Surf fight
"This idea that passivity and non-violence is the highest form of morality is simply naive. The force of pressure has always helped us become stronger men. Nature will always test men, and if men want to thrive, they must face it and push it back."

Surf enforcers slam woke surf clothing brand for its condemnation of old-school kook-slaps!

“The etiquette that (barely) exists today was hammered out by your predecessors. Classic entitled millennial chicken sh*t!”

Surfcasual is a clothing label that was founded a couple of years ago on the back of a very unusual premise: as a bulwark against aggression in surfing. 

“Inspired by the endless chase of perfect waves in multiple destinations around the world, Surfcasual was founded and officially launched in 2022 after an unforgettable surf trip to Sri Lanka back in 2019,” goes the Our Story spiel. 

“As passionate surfers ourselves, we have firsthand experience of the negative impact that aggression can have on the surfing community. It takes away from the true essence of riding the waves—the freedom, the connection with nature, and the camaraderie among fellow surfers.

“Our aim is to raise awareness about reducing aggressiveness in the lineup and to advocate for a community where surfers of all levels, whether beginners, casual riders, or intermediate, share the awesomeness we experience on our boards, learn and apply the principles of surfing etiquette while showing respect to each other, and create a surfing culture that thrives on positivity, happiness, and leaves toxic behavior behind.” 

Yeah, well, they got a little pushback on a reel from old school heads a few weeks back when they ran with a vid of a couple of kooks pushing their chests out at each other, tossing a board etc. 

 

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The reel, which has been viewed almost nine million times, is accompanied by Surfcasual’s anti-violence ethos. 

It’s time to promote accountability and respect in the lineup — qualities that every surfer should embrace. Sadly only a select few follow these principles and truly understand the pure excitement and positive energy that surfing can bring. Surfcasual is an alternative surf community for those who choose to be accountable, responsible and respectful in the lineup through empathetic and effective communication.

Violence and aggressive behavior have no place in the surf community. Join the movement and become a member today.

Greg Webber, who is sixty-three and the shaper who made concaves his own personal fiefdom, beginning in the late eighties, was among the first to pile on.

“What a load of politically correct rubbish,” wrote Webber.

Another, Mittenscoops, wrote:

“These conflicts have limits and help to produce better and more reflecting men. This idea that passivity and non-violence is the highest form of morality is simply naive. The force of pressure has always helped us become stronger men. Nature will always test men, and if men want to thrive, they must face it and push it back. In a world where most of nature is conquered, it’s important to encounter it in play. It builds respect for danger and restraint in the person. Without lessons like this, a man will be protected too far, to the point that he will never see the far bigger and worse moral failings that result in atrocities. It’s easier to see this kind of social evolution in the ways moms and dads raise their kids. Over protection absolutely RUINS children. Moms do far too much of it. So when fathers are largely absent, that coddling results in unrestrained, amoral violence like in gangs or state committed atrocities as seen last century in Germany, Russia, and China.”

And, more:

“All these dopes winjing about getting shit just don’t have respect. If you’re an open gym bball player with no vert and a dad bod would you expect to be welcomed onto a court with nba players fuck no, get your ass in shape learn the craft and etiquette and work your way up.”

“This is a very dangerous sport and people who drop in on me or those who haphazardly roll into the lineup and go over the falls without a leash while kids are on the inside or you are paddling out need to be held to account. They are dangerous. It is our job to communicate to them and sometimes when you’re in danger and narrowly escape another visit to the UC, you have to raise your voice to get their attention to move down the beach or go take a lesson. We are animals, we got hair on us. Surfing is primal. Learn how to surf or get out of the way or someone’s going to yell at you. Try going to the North Shore and tell the boys to ‘relax’.”

“From enforcer to enforcer regulation is a must in waves of consecuence. The wave in this clip doesn’t show the real danger of surfing in line ups out of your league. You just don’t put only yourself in danger but everyone around you, and yes trying to help someone in a critical situation endangers that person as well. Sadly this last decade everyone has something to say and everyone feels entitled to do as they please and worst of all everyone is kind of a news reporter now with your cams in your phone and your profiles in social media. So bottom line is “be good, get good or get out” no questions asked no quarter given. And if you feel after some time you can handle waves of consecuence you’re welcome as long as you respect the pecking order of the line up. Sorry boys and girls but you got to pay if you want to play. Respect the ones before you and pave a solid road for those that follow after you. Respect and love, if you don’t respect yourself and others you are incapable of love. This might sound stupid and whatever for some people but it’s not fun to save some kook who almost killed him/herself and almost hurt someone in the way. Earn your stripes, learn to read the line up, ask old timers for some advice and play safely. Much love from Perú!”

And on and on and on!

Surfing ain’t that serious, boys! Or maybe it is?

Where do you stand? For, against, reformed for or reformed against?

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Maui hellboy describes nightmare tumble after Jaws wipeout goes viral!

"Casual whiplash."

The wipeout and kickout are two of the most beloved surfing moves to those who don’t participate in this our sport of kings. But who could forget the “Image of the Games” wherein one Gabriel Medina kicked out of a Teahupo’o wave and pointed a finger to the sky during this past summer’s Paris Olympiad? The snap raced around the world, appearing on newspaper front pages and garnering billions upon billions of views and likes and shares etc.

Very cool.

But now, and certainly cooler, we have underground Maui charger Ty Simpson-Kane wiping out on a Jaws beast and going viral himself.

The 20-year-old was out at the big wave magnet on the day of the Eddie, though according to Hawaii News Now, had no idea that he himself was about to go viral.

The sun was shining, Hawaiian honeycreepers chirping, and Simpson-Kane swinging on a bomb before cartwheeling down its face.

But how did this nightmare feel?

The young man describes for all of us, sharing, “It’s almost as if you’re doing 80 in your car on the highway and then hitting a brick wall. And when I hit the water, it knocked the wind out of me, so I was doing those cartwheels down the face of the wave with no air in my lungs.”

Once finished rag-dolling, he pulled his rip cord and shot to the surface, suffering what he described as “casual whiplash.”

Now, while most would have called it a day after taking such a beating, Simpson-Kane made his way back out into the lineup and continued to surf until he wrangled a beast and rode to completion. But how did he find the verve? “I like to just go into the darkest part of my brain and just shut everything off,” he says.

A BeachGrit commenter in the making.

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Surfer Lance Appleby, killed by a Great White shark in South Australia
Surfer Lance Appleby, killed by a Great White shark in South Australia, the fourth fatality in the region in less than two years.

“Surfing over” in South Australia, says expert, as Great White population explodes

"Great Whites are back to pre-white man biomass – the breeding biomass is strong and the numbers have increased."

The death of Streaky Bay local Lance Appleby, killed by a Great White shark, the fourth fatal attack on a surfer by a White in less than two years, has ended surfing on South Australia’s west coast, at least according to one of its most prominent fishermen and surfers. 

Jeff Schmucker, who is fifty-eight, and the daddy of local ripper Josiah Schmucker, both of ‘em famous for their tow-in exploits, has told the Australian Associated Press the population of Great White sharks has “exploded” and has made surfing a risk no one should take. 

“Get yourself a jet ski and start tow surfing,” Schmucker said. “Other than that, stop surfing on the west coast of South Australia, period – the next one could be this afternoon… My kids are surfing up at Cactus (Beach, near Penong) at the moment and it’s like, ‘Get the fuck out of the water and start thinking about doing something else’, because this is over here.”

Lance’s death at Granites yesterday follows the killing of Todd Gendle at the same spot last October, of fifteen-year-old Khai Cowley at Ethels last December and school teacher Simon Baccanello at Elliston last May.

“I think Great Whites are back to pre-white man biomass – the breeding biomass is strong and the numbers have increased,” said Schmucker.

After a Great White killed Todd Gendle I called Schmucker who told me, “I fucken feel for the kids. That bothers me, kids upset. There were fifteen people within twenty, thirty, forty metres. Big splash, lots of blood, the whole bit.”

In a wild series of coincidences, Schmucker’s two paramedic daughters were also about to paddle out at the sites of two other Great White attacks (a non-fatal hit on Kangaroo Island in 2020) and the fatal hit on Elliston school teacher Simon Baccanello at Walker Rocks.

On Kangaroo Island, his daughter helped get the wounded surfer to an ambulance; at Elliston, his other daughter watched helplessly from the rocks. 

Schmucker said each new attack “inflames or reignites everyone’s emotions and experiences, a new fear coming over you.”

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Author (pictured) running full speed.
Author (pictured) running full speed.

Question: When was the last time you sprinted at maximum full speed?

On your marks, get set...

The year is, officially, new and folk around the globe re-evaluating lives, attempting to adjust bad behaviors, generally clean up and get back to a “right track.” But have you made resolutions of your own to begin this 2025? Maybe a change in diet? A concerted effort cut screen time? A renewed commitment to physical fitness?

Regarding the latter, what is your exercise of choice? Swimming? Gym attendance? Running?

And regarding the latter, once more, when was the last time you sprinted at full maximum speed?

It’s a funny and/or sad that growing older robs us of both occasion and desire to really let the governor off and go all out. As children, sprinting like the wind is as natural as it is necessary. We run fast to test our mettle against peers, run fast because Arnold schwarzenegger created the Presidential Fitness Challenge and we had to, run fast because sports, getting chased, chasing etc. But as adults all that disappears and we are only left with a vague memory of how quickly our legs can move.

Until, that is, the ice cream truck comes a’ comin.

On today’s very first show of 2025, the 301st, David Lee Scales and I got the funniest note from a fellow fifty-ish-year-old Ventura, California-based surfer who had an incredible story of a dash n crash he recently took. As he tells it, he was working on a boat when he heard the iconic jingle of an ice-cream truck. He decided to indulge, put down his tools, and marched outside where he saw two younger men ahead of him. He thought, “Not today…” and decided to whiz full throttle. He started pumping those legs and things were looking good as he sped past them but then, as things happen when adults run at full speed, his toe nipped a bit of metal, his upper body continued while his legs strained to catch up before the inevitable washout.

He was injured enough to be forced out of the lineup for a month, though did get his chocolate malt. The whole business made me think, though, about making sprinting my New Year’s Resolution.

But who, here, would win a footrace?

What if there was money on the line and also enough to pay for hip replacements, knee surgeries, foot amputations etc.?

While you are thinking you can enjoy episode 301.

An instant classic.

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Beloved surf photographer Jimmy Wilson captures day of days at secret San Diego heavy wave

Caity Simmers, Ollie Kurtz and more!

To know James “Jimmicane” Wilson is to love him. The steely-eyed surf photographer/videographer transplanted in greater North County San Diego from his home in Jacksonville, Florida some decade-plus ago, becoming a staple on the left coast and in our surfing world. Professional and professional-adjacent surfers, heading out into the wilds and needing documentation, call him first. Brands or properties needing true surf grit humbly bend knees and beg his opinion.

Wilson is not afraid to tell it like it is while also holding to an old-school surf omerta. Don’t blow out the secret spots, don’t stupidly and wrongly describe airs, know your swell charts, where to be, when to go etc. and, thus, knew exactly where to be and when to go when California’s mega-swell hit some days before Christmas morning.

The secret big wave spot, somewhere north of the California-Mexico border and south of Ventura, lit up like a boat parade and was greeted by a who’s who of surf stars including, but not limited to, Caity Simmers.

Training his lens upon the action, whilst providing commentary, Wilson deftly captures the day of days, sharing, “I originally wanted to combine everything from this swell into a single video, but ultimately ended up cutting out stuff from the other spots. Might post some stuff from ______ another time because there was one pretty good session I filmed. These two days (filmed 12/22/2024 and 12/24/2024) came close to rivaling last year’s conditions, but we were left with some long lulls, and less than ideal weather/lighting. For a solid period of time on the second day, I couldn’t see if waves were being ridden at all – it was that foggy.”

And now it is time for you, dear reader, to engage in some self-reflection. If you were on the beach with board, would you have paddled, made excuses for why not paddling or simply admitted defeat?

Heavy.

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