Question: Do advancements in big wave surf protection make our heroes look like Beanie Babies?

Come at me.

We live in the future, almost ten years past the future in fact, for who can forget when one Marty McFly traveled to 2015, in 1985, and witnessed a world full of wonders? Skateboards that hovered on air, shoes that tied themselves, little baby Pizza Hut pizzas that expanded to full-size Pizza Hut pizzas when placed in special microwaves and, best, jackets that could dry themselves and maybe inflate.

Alas, our future is a little bleaker than Hill Valley’s though we do have jackets that puff right up and they are worn by our hard-charging big wave surfers. But can I be honest with you for one moment? I find big wave surf protection hideously ugly. The business was brought to a head, for me, during the just-passed Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. The action thrilled, no doubt, our heroes and heroines putting on a historic show and yet I couldn’t get past their bulging back bladders, giant chest bladders and hip pads that extend far beyond anything worn by National Football League players.

Now, I completely understand the adornment at waves like Jaws or Nazare. Mutants that not even McFly would dare paddle even if called a chicken. But Waimea? The Edward, himself, paddled those beasts basically nude. An extremely rude take, no doubt, and coming from a surf journalist who feels a shiver up the spine when playful North County San Diego reaches heights of 4 – 6ft.

But facts are facts.

Ross Clarke-Jones, it must be noted, went without the pillows, almost lost his hand, hacked a dark and drank a beer while the aforementioned appendage was being re-attached.

Ross Clarke Jones almost loses hand in horror wipeout.
Ross Clarke-Jones gets on a heater while contest nurse saves his paw.

Do you have thoughts?

David Lee Scales and I discussed, anyhow, during one of our weekly chats and also continued an important delve into clock milking.

Essential.

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Laguna Beach beats all-comers to take “drunk-driving capital of California” honors for 20th consecutive year!

Gotcha.

California’s annual drunk-driving awards were awash, last night, in typical glitz and glamor as various cities and towns gathered to see which among them would win the coveted crown. Bakersfield, Sacramento, Lemoore, Huntington Beach, Valencia, Fresno, Castroville and Fremont all hopeful beyond hope. The big dogs San Francisco, Los Angeles and San Diego quietly confident. But when the envelope was opened, a gasp filled the gilded Long Beach convention hall.

“This year’s drunk-driving capital of California is…”

“…”

“……”

“…..Laguna Beach!”

It was the 20th consecutive win for the seaside hamlet of 22,000.

While hard-partying surf brands Gotcha and More Core Division once called Laguna home, experts credit the wild string of drunk-driving with the amount of tourists who drunk-drive to the town throughout the year, numbering some 6.5 million.

City officials have, days ago, embarked on a mission of bringing local restaurants and bars into the spotlight. Now, when a person is stopped for DUI, or driving under the influence, police will send a letter to the business that served up his or her last drink, informing them of the time, place and blood-alcohol level.

Laguna Beach Police Chief Jeff Calvert declared, “It’s not intended to be punitive because the business owners don’t know what they don’t know. So it’s an opportunity for them to look at whether there’s a pattern with certain bartenders overserving or do some additional education with not only their bartenders, but their security staff.”

Mayor Alex Rounaghi added, “The data shows us this is a problem that we need to address and I think this is a really very innovative, collaborative and data-driven way of doing that. Any time that we can save a life and prevent future deaths it’s important for us to do that.”

Huntington Beach, it is reported, once considered publicly identifying drunk drivers on the city’s Facebook page.

Ivan Spiers, who owns restaurants Mozambique and Skyloft, opined that the letters don’t fix the problem of drunk drivers, saying, “It’s bureaucracy and a waste of money and time.”

Don’t drunk drive on New Year’s Eve and force Ivan Spiers to read about your blood-alcohol level.

Annoying.

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Kelly Slater COVID-era ballad “Trouble” set to be summer hit of 2025 after cracking lucrative Uruguayan market!

"And ugly things we’ve said, time we’ve spent in vain and the mistakes we’ve made are forgiven."

It’s been almost five years ago since Kelly Slater set up his acoustic guitar in front of his telephone and recorded a ballad he called Trouble while sheltering in place from COVID on Australia’s Gold Coast.

As Chas Smith reported,

The song Kelly Slater sings for us? Our The voice of an angel. Like Jack Johnson tenderly mixed with Yanni. It also appears in his Instagram story but since I cannot post, I’ll dutifully copy the lyrics.

“I wrote this many years ago but just realised the lyrics are fitting for right now…” Kelly tells the camera with such gorgeously serene confidence before launching in.

“Days are passing so fast may not make it through this but I myself believe, I’m better on my own. We made a plan one day to spend our lives let’s do this if our time is now please don’t let it go. So let’s just sail away, and find our place today, forget the yesterdays that we’re living. And ugly things we’ve said, time we’ve spent in vain and the mistakes we’ve made are forgiven. When I feel trouble, I’ll be right there for you. When I feel trouble you’ll be right there for me…”

Kelly Slater’s song quickly disappeared from our lives but has now been resurrected via Uruguayan artist Guille Olivera who took the original and added in his own horns, drums, maracas and back-up vocals.

“Kelly is the biggest idol in surfing history, marked my childhood and adolescence like that of so many others around the world. But it turns out that he is also an exquisite singer-songwriter!!” write Olivera. “And I only found out about this several years later when I opened my Instagram account. There I found this beautiful song of hers ‘Trouble’ and several times over the years I scrolled through her videos to listen to it again. A while ago I had this idea, to take a video of it and record things above it. And now that my vacation has started I enjoyed myself. So much fun playing with Kelly What an amazing guy bo!!”


The result is a song of compassion that will yank on your heart strings and affirm your belief in the redemptive power of love.

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Rad ripper (pictured) demonstrating no fear.
Rad ripper (pictured) demonstrating no fear.

California’s ultra cool surfers fear loss of status after experts declare climate change will eradicate state’s piers

Pier pressure to become a thing of the past?

Everyone knows, I think, that California’s coolest surfers generally congregate around the Golden State’s many piers. Bobbing below the fisherpeople in Pismo, shooting the pilings in Huntington, getting all rad in Ocean Beach etc. Pier Rats, as they are reverentially called, thrive off the high stakes of visibility. One thing to bog a top turn whilst out at a local beachbreak. Quite another thing to do whilst under the discerning eyes of tens, if not hundreds, of inland tourists.

Pier surfing is the creme and who could forget such incredible moments as Laird Hamilton navigating Malibu’s iconic pier back in ’14?

Or Kelly Slater slipping through Huntington’s back in ’11?

Well, bad news for everyone, I think, then, as experts have declared that California’s piers will soon all be demolished thanks to climate change. Just last week week we witnessed a hunk of Santa Cruz’s gorgeous wharf become ripped apart by big waves.

She but a harbinger.

Grinchy meteorologist Patrick Abbott told San Diego’s local NBC affiliate, “We are sticking something out into the largest ocean in the world, expecting it to stand up against huge waves.”

Spreading no Christmas cheer, he continued, “As the ocean comes up farther. (The) tree is pulling up ever saltier water into its system. We’re fighting, shall we say, a greater amount of energy in the ocean. That means we have to build stronger piers to stand up to them, and even those will last for a relatively short time.”

While some cities will attempt to shore up the structures, others are considering simply feeding them to climate change.

Drew Kiel, who enjoys visiting the Ocean Beach pier and showing it off to his Utah-based girlfriend shared, “I think it’s an important piece of California culture that we’re losing if we don’t rebuild it. I think it’s a cultural touchstone for people here. It’s awesome. People who come here to fish and get food for their families. It’s (also) awesome for the tourists.”

His mother added, “Especially if you’re not a surfer or swimmer, you’re stuck on shore … well, on the pier you can walk all the way out …you can see it up close and feel more of its energy.”

RIP.

Now please enjoy the Encyclopedia of Surfing entry on shooting piers before it’s too late.

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Sam Yoon wipes out at Jaws
Sammy Yoon and his wild Jaws wipeout. | Photo: Aaron Lynton

Korean-Australian surfer Sam Yoon found unconscious after Jaws wipeout

“It was like an old television slowly coming on when I started to make out the wave. I just hoped I would make the drop. My whole body was shaking."

It’s the wildest sequence captured this Hawaiian season, the Korean-Australian surfer Sam Yoon losing an edge on a thirty-footer at Jaws, the wave turning off Yoon’s lights, as they say, and photographed by Maui’s Aaron Lynton.

Yoon, who is famous for riding his self-shaped twin-fin guns, a man who ain’t afraid to push the envelope, was found unconscious by those angels who patrol the lineup.

 

“Great job to the Maui boys for holding it down with water safety,” wrote the noted big-wave surfer Dave Wassel. “Retrieving unconscious victims is no easy task. Great job to the crew as always.” 

Early reports suggest Yoon also suffered a broken back although Yoon’s filmmaker pal, the Soul Queen Andrew Kidman, tells me he got a text from Yoon yesterday.

He def went to hospital but got out the next day,” said Kidman, who featured Yoon in his gorgeous, if wildly slow-moving film Spirit of Akasha, a sequel of sorts to Morning of the Earth and which premiered at the Sydney Opera House.

Kidman told Yoon’s story in Surfer eight years back.

The passage below details Yoon’s first taste of Jaws. 

In the winter of 2011, Korean-Australian shaper Sam Yoon was on the island of Kauai, living out of his van with his wife, Ecco, and their two young children, Moana and Reno. One day a text came through from Jaws paddle-in pioneer Lyle Carlson. “Friday Jaws” was all it said.

Two days later, Yoon and his family were making camp on a bluff in an abandoned pineapple field that overlooks Jaws’ fabled reef. “It was night and we could hear the wave breaking,” Yoon recalls. “The whole family was nervous. Ecco knew I was planning to surf, and the kids didn’t know what was happening, but they could feel how tense we both were.”

Before dawn the next day, Yoon made his way across the lava boulders that cradle Pe’ahi. He was carrying a heavy single-fin gun he’d shaped in his backyard in Tugun, Queensland. He watched as another surfer picked his way across the rocks and jumped off, and then Yoon hurriedly followed. “I didn’t want to wait and watch,” Yoon explains. “I think the longer you watch, the more scared you get.”

The ocean was black and the channel was empty when Yoon caught his first wave. “I couldn’t see anything,” says Yoon. “It was like an old television slowly coming on when I started to make out the wave. I just hoped I would make the drop. My whole body was shaking. It was like surfing a wave in my dreams.”

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