to influence our daily lives — and a stark reminder of the need for climate solutions that benefit everyone.”

Essentially, and you can read it here ‘cause it ain’t hiding behind the usual paywall, white devils protest the building of highways near their fancy neighbourhoods and therefore, “truck traffic from the ports of L.A. and Long Beach ends up routing through lower-income neighborhoods in Alhambra, a city whose population is overwhelmingly Asian and Latino.”

And who drives more than surfers?

Later in the story, one of his quoted sources mentions that it ain’t a fait accompli that whites are giving POC’s lung cancer, but that “Majority-white Westside neighborhoods, for instance, could also be benefiting from ocean breezes that push pollution into predominantly Black and Latino areas.”

So maybe yeah, maybe no.

Are you LA? Do you feel complicit in these crimes?

Or do you roam the coastline, Palos Verdes through Venice and Topanga and Malibu with nary a care in the world for your POC brothers and sisters?


Slater (pictured) celebrating resurrection. Photo: WSL
Slater (pictured) celebrating resurrection. Photo: WSL

As Cameron Diaz officially retires for second time, surf fans lick lips in hope that former soon-to-be jobless “pal” Kelly Slater and acting great rekindle “friendship!”

Classic Notebook.

Ink on the Kelly Slater and Gisele Bündchen reunion obituary is not yet dry, lightly streaking down the paper like tears down surf fans’ cheeks, but that has not stopped the latter from re-dreaming big dreams. As you know, the Brazilian supermodel has been linked to a billionaire who earned money from his father’s real-estate cunning thus ending hope that she would reengage a man holding mere tens of millions even though that man happens to be an ex flame and also the best surfer in the world.

Hope springs, though, and, today, news is breaking that Cameron Diaz is set to retire from professional acting for the second time.

The Charlie’s Angels starlet, who came back from early retirement to act in a film with Jamie Foxx, reportedly had a “meltdown” on set and is finished with the whole business, sources citing her desire to be home with family instead of slaving for ten-hour days.

Well, surf fans are keenly aware that Diaz’s former… friend, Kelly Slater, will soon be on his way to Australia in order to face a retirement firing squad. The surf great, who retired in the mid-2000s and then again when Joel Parkinson did, will, like Diaz, be older and finished with work.

Diaz and Slater were photographed much after the blonde stunner split from then-boyfriend Justin Timberlake and the attraction was clear but harshly denied. “We’re just friends,” Slater told People Magazine, though the 11x World Champion is well-known for his head games.

Now, Diaz is currently married to musician Benji Madden, the two sharing a child, and Slater is claiming that, someday, he and longtime girlfriend Kalani Miller will become married but…

Might the two rekindle a healthy friendship that could grow into an even healthier friendship?

One of them caring for the other in a beautiful old folk’s home he or she has built by hand?

Have you never seen The Notebook?

Stop what you’re doing and watch now.


Wright (pictured) carrying a year's worth of rage. Photo: Olympics
Wright (pictured) carrying a year's worth of rage. Photo: Olympics

Surfers on the bubble of dreaded WSL mid-season cut break into panicked sweat with announcement of revenge-crazed Owen Wright wildcard for upcoming Bells Beach!

Cape Fear comes to Torquay.

Yesterday global surf fans rejoiced at the announcement that one of the precious wildcard slots for the upcoming Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach would be gifted to Owen Wright who declared he would use the moment to announce his retirement. The Olympic bronze medalist, and mainstay on the World Surf League Championship Tour, stated, “After my traumatic brain injury in 2015, my desire to prove to myself and the world that I could still be great and overcome this life-threatening incident inspired my recovery. Given my recent history with head injuries and concussions, competing at some of the heaviest waves on the planet is no longer in the best interest of my long-term health.I excelled in these conditions over my career, but the risks associated with this type of surfing are too significant for someone in my position, given my medical history.”

And while global surf fans were drying their eyes while fetching Owen Wright singlets from cedar-lined hope chests, the Championship Tour surfers, themselves, and especially those residing near the dreaded mid-year cut line, are quaking with fear.

Wright, himself, was one of the major names guillotined last year, given a proper head injury as it rolled from the blade and into the gutter. He was certainly having an off year but was not nearly incompetent, many good years appearing out ahead.

And you don’t imagine that revenge, a Cape Fear-style madness, has been percolating for an entire year?

Pictures tacked to the walls of one of his beautiful homes featuring World Surf League foes in crosshairs?

You certainly recall the 1962 thriller starring Robert Mitchum, remade in 1992 starring Robert Di Niro, wherein a very angry ex-con terrorizes the family of the public defender he believes responsible for his lengthy imprisonment.

Aye, aye, aye.

As a wildcard, he will come up against those in danger of The Widow including, possibly, Connor O’Leary, Matt McGillivray, Kanoa Igarashi, Kolohe Andino and one Kelly Slater.

How many skulls do you think Wright will carry with him into retirement?

The aforementioned greatest of all-time’s?


Tears for the Big O last year after being cut from the tour. | Photo: Make or Break, Apple +

Fairytale turns sour as surf Olympian swindled of fortune by crooked bookkeeper and controversially cut from world tour despite grave brain injury sensationally quits pro surfing!

Owen gets a wildcard from his sponno Rip Curl for Bells, then he’s out.

Do you believe in fairytales? We do! 

Our naivety, if you could call it that, was proved true six years ago when Owen Wright, who doctors said would never walk again, let alone surf, after a catastrophic brain injury following a wipeout at Pipeline in 2015, won the Snapper Pro two years after the devastating accident. 

But, yeah, fairytales also turn sour. 

The one-time world title contender who was dumped from the 2023 tour after missing the mid-year cut last year, has formally announced his retirement from competition citing a fear of lighting up the old brain injury. 

“After my traumatic brain injury in 2015, my desire to prove to myself and the world that I could still be great and overcome this life-threatening incident inspired my recovery,” the thirty three year old said in a WSL statement. “Given my recent history with head injuries and concussions, competing at some of the heaviest waves on the planet is no longer in the best interest of my long-term health.I excelled in these conditions over my career, but the risks associated with this type of surfing are too significant for someone in my position, given my medical history.”

He ain’t totally shelving his boards, however.

“I hope to keep surfing for the rest of my life,” he said. “I love surfing and thank the sport for everything I have.”

Owen gets a wildcard from his sponno Rip Curl for Bells, then he’s out.

A couple of years back it was revealed a family friend turned bookkeeper to the Wright family had swindled ’em of $1.5 mill. Over the course of eight years, beginning in 2012, Owen was fleeced for $815,000 via 317 electronic transfers by the woman who was revealed to be a keen horse racing enthusiast. 

If you’re worried O ain’t got a pot to piss in, as they say here in the Antipodes, fear not. 

Despite the plume of golden hair, swooning eyes and bullfighter’s body that once whipped women into a froth, O is a real estate developer of considerable note.

You’ll remember the $1.6 million house at Lennox Head with its indoor swimming pool that meandered through the living room,  the Federation-style house in Byron Bay (a little under a million), the beachfront townhouse at Thirroul (675,000) and the gorgeous mountain-top hideaway (bought for 750k, sold for a million).

And, recently, the beach shack he bought for $5.1 million in Byron Bay before bulldozing it and building four luxury villas, keeping one for himself and another for his biz partner and selling the remaining two for $6.5 mill apiece. 

Hence, no GoFundMe etc.