João Chianca at Teahupoo, day three, Olympics
João Chianca fought a brutal hand-to-hand battle with Ramzi in which they traded nearly non-stop barrels. It was up there with one of the best heats I’ve watched lately — and maybe ever. | Photo: ISA/Tim McKenna

João Chianca’s return from horrifying injury to win at massive Teahupoo is a near-perfect Olympic story!

If his story doesn’t make something under your breastbone feel a little warm, I’m not sure you have anything in there.

I am a bad surf journalisming.

On the first day of the Olympics, I drove the 405, because I am a Californian and that’s what we do. I did not watch surfing on the opening day. As I traversed the 5, the 73, the 405, the 10, the 1, and the 101, updates from friends hopscotched the cell phone towers. Once in a while, I sneaked a look. Mostly, I didn’t know what was happening and I felt fine — as fine as a girl can feel on the 405 and all the other freeways.

Driving in the summer in Southern California is an adventure, and not in a good way. Every time I get in the car, it feels like paddling out on the most crowded day I’ve ever surfed. There’s always that one guy. Parking is about as likely as scoring a set wave during a Surfline Swell at Trestles. I’m desperately trying to focus on doing the thing — catching a wave, or driving the car — while fighting against becoming the worst version of myself. I’m just an idiot surrounded by a sea of other idiots.

Last Tuesday I surfed tiny Swamis, mostly just to savor the absurdly warm ocean temperatures. I got lucky and scored a parking place not that far away at all. I wore a bikini which felt delightfully breezy after so much time in rubber. Two long-timers paddled around, happy to be there. How’s it going, bro? Oh, you know, living the dream!

On Saturday I was in San Clemente at Sur Coffee — they have a delightful elderberry hibiscus iced tea — when I messaged my friend to ask if Caroline won her heat. Parked on the 405, I eventually saw the answer. Caroline won — and by the end of the day, she had the highest heat score of the opening round.

That was right around the time that a friendly dude tried to tell me that the hood on my rental car was not securely latched. Now, you would think that a modern car with every convenience would tell me this very important thing. It did not. Also, it is very hard to understand a helpful dude while driving in traffic on the 405. Only once I went much faster did I see my hood begin to levitate. This seemed bad, actually.

I pulled over to the slim excuse for a shoulder and punched the hazards. Crawling through the car, I exited on the passenger side. I smashed that hood down. But it didn’t stay! This also seemed bad. I smashed it again! Then it stayed. It just needed some extra convincing. I crawled back through the car, merged into traffic, and continued on my way. Thanks, helpful 405 dude!

In Malibu, I saw four bros packed into a GTI with a Sex Wax air freshener hanging from the rearview and four boards stacked on the roof. The whole setup looked like a clown car, what with the bros, the giant boards, and the tiny car. Living their best life! Bro Summer is here, baby!

At the Malibu Blue Bottle, where a crazy lady had locked herself in the bathroom, I learned that Caity won her heat, too.

On the second day of the Olympics, well, you can see how this whole thing was going. You’d think that the next day, being home and no longer on the 405 — which, at a certain point, I began to think that maybe the 405 was going to become my home — I would in fact, watch the Olympics. But, I did not.

Blame the fleas. Living on the coast in California is great. Really, it is. But occasionally, there are some minor threats to the tranquility of the whole situation. Eventually, inevitably, there will be fleas. And you know what? I hate those little assholes. Burn me on a good wave on your stupid Wavestorm and I will still hate you less than I hate fleas. But fleas, we had them.

Between vacuuming the couch and combing the cats, I dropped into the Olympics livestream. The waves looked bad. Also, I had fleas to kill. So, I did not watch the second day of the Olympics. My cats were very happy about this life choice.

I do know that Molly lost to Johanne and it didn’t seem right that they met in the second round. Eventually, the gaps in performance levels on the women’s side should narrow, and the double-CT heats won’t stand out quite so much. At least, I hope that’s what happens. For now, the draw is weirdly lopsided. Caity meets Tati in round 3, for instance. I don’t love it.

On the third day of the Olympics, I watched the surfing out of one eye, while I tried to finish a story on deadline with the other eye. This was not an easy task. Do not try this at home. I am a trained professional. At something. My editor wanted his copy. Teahupoo was firing.

I stopped writing long enough to watch Kauli dispatch Griff. It’s a tough loss for Griff, but it’s hard not to be happy to see the local boy advance. I skipped some heats to finish my story. It’s hard to be responsible.

But the men fucking sent it today. João’s return from his horrifying injury at Pipe to win his heat in massive Teahupoo caverns is a near-perfect sports story. If his story doesn’t make something under your breastbone feel a little warm, I’m not sure you have anything in there. He fought a brutal hand-to-hand battle with Ramzi in which they traded nearly non-stop barrels. It was up there with one of the best heats I’ve watched lately — and maybe ever.

After that no-holds barred fight, the much-anticipated John-Jack heat felt anti-climactic. The wind began to hit it, and both of them got smoked on their opening waves. The swell lulled out. Jack managed to put it back together and get the scores. Inside three minutes to go, John pulled into deep one, but it was too little, too late. Jack advanced, and both Americans are out.

If João’s heat was one of the best I’ve seen, I’m pretty sure the final heat of the day was one of the scariest. The wind whipped through the lineup and turned it to chaos. Ethan and Connor surfed like they believed in immortality. Watching Connor cartwheel down the face, I wasn’t sure he was going to come back up. Ethan won it in a ballsy as fuck performance. If you were thinking he’s just a pretty face with stylish turns, guess again. They played for keeps.

The men’s quarterfinal draw is hilarious, really. Alonso Correa and Inaba Reo open the party. Then it gets silly, and I’m beginning to think ISA needs a rule against seeding surfers from the same country against one another. Kauli and Joan, Gabe and João, and Jack and Ethan all meet in the quarters. Two Australians enter, only one can leave. You get the idea.

Next call is tomorrow morning, and women’s round 3 could be next. Caity and Tati meet in heat 6, and it should be straight fire if it runs in good waves. Looking at the seeding, I’d expect most of the CT girls to advance, though there’s always the possibility for surprises. I do like surprises.

Unless they’re fleas. Fuck fleas.

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Filipe Toledo rallies entire nation behind gold medal dream, “This was more than one brave hero threading that smallish tube!”

No stakes higher for Filipe Toledo. A father behind him, a nation rallying and an evil villainous surf journalist brought low.

In today’s episode of Chas Smith Hates Surfing, the controversial surf journalist issues a rare mea culpa after his claim that Filipe Toledo would never stiffen his spine at Teahupoo.

Well.

“Yesterday, Brazil’s Filipe Toledo scratched into a four-footer and, now, Filipe Toledo is the King of Teahupoo. Ladies and gentlemen, I was proven wrong. This was more than one brave hero, threading that smallish tube.

“Filipe Toledo rallied a nation and the Brazilian surf fan came ready. A trademark mixture of death threats and poop emojis rained down upon the offending surf journalist, bashing and breaking him, allowing Filipe Toledo to come out of the barrel, arms raised in victory.

“A day that maybe is the most historic in surfing history. I would argue Filipe Toledo’s Teahupoo Olympic tube rivals any great moment that you care to conjure. No stakes higher. A father behind him, a nation rallying and an evil villainous surf journalist brought low. 

“Yes, I only played a small role in this epic tale, but it was a necessary role.”

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Australian Jack Robinson, Teahupoo, Paris 2024.
Jackie Robinson, always a thrill to watch when the surf gets a little hot. | Photo: ISA/Tim McKenna

Filipe Toledo fails in bid for Olympic gold as Teahupoo turns into “a deadly paradise”

Nearly every man met the challenge head on. Nearly every man.

Who’d have thought the Olympics could provide the most entertaining day of men’s professional surfing in memory?

Teahupoo was huge, cerulean blue, and fearsome. It looked exactly like the deadly paradise it had been hyped to be.

Nearly every man met the challenge head on. Nearly every man.

TLDR: if you missed today’s action, I implore you to re-watch heats four, five and six, at the least. The sixth, between Brazil’s Joao Chianca and Morocco’s Ramzi Boukhiam, may well belong somewhere in the pantheon of greatest ever.

I missed the opener between Jordy Smith and Peru’s Alonso Correa, and the convoluted process of getting a stream means no chance of a replay at this early stage. Please let me know if I missed anything of note, beyond the fact a virtually unknown surfer put paid to Jordy’s Olympic dreams.

I did catch the second heat between Japan’s Reo Inaba and two-time world champ, Filipe Toledo. But we’ll return to this.

Suffice to say that when Griffin Colapinto and Kauli Vaast hit the line-up for heat three, their smoothness and composure was such stark contrast to the previous heat it was like being bathed in blood-warm water by a bevy of beautiful handmaidens.

Both men were selective, catching just five waves between them, but local boy Vaast chose the best brace, edging out Colapinto, who might have won three or four of the other heats today.

Vaast had looked very stern on the boat before the heat. His comfort in the line-up here is a certainty, so we might reasonably assume the occasion was the cause for tension. This seemed to be evidenced by an exuberant claim for a chunky wave that he was not especially deep on.

On paper alone, I was not especially hyped by the prospect of the next heat between veteran Frenchman, Joan Duru, and a surfer representing Mexico (but entirely unknown to me), Alan Cleland.

More fool me. And from this day forth I will take note of the name.

Cleland was brash and swaggering, and his surfing backed it up. A no-hand barrel was the greatest example of this. If he’d been dressed in a pair of Billabong rising sun boardies, we might have been forgiven for thinking the Second Coming was upon us.

But he came up against Duru in the form of his life. The Frenchman expertly threaded deep, technical barrels to earn a pair of nines and a heat win which was ultimately deserved, yet not as comfortable as the scoring discrepancy might suggest.

And then came the Medina show.

His level of excitement to be unleashed upon these conditions was palpable, and the 9.90 he was awarded for his second wave should really have been a ten. Two judges agreed.

It was a perfect wave, the stuff posters are made of. He hung onto the drop by the tips of his toes, committing his entire soul to the make. Flying out with the spit, he launched off the back of the wave, body straight and torqued, as if he was walking through the air.

The score made mockery of the history of high nines.

“A beautiful, life-threatening wave,” said Chris Cote.

After this he was rampant, even grinning from ear to ear as he was plucked from the melee of a non-make by the Tahitian water patrol. He backed up with a mid-seven, and the heat was over.

Medina lives for days like this.

All that power, all that love of the game. On days like today it comes to the fore.

If you’re one of his few remaining detractors who professes to love surfing, well, you should hang your head in shame and set fire to your wetsuit.

In truth, he deserved a better opponent than an out-of-sorts Kanoa Igarashi, but it wouldn’t have mattered. The only man in the world who can defeat Gabriel Medina at Teahupoo on days like today is himself.

Somewhere around this time I noted the cleanliness of the broadcast. There were no breaks, no missed waves, no irrelevant interviews, and no clown princes spruiking ladders or noodles.

The surfing simply flowed in all its glory, and that was enough.

And it would have been criminal to interrupt any second of the heat between Joao Chianca and Ramzi Boukhaim.

It was an exhibition of such quality and commitment that, truly, no man deserved to lose.

Both held high nines backed up by eights, and both threw away further eights.

Boukhaim looked like he’d flipped the heat late with a 9.70, the highest score of the match, but Chianca was undeterred, turning the heat with an 8.80 as the clock ebbed away.

Really, you should just watch it and savour it for yourself.

But the story of this heat is much deeper than what we saw in the water.

Boukhaim, the veteran who battled for years to make the WCT, only to injure his ankle in the days prior to the first event and miss the whole season.

Then Chianca, who is only now returning to competition after being pulled unconscious from the water at Backdoor prior to the start of this year’s Tour.

In these men, there is nothing if not total commitment.

It was hard to imagine we could better this heat, and that turned out to be the case.

The match-up between Jack Robinson and John Florence held promise of explosive beauty for fans of professional surfing, but as is so often the way with these marquee match-ups, it failed to flare.

Both men came out primed for tens or zeros. They blew two waves apiece to begin before Robinson found a little rhythm to take the win with just mid-range scores.

Florence failed to make even double figures in his heat total, as unlikely a scenario as you might imagine given the conditions. Perhaps one of his heavy beatings early in the heat was to blame.

The waves were a little less perfect and a little less consistent throughout the match-up. The irony of the two best waves we’d seen all day rolling through unridden in the seconds after it finished was not lost.

After this the wind turned, strengthened and ruined the party. Ethan Ewing bettered Connor O’Leary and the comp was called off for the women who had been slated to follow. More’s the pity.

And so what of Filipe Toledo? What did our two-time world champ do on this day of days?

Well, for a long while it looked like he might repeat his infamous zero point heat total, but as it was he notched a 2.46. Three waves attempted, none critical or close, the highest coming in at a 1.43.

He was roundly trounced by the committed Japanese surfer, Reo Inaba, who deserved the victory regardless of Toledo’s no-show.

Inaba charged and grinned throughout. Even when he was ragdolled by the heaviest wave in the world, he still came up smiling.

Toledo, by contrast, was locked back into his familiar grimace, looking like he’d rather be anywhere else in the world. Ideally 24 hours in the past, posting an obscene number of Instagram stories highlighting his waves from yesterday.

But pay for his hubris he did.

With all sincerity, I hope he is ok, because I can scarcely imagine a greater swing from high to low.

Yesterday, his demons had been vanquished, silenced and sent back to that dark chamber in the pit of his soul.

Today, they are back upon his shoulder, wailing and cackling into the shot blood of his eyeballs.

And I fear that when it’s all said and done, it won’t be two world titles and some of the most dynamic surfing ever done that is Filipe Toledo’s legacy, but simply a handful of waves he refused to paddle for.

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Open Thread: Comment Live on shocking Day Three of Olympic Shortboard Surfboarding!

Amazing!

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Yang Siqi (pictured) not shrinking from moment. Photo: Instagram
Yang Siqi (pictured) not shrinking from moment. Photo: Instagram

Hero of China Squad and entire Olympics Siqi Yang stamps mark on intensely lully day two of Teahupo’o Games

"Who doesn’t want to see the People’s Republic smash Yankee dreams?"

An unsurfable day for most of it by WCT standards, I think it’s fair to say.

Windy, intensely lully, very few barrels to begin.

But then, a wave or two that looked like it had been sent from a different day entirely.

Barton Lynch and Shannon Hughes employed their highest pitch and caffeinated cadence, with a liberal sprinkling of WOWs, to elevate the mood of the lulls.

It began with the hero of not just China’s Olympic squad, but the entire Olympics, Siqi Yang.

The diminutive fifteen year old from landlocked China attacked Teahupo’o’s unbarelling but still critical four-foot walls with a backhand that belongs at the highest level of women’s surfing, and certainly leagues ahead of two-time world champion, Tyler Wright.

Queue up the wildcards, WSL.

Yang Siqi will meet Marks Caroline in round three. (Thanks to Cote Chris for clarification of the Olympic house-style commentary by using surnames first.) A tough draw, for sure, but who doesn’t want to see the People’s Republic smash Yankee dreams?

In a line-up of sixteen women for round two, yet only three WCT surfers, it seemed somewhat unjust that two of them met in the fourth heat, Picklum Molly and Defay Johanne.

Once again the Irukandjis were not so much deadly in the water as dead, as Picklum lost out to Defay.

Meat trays flooded with tears and spittle, green and gold sagged, pints of VB evaporated into domestic violence.

It was for no lack of commitment on Picklum’s part as she threw herself into several non-makes, including surfing one wave all the way to achilles deep water and having to scramble, starfish-like, as Lynch noted, off the coral reef.

But Defay’s 7.83 for a rare, clean backside barrel was the decisive blow and the best wave of the day in women’s competition by eye and number.

French territory draws French territory in the next round as Defay matches up with Fierro.

In the men’s competition it took a full twenty-five minutes and a restart before O’Leary Connor struck the first blow against Germany’s Elter Tim.

Elter Tim was committed and looks like he has the potential to be a good backhand barrel technician, but O’Leary notched a pair of mid-sevens in quick succession at windy Teahupo’o, and this was enough.

I must confess, reader, to losing faith in the potential of Teahupo’o to keep me conscious through the wee small hours at this point in proceedings.

Conditions were inconsistent and slow. In response, Hughes and Lynch seemed amplified to amphetamine levels of wittering.

Due diligence aside, I was not compelled to re-watch the meagre victories of Smith Jordy over Waida Rio; Vaast Kauli over McGillivray Matthew; Boukhaim Ramzi over Perez Bryan, nor even Cleland Quinonez Alan over Criere Andy.

However, on evidence of the scores, I did tune in for the final two heats of the day, and this was tactically astute.

Robinson Jack and Mesinas Luca began their heat by paddling each other around the line-up trying to establish position. In doing so, they burned ten minutes of clock and missed the first couple of set waves that rolled through, waves which all of a sudden looked like prime Teahupo’o and an entirely different day than the one that began.

Robinson’s opener was seemingly conjured from whichever salty deities he often seems to be in cahoots with. A near-perfect 9.87 for a deep, clean tube was by some margin the best wave we have seen since competition began.

He backed this up quickly with a seven, and then the waves disappeared. Both men sat in a still, blue ocean as the minutes ticked away. There was no opportunity, there was nothing to be done for Mesinas. He had come face-to-face with wizardry.

I wondered what viewers not versed in the vagaries of swells and lulls (or Robinson’s watery black magic) must’ve thought of surfing as competition?

In the next heat, Toledo Filipe vs Stairmand Billy, nothing happened for ten minutes and more.

Toledo’s first wave, a 7.33 for a tube that looked like it belonged in Surf Ranch rather than Teahupo’o, was perhaps the most competent wave he’s ever ridden here.

In response, Hughes Shannon produced the most honest monologue of surf punditry in living memory. Toledo had “really struggled when it comes to waves of consequence”, she noted.

He had made a semi final here in the past, Hughes went on to say, but it was “one of the smallest years they ever held the event here. Some of the smallest waves they would hold competition in. That’s his bread and butter.”

But she didn’t stop there.

“He really struggles to throw himself over the ledge”, she stated plainly. “Out of 23 heats he’s surfed at Teahupo’o, he’s finished with less than a ten point total in twelve of those heats, which is a pretty poor record.”

But again, Hughes wasn’t done.

“Back in 2015, he had a heat with Italo Ferreira, where he lost without catching a single wave. There were surfable waves throughout that entire heat, and Italo surfed all of them.”

(Lynch, ever the positive apologist, stated in solidarity that he’d registered a zero point heat total in a masters heat.)

Irrespective of what transpired, let’s have a standing ovation for Shannon Hughes, ladies and gentlemen.

For once, it was honest and transparent surf commentary, and that’s a rare bird. Hughes did what other pundits have shied and shirked from too often, and that’s to her eternal credit.

But the confidence Toledo had gained from his opener was parlayed into his last. With just five minutes left of a slow heat, he took off on a solid-ish Teahupo’o wave, threading a deep tube for a 9.67.

It was good, yes, but compare it to Robinson Jack’s wave, if you will.

Toledo’s screaming claims were surely heard in Paris, and it was certainly the best wave he’d ever ridden here.

Is it enough for redemption? He will feel so, and you have to grant him that. Wider opinions will vary.

Pre-competition yesterday, you could get 70/1 on Filipe Toledo to win a gold medal. Today, just 20/1.

Is that a good bet? In wild and wooly conditions we might yet see, not for my money. And I throw money at more or less everything.

It’s difficult to know what to expect for the remaining competition. There will be waves, but they will likely be blown out. But there are some stellar match-ups to anticipate if a window can be found.

Look to Vaast Kauli vs Colapinto Griffin in heat three; Chianca Joao vs Boukhiam Ramzi in heat six; and the pick of the bunch, fit for a final of any competition, Florence John vs Robinson Jack in heat seven.

Pray for barrels as Filipe Toledo has prayed for this day.

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