Julian Wilson returns to pro surfing.
Julian Wilson, aged thirty-six, to re-hit the tour in 2025.

Olympian Julian Wilson described as “best surfer in a generation never to win a world title” returns to pro surfing, aged thirty-six!

Mick Fanning effusive in praise for Wilson's return, "Been waiting for this day!! Go get 'em!"

There was little doubt, if we’re to look deep into our hearts, that former title contender Julian Wilson would one day return to the world tour.

Three years ago, Julian Wilson lit up Instagram with his shock decision to, well, not exactly retire he said, but draw the curtain on his pro surfing career immediately following the Olympics. Wilson, who was only thirty-three at the time, was rated seventeenth on the tour after a pretty ordinary start to the year where he’d netted two seventeenths, two ninths and a fifth.

It wasn’t exactly the world tour year Wilson was hoping for before the window of opportunity closed for the class of 1988, which also includes South African Jordy Smith.

“I’m returning to my roots,” Wilson told the WSL. “I’ll be found surfing the points at Noosa on my longboard and I will also be found chasing some fun high-performance waves around Australia. I have a few projects coming to life that I’m really excited about and I’m just really looking forward to take a step back for a little while.

Wilson had orbited the tour since 2011, was a rookie of the year, made Gabriel Medina cry when he beat him in Portugal in 2012, he beat Medina in the final of the Pipe Masters in 2014 and three years later beat Medina to win the 2017 Tahiti Pro. In 2018, he was the only non-Brazilian to win a tour event. 

In 2015, Julian Wilson bravely paddled towards Mick Fanning in his own existential battle with the second-greatest predator of all time, the Great White shark.

In the wake of his decision to step off the tour, Julian Wilson pivoted to hard-edged multi-functional fashion with his brand Rivvia Projects.

Wilson followed Dane Reynolds/Craig Anderson and Luke Egan into the rag-trade, Reynolds and Ando with Former and Egan with Depactus, a brand that flew a little too close to the sun before the glue holding its wings melted and it was bought for a song by SurfStitch.

Well, today, Julian Wilson has announced he’s back in the competitive surfing game and, although he doesn’t know if his return will be greeted with open arms from the WSL, wildcards etc, he don’t care.

He’s back, even if he has to do regional qualifying events with hopped up eighteen year olds.

This time three years ago I was sitting in a hotel quarantine room in the aftermath of my Tokyo Olympic campaign, watching my dream as a WT surfer fade away while heading home to be the best partner and Dad that could be during a very challenging time (mentally).

I don’t regret my decision for a second and I love my wife and family to bits. Nothing in life compares to a healthy relationship at home and the opportunity to raise a family.

The past 6 months I’ve had competing firmly at the forefront of my mind. It’s time for me to give it another crack. My hope is to get a WSL wildcard for the 2025 challenger series.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Julian Wilson (@julian_wilson)

Much praise from many legends including Mick Fanning who wrote, “Been waiting for this day!! Go get em!” and even the surfer whom Julian made cry, Gabriel Medina.

“Come back brother,” writes Medina, who added the Raising Hands enjoy which indicates praise or celebration.

Question for the below-the-liners: what sorta chance has Julian Wilson got to get through the Challenger Series and then to climb back into the upper rungs of the Champ Tour?

Excellent or not quite-so-excellent?

Load Comments

The math shows that Carissa Moore (left) is greater than Kelly Slater. Photo: New Earth Project
The math shows that Carissa Moore (left) is greater than Kelly Slater. Photo: New Earth Project

Master journalist violently confronts surf journalist over claim Carissa Moore is greater than Kelly Slater

"To make a statement like that is completely moronic and downright disrespectful."

Turmoil in surf fandom, today, after a respected and august surf journalist definitively declared that Hawaii’s Carissa Moore is now the greatest surfer of all-time surpassing Florida’s Kelly Slater. The interaction took place in the bizarre social media landscape of Facebook Messenger, as opposed to the more common Instagram Direct Message, seeing as the surf journalist Chas Smith’s account had been deactivated by Filipe Toledo’s father Ricardo Toledo and his many tears.

The enraged surf fan, using words of violence plus deadnaming, wrote, “Chaz Smith is an idiot. To suggest that Carissa Moore has eclipsed Kelly Slater as the greatest surfer of all time is absolutely absurd. I mean, maybe Chas is just a shit stirrer, but to make a statement like that is completely moronic and downright disrespectful. Kelly Slater is, and always will be the GOAT. No one has had a greater impact on the sport of surfing than Kelly Slater. I am professional journalist with a master’s degree in journalism. Chas Smith is a hack.”

Smith, reeling but also feeling history on his side, responded, “Kelly Slater doesn’t have a gold medal.”

Now altogether furious, the surf fan and master journalist leapt back, “That’s your answer? No he doesn’t. But that doesn’t make any of his accomplishments any less than they are. He’s the GOAT. End of story. Do you guys even surf? Or are you just another clickbait website for inclusion and the ninth-place ribbon mentality? Get the fuck outa here. You’re a joke.”

Smith, not understanding, re-iterated that Moore has won a gold medal, not a ninth-place ribbon, and Slater has not.

“You guys are fucking morons,” the final dagger from master journalist but the math is simple. 5 World Championships + 1 gold medal + graceful retirement > 11 World Championships – naming child.

Prove me wrong.

Load Comments

Sam Worthington (right) dreaming in boog.
Sam Worthington (right) dreaming in boog.

Hollywood shocker as Avatar actor Sam Worthington revealed to be hardcore booger!

"I am now questioning everything I thought I knew about everything."

So there I was, this morning, casually scrolling my phone right around 7:30 when I stumbled on the otherwise innocuous headline “Lara Worthington shows off her incredible figure in a swimsuit as she goes surfing with husband Sam in Costa Rica.” Both names rang a distant bell but not enough to immediately pique interest and so I moved on to read about the Scandinavian sleep method that couples swear by.

Later, near 8:00, I came downstairs to make coffee and get BeachGrit’s day started, wondering what treats would be in store for you, dear reader, today. Perusing the various surf newses, I was, once again, presented with Lara Worthington’s incredible figure.

This time I clicked and my/our whole world came crashing down around me/us.

The piece thankfully led off with reference to Worthington being one of Australia’s most successful models, which allowed me to recall that she used to be Lara Bingle and I remembered her from the Oyster days, as I once wrote for that beautiful fashion magazine. She was, anyhow, spotted in Costa Rica, wearing a “form fitting one-piece,” finishing off her look with a pair of camo-print Crocs with her love, Sam, and presumably their three boys Rocket, Racer and River (take note, Kelly Slater).

Seeing the name Sam Worthington for the second time allowed me to recall him as the lead actor in the James Cameron franchise Avatar.

So there they were, in Costa Rica and, as promised in the headline, surfing. Or at least she was surfing on a yellowing 8-foot funboard. Typical rental fare. The first image of her smiling broadly while riding on her knees was directly next to an image of Sam, who appeared to be riding to shore on his belly. I zoomed in to try an suss out what sort of craft he was on but could not really see through the spray.

Deeper into the piece there were many more snaps of Lara laying on her board, carrying her board, smiling with surf friends…

…and then hammertown.

A photo of Sam zooming down the line all properly positioned etc. on a bodyboard.

Now, we’ve all seen celebrities playing on boogies in the shorebreak etc. but this was not that. The 48-year-old was clearly not just goofing around but serious and looked serious, arm cocked, leaning in, staring at a section to el rollo.

His ride, also, not rental fare, likely a custom and certainly brought from home.

World crashed.

Sam Worthington is a hardcore booger committed to the lifestyle.

I am now questioning everything I thought I knew about everything.

You probably should too.

Load Comments

Filipe Toledo scores a ten at Surf Ranch.
Small-wave wizard Filipe Toledo, who leads the push for taking Olympic surfing out of the ocean and into wave pools, after scoring a perfect ten at Kelly Slater's Surf Ranch. | Photo: Steve Sherman/@tsherms

Olympic surfing in a wave pool would be “a monotony of repetition like when the algorithm keeps playing that same damn song”

Surfing in a wave pool is like chatting with an AI robot. Both the questions and the answers are variations on the same repeated themes.

The other night I rode my bike down to the surf shop to watch a film. While we were waiting for things to start, I got to chatting with a friend. I suggested that after seeing the wildly inconsistent conditions at Tahiti, I might be open to the idea of Olympic surfing moving to a wave pool.

He gave me a hard stare. It was the kind of stare that says, who are you and are we even friends. And then he said that wave pools have no place in contest surfing.

Surfing belongs in the ocean.

My brain made a kind of screeching noise — if you’ve ever ridden a mountain bike with disc brakes that are out of adjustment, you know exactly what kind of noise I mean — and my thoughts came to a grinding halt.

It turns out that a girl can change her mind.

On Friday we learned that the Surf Ranch has put in a bid to host the surfing event at the LA Olympics in 2028. As pretty much everyone here knows, I have been to Lemoore far more times than anyone should have to go. And I can tell you truthfully, that I have not especially enjoyed my visits.

Lemoore is hot. It smells like cowshit. Did I mention that it’s hot? The people at the Tachi Palace are very nice, and so is their pool. But that’s about the only good thing I can say about my visits to the Surf Ranch. In fact, the best thing about going to Surf Ranch is stopping for ice cream on the way back home.

But what about the surfing?

I think we all know the answer to that one by now. After Tahiti I thought, well, an even playing field would be a good idea for the Olympics. The conditions were wildly inconsistent with many wave-starved heats. Climbing takes place indoors on an artificial wall, to name one example.

Why shouldn’t surfing take the same approach?

Then I remembered just how repetitive contest surfing becomes when it moves from the ocean to a place like the Surf Ranch. There are highlights, sure. But mostly, it’s a monotony of repetition, like when the algorithm keeps playing that same damn song. No one really wants to make a mistake out there, and the scarcity of waves reinforces safety surfing. It all adds up to a whole lot of nothing.

And I do feel I have given this wave pool thing more than a fair chance, what with the many trips to Lemoore and the much standing along the pool with aching feet to watch the surfing.

Also, the heat part. But really, it’s just not that interesting.

It was, I feel, very helpful of my friend to remind me of a thing that I knew, but had somehow forgotten. Surfing is not good in a wave pool. It does, in fact, belong in the ocean. Suck it, Surf Ranch!

Surfing is a conversation between a surfer and the ocean. Standing on our boards, we may have a perfect turn in mind, but most of the time, the ocean has an entirely different idea for us. With each wave, the ocean asks a question. It’s up to us to come up with an answer.

Each of us brings something different to the conversation and with every wave, the ocean invites us and provokes us in unexpected ways. The joy of surfing is reacting to each wild swing of the ocean’s moods. That interaction and the potential for surprise it creates is where the magic happens.

Surfing in a wave pool is like chatting with an AI robot. Nothing unexpected happens. Both the questions and the answers are variations on the same repeated themes.

In the ocean, the best surfers seem to have an uncanny ability to see into the future. They always seem to know where the next wave will be and how the wave will shimmy and shift as they surf down the line. This, too, is an essential part of the contest surfing’s game. It’s not just riding the wave. You have to find one, first.

With the vagaries of the ocean, surf contests can never be fair in the way of most traditional sports. Obviously, we all know this. The Olympics necessarily shares the distorted outcomes of the one-day championship final. The best surfer that day will win, sure. But will they actually be the best surfer in the world? Not necessarily, and maybe not even close.

That makes our ridiculous pastime a weird fit for the Olympics, which celebrates the world’s best athletes every four years. As we saw at both Chiba and Teahupo’o, the waves are rarely going to be epic. That means we may never see the kinds of peak performances in surfing that we see in other sports at the Olympics.

World records fall. Gymnasts do death-defying leaps into the air. Surfers paddle out at Huntington Beach.

It’s absurd, but that’s surfing. It’s never fair, and never as good as we hope it will be.

And I think it’s kind of great that surfing in the Olympics looks exactly like us, going to the beach and hoping to get a couple good ones. Surfing is stupid and frustrating and once in a while, transcendent. Surfing is perfect.

I just needed a friend to remind me.

Load Comments

Florida surfers wipe noses, fix world’s problems, after Hurricane Debby delivers cocaine to beaches

A love story.

It’s a good thing this didn’t happen in Brazil, if you know what I mean, House Toledo shaken to its very core, but Hurricane Debby washed a reported $1.6 million United States dollars of cocaine on Florida’s shores after passing by the Sunshine State earlier this month. Surfers wiping noses and solving the world’s most intractable problems. The fourth named storm of the season was described as “erratic” by meteorologists and know we know why.

A “good Samaritan” alerted authorities after stumbling cocaine packages weighing about 70 pounds with an estimated street value of more than $1 million.

“We appreciate the help of Good Samaritans in our community who saw something unusual and contacted law enforcement,” Collier County Sheriff Kevin Rambosk declared.

Boaters found a further $625,000 USD of cocaine floating it the crystalline waters. They, too, turned their find over.

“Some smugglers intentionally drop bales of drugs wrapped in plastic or watertight containers into the sea at predetermined locations for later retrieval by other smugglers,” Brian Townsend, a retired supervisory special agent with the Drug Enforcement Administration, told the most trusted name in news. Weird currents from hurricanes can snatch the loot right up and spit it out in lineups.

Heady days.

But have you ever discovered a bale of cocaine, however small, while surfing?

What did you do with it?

Share, please.

While gathering your thoughts, the award-adjacent book Cocaine + Surfing is available once more after it, too, was nearly cancelled. Get while hot.

Load Comments