And here's a little song by my ol' buddy Shaun Tomson,
real good surfer, real pretty face.
Surf icon Shaun Tomson enrages Elon Musk
haters further after writing song to heal left-right divide
By Derek Rielly
Inventor of the climb-and-drop method of tuberiding
drives the anti-Musk crowd nuts…again!
Two days ago we welcomed news thatsurf icon ShaunTomsonhad set off leftists worldwide with his fulsome praise of
tech entrepreneur Elon Musk, who is also, like Tomson, a
South African.
Elon Musk haters quickly pounced on Tomson’s post.
For sure is a futurist, but he is also the one is also the
one who spent words to support Alternative für Deutschland (AfD
extreme right party, fascist/nazist) in Germany. Here in Europe the
far right is growing, also in Italy, and this must be fought if we
do not want history to repeat.
he’s destroying democracy in American…buying politicians to
do his bidding. I wonder would you be ok with him doing that to
your country…a place he left to become a US citizen
paving the road to dystopia. one crypto coin at a time.
there’s nothing futuristic about a return to the late nineteenth
century robber baron age. just because it looks futuristic doesn’t
mean it is. a futurist is more like buckminster fuller or frank
lloyd wright. musk is just a greedy douche. as long as humans don’t
ride on his spaceships, designed and engineered by others with lack
of attention to the kind of process required for man rated
spaceflight, at least no one will get killed.
Shaun Tomson, who turns seventy this year, was off grid with his
wife Carla when the sparks flew, and only saw the flames late
yesterday when he quickly posted on Facebook.
“What a surprise about my last Elon Musk post – so much negative
sentiment about this futurist-like him or hate him, you better take
note of him,” Tomson wrote. “My mission is to spread a positive
wave of hope and purpose around the world and bring people together
through the Surfer’s Code so I was surprised with the
darkness.”
And, then, Tomson delivered the sort of coupe de grace he used
to reserve for his tour competitors.
The song, Take Me Home, although
not to be confused with the John Denver classic, is exhilarating
and audacious. I defy the listener to come away with a mind
unchanged.
And, yet, amid a sea of converts, all praising Shaun Tomson’s
positivity, a few staunch holdouts.
A man who hordes wealth at the expense of the poor and
aligns himself with the worst of us is no role model for the future
of our planet.
if dystopia is the future then musk is a futurist.
go back to sa and stay out of US politics
are you now going to normalize his Hail Hitler salute?
Sounds to me like you are being selective in where you want to seek
your information. Are you normalizing his “freedom of speech”
approach on his Social Media platform? Where you can’t criticize
him but you can spread hate speech, misogyny, and racism?
Good luck with your soul, Shaun. What a disappointment you
turned out to be.
Did song convert you?
Do you now believe Elon Musk is a man of infinite heart or do
you believe he still dresses his foulness up in perfume and
wit?
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Molly’s not a dainty, elegant surfer. She’s at her best
riding big barrels and smashing massive sections. It’s been some
time since women’s surfing has seen anyone like her, if ever. |
Photo: @wsl
Women surfers prepare for historic
bar-raising at Hawaii’s Pipeline!
By Jen See
Are you just so super excited for professional
surfing to begin again? You’re not. Well. Ready or not, it’s going
to happen…
The waiting period for the 2025 Lexus Pipe Pro opens on
Monday.
Are you ready?
Are you just so super excited for professional surfing to begin
again?
You’re not. Well. Ready or not, it’s going to happen, so you
might as well play along. What else do you have to do? I need to go
surfing and do laundry, but even I will be showing up to watch the
women’s heats at Pipe this year. And you should, too.
In 2024, the women significantly elevated their performance at
Pipe. Caity Simmers,
Molly Picklum, and
Bettylou Sakura were among the stand-outs on last year’s finals
day, which arguably stands as one of the best ever single days of
competition in women’s surfing. Now add talented barrel-wrangler
Erin Brooks and Teahupo’o dancer Vahine Fierro to the mix. It’s
going to be lit, is what I’m saying.
In a sure sign of the sport’s progression, I really can’t pick a
single favorite here for you. There’s no longer just one or two
women who can win at Pipe. And it’s only going to get better from
here.
Let’s take a look at the draw and see what’s up. In the absence
of any idea what the forecast is, I’m going to assume for this
discussion that Pipe is going to do Pipe stuff, because it’s more
interesting. Check local listings for details. You can get your heat draw
here.
Nadia Erostarbe. An injury replacement for the
absent Johanne Defay, Nadia’s most notable result so far is her
quarterfinal finish at the Paris Olympics in small Teahupo’o. In
2024, she finished the Challengers Series in sixth. Close, but not
close enough. She’s a goofyfoot who grew up surfing windy beach
breaks in the Basque Country. I’ll confess I’m drawing a complete
blank on her Olympic heats, but her practice clips at Tahiti looked
alright. Can she transfer that knowledge to Pipe? I guess it’s
possible, but more likely, she goes down in an early round to one
of the higher seeds.
Sally Fitzgibbons. A perennial battler with a
smile on her face, Sal is back on Tour for 2025. She has called for
an expansion of the women’s Tour, and rightly, the WSL plans to
move to a 24-woman draw in 2026. In recent years, Sal has added
more progression to her surfing, but it hasn’t been enough to keep
her on Tour. It’s possible that this year will be different, but
the more years that pass, the more women crowd up behind her. I
don’t expect Sal to do huge things at Pipe. If she makes the cut
this time around, it’ll be on the strength of her consistency
through the rest of the calendar.
Isabella Nichols. A stylish regular foot,
Isabella has fallen off Tour twice now, and scrapped her way back
on. She’s a good point and beach break surfer, but hasn’t shown
especially well at Pipe. At least, not yet. Last year, she went out
early with a ninth. She’ll be alright in happy-sized Backdoor, but
I wouldn’t expect to see her make it past any of the hitters if the
surf really turns on. Surprises are always possible, but more
likely, she’ll be looking down the calendar to joints like El Sal,
the Gold Coast, and Margaret River, which she won in 2022.
Luana Silva. Currently 20 years old, Luana is
back on Tour after missing the cut last year and receiving a
wildcard when Steph decided not to compete this year. In fact,
Luana’s fallen off Tour twice now with a sea of ninths in her
results. In 2024, she made it through the small days to the
quarters at Pipe, but she wasn’t ready for the size on finals day.
She lost to Brisa Hennessey with a heat score of .97. Recently,
Luana won the WSL world junior championship in the Philippines and
she has nice style frontside. She’ll be hoping for a forecast on
the small side at Pipe and looking ahead to slide over the cut
line.
Lakey Peterson. In 2024, Lakey missed the cut
after a string of early exits. Many of those defeats came in close
heats, and after more than ten years on Tour, it was a bit of a
comedown for her, to say the least. Now she’s back with a wildcard
for the first seven events and a new coach in Leandro Dora. From
her clips on Instagram, Lakey’s been throwing some heavy open face
turns lately and she’s looking good on that front. She’s the first
to say she doesn’t like big surf, but she’s plenty capable at
playful-sized Backdoor. Lakey won’t be hoping to win at Pipe, but
if she can score a few points to stave off the cut, I’m pretty sure
she’ll go home happy.
Caroline Marks. Last year, Caroline made it to
finals day at Pipe, it’s true. When the surf was firing, though,
she didn’t go. She lost to Bettylou with a pair of three’s. Against
Brisa in the semis at the Shiseido Tahiti Pro, she lost with a heat
score of 3.67. But she won Olympic gold at Teahupo’o, you will be
saying. Yes, yes she did. Cast your mind back to the size of the
waves that day, and you’ll recall that it was small. From the
opening event at Pipe, Caroline has lots of time to climb the
rankings and she knows it. There’s no real incentive for her to
risk it all on a bigger day and with an Olympic medal and a world
title in her trophy case, she has nothing to prove. But if you’ve
dedicated your whole damn life to surfing, why wouldn’t you want to
get barreled on a good day at Pipe? I don’t pretend to know the
answer to that one.
Bella Kenworthy. A new girl on Tour, Bella was
sponsored for park skateboarding before switching to surfing full
time. A few years back, she released a punk-infused edit that went
hard. The internet refused to show it to me again, but I can tell
you that Bella’s a ripper. Turns, airs, barrels — she’s the full
deck of cards. In her first attempt at the Challengers, she came up
short, but this time around, Bella did well enough to skip the
final event and head to Indo. I like her life choices. In a
generation stacked with talent, Bella’s stand-out characteristic is
her strength and power. For now, the missing ingredient is simply
experience. She’s 18, and it’s her first year on Tour, sure, but
she has the capacity to upset expectations.
Gabriela Bryan. It’s surprising to me that
Gabriela doesn’t have better results at Pipe. A Hawaiian, she’s
strong as fuck. I’m pretty sure some of her turns register on the
Richter scale. An impressively consistent surfer, she’s never
missed the cut since she qualified in 2022. But Pipe seems to
confound her. In her time on Tour she’s had two ninths and one
quarterfinal finish. Last year, she narrowly lost to Brisa, so it’s
possible that she has more to give than she’s shown so far.
Honestly, I’d love to see it. She seems to have all the other
elements in place to be a hitter on Tour — and the more women
crowding the top, the more interesting the show will be.
Tyler Wright. The main memory I have of Tyler
at Pipe comes from 2023, I believe, when she pulled into a scorcher
at Backdoor. She won the first women’s edition of Pipe after going
to turns in the final, and she’s also finished second and third,
relying mostly on going right. While she’s steadily improved her
performances in barreling lefts, Tyler still sits just outside the
top tier at Pipe. It’s possible she’ll surprise me this year. Maybe
she sneaked off to Indo for a month and went left every day. The
challenge for Tyler is similar to that for Sal: The younger women
are coming for her. She’d better get it while she can.
Sawyer Lindblad. Now in her second year on
Tour, Sawyer has a wicked backhand. You’ll probably also remember
her goofy interference at Sunset, where she paddled pretty much
straight through the pocket like a true Trestles grom. Despite this
mishap, Sawyer made the cut and surfed two finals, at Margaret
River and Brazil. Her Pipe record isn’t stellar with a ninth-place
finish after losing to Bettylou. but a quarterfinal finish at
Tahiti suggests she has more to give. Still just 19, Sawyer grew up
surfing with Caity and Bella, and she did trips with both women
over the off-season. It’s possible I’ve ranked her too high here,
but she’s part of the new school and I like her trajectory so
far.
Brisa Hennessy. These next two women in the
ranking surprised me last season. Both Brisa and Tati significantly
upped their game and it was fun to watch them do it. I would still
rate them both below the top women in heaving lefts, but I’m not
counting out continued surprises. Brisa’s break-out performance at
the Shiseido Tahiti Pro, where she lost in the final to Vahine.
Yes, she had a relatively easy draw to get there, but she went for
it anyway. I’m pushing her up the rankings here in the hope that
she brings that same fearless attitude and solid skills to Pipe
this year.
Tati Weston-Webb. Until last year, I thought of
Tati as the girl who went straight in barreling lefts. She is no
longer that girl. Against Vahine in the semis at the Tahiti Pro,
she scored a perfect ten in intimidating Teahupo’o. That was
fucking sick. Tati narrowly lost that heat, but it served to banish
forever the idea that she can’t surf barrels. Like Brisa, it was a
break-out performance and I’m putting her up here near the
favorites for Pipe on the strength of it. I don’t think she can get
past the best women, but she came close to beating Vahine, so I’m
not counting her out.
Moana Jones Wong. Local girl Moana won the
second edition of women’s Pipe with a smooth, swooping style. At
the time, most of the draw was still not sure what to do with Pipe.
Now they know. Over the past few years, Moana has scored some solid
ones in free surf sessions and at the Da Hui Shoot Out. She is
still one of the best women surfers at Pipe, and one of the select
few women who can win if it turns on. Last year, she lost early to
Caroline in small waves, so she missed out on the finals day shack
fest. Can she still match the top women on Tour? That’s an open
question and thanks to the wildcard, she has an opportunity to
answer it. She meets Caity in round 1.
Vahine Fierro. The queen of Teahupo’o, Vahine
surfs her home break with flawless grace. In the past, Vahine
didn’t always make smart choices in her heats, likely due to
inexperience. Heat surfing is a whole thing, as we all know. She’s
improved, and no doubt the grind of both the Challengers and the
Olympic qualifying process helped with that. As she showed in her
heat for the ages against Tati, Vahine can deliver under pressure
now. Does her skill at Teahupo’o translate to Pipe? I’m going with
yes, but it’s perhaps the one weakness she brings to the table.
Bettylou Sakura Johnson. I’ll be honest, I did
not at all expect Bettylou to be one of the stand-outs at Pipe last
year. She came close to winning the semifinal against Molly in
legit good Pipe and I did not see that coming at all. That’s the
heat when Molly scored a perfect ten, and Bettylou came within .30
points of beating her. Though she was stronger at Backdoor,
Bettylou put on a fierce, hard-charging performance. Similar to
last year, she has not posted any clips, but it’s impossible to
imagine she isn’t out there putting in the work. I doubt last year
was a fluke, so I’d expect to see her go deep in the draw and
rattle a few cages. Her opening round is stacked: Bettylou, Molly,
and Vahine all meet in round 1.
Erin Brooks. The hype around Erin Brooks who
just now is starting her first year on Tour is dizzying. What is it
about her, out of all the young, talented women coming into surfing
right now, that has created such a fevered response? I’m not
actually quite sure what to make of it, honestly. In a previous
generation, the Texas-born surfer would likely have been a gymnast.
She has the compact, explosive strength the sport requires and that
she is now readily applying to surfing. Erin’s grown up in Hawai’i
and is already one of the best barrel riders in women’s surfing.
Caity and Molly have the edge in experience. Let’s see if it’s
enough. Erin meets Gabriela and Sawyer in the opening round.
Caity “for the fucking girls” Simmers. The
current world champion, Caity loves a good barrel. I think we all
know that by now. Caity’s a rare talent and she won last year’s
edition of Pipe by beating Molly in the final. It was a
wave-starved heat, which left open the question of just how far the
top two women can go. In truth, the daylight between Caity and
Molly at Pipe — and potentially Erin, too — is so slim as to be
non-existent. That might sound like a candy-ass take, but it’s
true. Let’s see just how much farther they can push women’s surfing
at Pipe. It feels like they’re just getting started.
Molly Picklum. I watched Molly’s heat against
Bettylou live and when I saw her perfect ten, I actually yelled at
the screen. That’s a fucking ten all day! I’m sure my neighbors
enjoyed it. I gave Molly the top spot here on the strength of that
wave and her full-speed ahead willingness to charge at Pipe.
Molly’s not a dainty, elegant surfer. She’s at her best riding big
barrels and smashing massive sections. It’s been some time since
women’s surfing has seen anyone like her, if ever. She came up
short in the final against Caity last year, and I can’t help but
think she’d like revenge.
n
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Chouinard (right) thinking big thoughts.
Popular extreme sport podcast performs deep
dive on Patagonia’s decision to make ‘Earth’ company’s only
shareholder!
By Chas Smith
Is this really a critical moment in the history of
capitalism, as Patagonia believe?
Patagonia, the clothing, equipment, surfboard
and food retailer, is certainly unique in our extreme sporting
world. Founded by French-Canadian rock climber Yvon Chouinard in
1973, the brand’s mission has long been “earth friendly.” While not
appealing to all, the notable Derek Rielly
bemoaning the company’s “ritual use of dull browns,
the lingering smell of piety, the full silhouettes suited to the
fashionably retarded,” Patagonia certainly does spark conversation
and especially when, in 2022, “Earth” became its only
shareholder.
Now in a must-listen three part series, the erudite Matt Barr of
the popular Looking Sideways podcast has taken a deep dive in The
Announcement.
“Going purpose, not going public.”
Patagonia’s September 2022 decisions to make ‘Earth’ the
company’s only shareholder was huge news, particularly in the
worlds of climate activism, business, philanthropy, the outdoors,
and action sports.
Here was the most influential company in the outdoor world,
and one of the most influential businesses on the planet per se,
relinquishing control of their profits for the greater
good.
But what did this actually mean? Why did the company do it?
How was the decision made? Who was involved? And is this really a critical moment in the history of
capitalism, as Patagonia believe?
Come enjoy part one here.
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Justin Baldoni (pictured) man enough.
Feminist Justin Baldoni takes solace in
surf whilst vindictively suing Blake Lively for making fun of his
nose
By Chas Smith
Multitasking.
The rise of the male feminist has been one of
the brighter bits of the past few years. Men who have thrown off
outdated shackles and embraced no macho, anti-toxicity, living,
laughing, loving. Chief amongst them, of course, is the actor and
director Justin Baldoni.
The raven-haired 40-year-old has hosted a podcast about
challenging rigid gender roles and just directed the film It Ends
With Us which explores the themes of domestic violence and
emotional abuse.
“See if you can use the same qualities that you feel make you a
man to go deeper,” he declared in a now-famous TED talk on
redefining masculinity, continuing, “Your strength, your bravery,
your toughness: Are you brave enough to be vulnerable? Are you
strong enough to be sensitive? Are you confident enough to listen
to the women in your life?”
Well, his co-star Blake Lively sued him for “a
litany of sexist misdeeds, including pressuring her to be fully
nude in a scene, making sexual comments about her clothing,
improvising sexual behavior in front of the camera, and telling her
about his pornography addiction.”
He was strong enough to be sensitive and sue her right back for
for making fun of his nose. People Magazine
sharing, “In Baldoni’s $400 million lawsuit, which he
filed against Lively, her husband Ryan Reynolds, their publicist
Leslie Sloane and Sloane’s PR firm Vision PR, Inc in the Southern
District of New York on Thursday, Jan. 16, attorneys for Baldoni,
40, claimed that Lively, 37, joked that Baldoni ‘should get plastic
surgery’ while filming a scene for the movie.”
While you’d be forgiven for thinking that beating a woman up in
the court of public opinion and also the real court might be overly
exhausting, Baldoni is brave enough to be vulnerable and is
currently in Maui learning how to surf.
TMZ is
reporting he is “all smiles after hitting the ocean in
Maui, Hawaii, beaming and carrying a big green surfboard while on
vacation with his family.” Though he apparently ditched his family
for some time with the boys.
“We’re told Justin joined a group of dudes,” the celebrity new
source continued, “including a couple surf instructors and another
companion — for a lesson at Ukumehame Beach Park Monday.”
More than one surf instructor?
Very cool.
You can’t stop the waves, but you can learn to surf, as they
say.
But back to you. If you were suing a woman for being mean about
your appearance whilst savaging her in the press, would you have
the energy to surf a big green surfboard?
Discuss.
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Kelly Slater wrote to Gabeira, "You are
unprepared. You are endangering people around you when they have to
go in and rescue in such scenarios. I think if you continue to
do what you’re doing, you’re gonna die. So I highly suggest you
stop."
Big-wave surfer Maya Gabeira, dubbed a
public menace by Laird Hamilton and Kelly Slater, quits
professional surfing
By Derek Rielly
"If you continue to do what you’re doing, you’re
gonna die. So I highly suggest you stop," said Kelly Slater.
The Brazilian big-wave chaser Maya Gabeira, famous for
being advised by Kelly Slater andLaird Hamiltonto quit
big-wave surfing before she or someone close to her died,
has officially quit competitive surfing.
The creator of the K2 Big-Wave Challenge and, more recently, the
Big Wave Challenge, Bill Sharp, reported the news on Instagram.
“Congratulations to @maya on her retirement from competitive big
wave surfing. She broke barriers and overcame adversity like no one
else in the game. Thank you Maya Gabeira for your many
contributions to the sport!”
In a now famous DM to Maya Gabeira from Kelly Slater he
wrote,
‘You are unprepared. You are endangering people around you when
they have to go in and rescue in such scenarios. I think if
you continue to do what you’re doing, you’re gonna die. So I highly
suggest you stop.’
When she got her stilt snapped at Nazaré and had to be revived
on the beach, Laird said she “didn’t have the skill to be surfing
in those conditions.”
After the leg break and temp drowning at Nazaré, I interviewed
Gabeira shortly after she got out of hozzy.
Reprinted below if you’ve got time to kill and you want to read
an 11-year-old interview.
Can you describe for me the jam y’got in… Yeah,
Carlos towed me into a really nice big left and on the third bump I
reckon I broke my ankle. When I fell that wipeout was ok. It was a
little bit of a hold-down. The second one was pretty strong and the
third one I think I was almost on the shorebreak and that was when
the problems started because it was really strong. It hit me on my
chest and it blew out my life jacket and it really hurt me. I went
down, down, down underwater with no air and seeing black. I was
basically going to black-out and somehow I made it up but when I
hit the surface everything went white so I didn’t have any vision.
But from what I saw on the footage, Carlos came twice to grab me
but I had no movement or reaction. Finally he yelled at me to grab
the rope and I grabbed the rope and I think that was my last little
bit of energy to get me maybe five or 10 feet away from the current
that was taking me into the rocks. But because I was being dragged
my face was underwater. I was pretty much blacked-out by then and
then my hand let go of the rope. From what I saw of the footage I
was unconscious. A couple of waves went over me and Carlos found me
again and I was closer to the shore so he jumped off the ski and
dragged me to the shore and CPR’d me and…uh… thank God he brought
me back to life.
What’s your first memory after being revived?
Faces. Just people and remembering that I had almost drowned and
where I was and a lot of water, water, water. And I was throwing
up. I mean, it took a long time in my brain to come back and for me
to open my eyes but as soon as I did I kinda knew where I was
because it was so salty and it was so wet. I just could tell I had
just drowned.
And then what happened? Were you on the sand? I
was on the sand. I was starting to come back to life and a huge
surge, huge water, washed everyone again. Some guys held onto me,
Carlos and another guy. A couple of cars got washed away. It was
pretty hectic but they held onto me and then after that they CPR’d
me again, I think.
Do you remember being in the ambulance? As soon as I opened my eyes
I remember everything. Red Bull, who were on the cliff, called the
fire station so the firemen came and grabbed me.
What were you thinking about in
hospital? (Maya laughs in the breeziest and most
surprising manner) That I was just lucky to be alive and I was
lucky I train as much as I do and that I have the best partner in
the world and that our efforts at the end of the day weren’t
perfect but sometimes we make mistakes. But in the very end, we
were able to save my life. And I think that’s what matters.
What mistakes did you make? How will you hit
big waves next time after this experience? I’ll definitely use a
different life jacket because I don’t want my life jacket to blow
out. I don’t want to get 70-foot shorebreak waves on my head with
no life jacket. Also, to have a second ski so everything’s not on
Carlos’ hands because that’s a big responsibility if you’re dealing
with 80-foot waves on a shorebreak. If everything you’ve got is one
ski, even though he wants to save me as much as he wants, he can’t
lose the ski. So there’s two worries there. If you have a second
ski, you can risk a little more when the rescue happens. Other than
that, I broke my leg on the wave, I just did my very best to get as
close to the shore as I could so I could get rescued by him and
hope to get CPR’d on the beach.
What’s it feel like when your leg gets busted by a wave? (Laughs!)
Oh, I don’t even realise my leg was broken until later on.
(Laughs!) My life was way more important! My lungs were way sorer
than that!
Can you describe what it’s like to drown? It’s
really tough. But it gets peaceful when you black out. When you’re
gone, you’re gone. And I knew before I was gone I knew that the
only thing I could do was to try my very hardest to get as close as
I could to the shore so Carlos could do his part. And I did my part
and he did his part. That’s how we work. I try my best and when he
sees me he’ll make sure he doesn’t lose my body.
It’s a high-stakes game, ain’t it… Yeah, but
that’s big-wave surfing when it’s 80-feet in the shorebreak, a
beach break.
You had another near-death thang at Teahupoo,
yeah? Um, to be honest, I must put down that experience a
little bit after this one. I don’t think it was that bad…
But only with the benefit of hindsight… Yeah, I
think this one was way more serious. People say I was unconscious
at Teahupoo, and I wasn’t at all, I told everyone I wasn’t, but a
lot of people claim that I was unconscious and it was a lie. But
this time… I was unconscious.
Big-wave wrangling is an extraordinary biz… You
know, it’s a risk when you’re willing to surf waves like that and
you don’t have two people to rescue you, you only have one. I was
by myself on 70, 80-foot waves for over 10 minutes. And it’s very
very hard to survive with no life jacket.