Kai Lenny and best friend Mark Zuckerberg.
"He is a champion because he has the biggest social media network and is arguably one of the most powerful humans on Earth. He can control communication and knowledge and all these sort of things," says Kai Lenny.

Kai Lenny reveals backlash from friendship with “socially awkward” Mark Zuckerberg

“People were writing me off and giving me grief.”

New Yorker Justin Jay is a master portraitist who works with a Nikon film camera, an ancient manual-focus 35mm prime affixed to the beak, and made his name shooting superstars like P.Diddy, pre-incarceration, Jay Z and Outkast. 

A few years back he released an epic hard-cover book of a decade shooting the North Shore. My favourite photo in the lavish tome was this image of Dane Reynolds, excluded from a Bruce Irons make-out session at a North Shore party.

Dane Reynolds excluded from make-out session.
Dane Reynolds excluded from make-out session.

Lately, he has pivoted into podcasting with his show The Plug, with guests including the band MGMT, Tony Hawk, Devendra Banhart, Brian Austin Green and a smattering of surfers and skaters like Mick Fanning and Nathan Florence. 

His latest episode stars Kai Lenny, who almost died last year and only one week after the fairytale election of a devil-may-care, dare-to-dream businessman to the highest office in the land. 

Lenny, who is thirty two, was surfing his foil-board in Maui when he “wiped out” after a back-flip attempt and the board’s hydro-foil slashed his chest, dagger style, and perilously close to his heart.

Of all the things we might remember Kai Lenny for, it’s his friendship with Mark Zuckerberg that excites the most.

Lenny has been described as Robin to Mark Zuckerberg’s Batman and in this episode of The Plug Lenny dives into the minutiae of a beautiful friendship. 

Jay talks about how “notoriously protective” and “catty” surfers can be towards people perceived as outsiders. He references the great Jonah Hill, who took his hazing very well, and pivots into Lenny and Zuck’s strictly platonic friendship.

Excerpts:

“His awkwardness definitely makes people assume things and by hanging out with him I got to know who he really was and he’s actually a really good athlete, surprisingly. He’d run six miles every morning, he’s been doing rowing since college days, you know he runs the biggest social media network on the planet, and I don’t know enough about coding and all the stuff that he really does to make a judgment of that. I think it’s impossible to make everybody happy. But what I know from just hanging out with him personally, it never felt weird at all. I have a lot of respect for anybody who puts themself you know outside their comfort zone and wants to learn something new.”

“Regardless of who you are, i you are one of the top three wealthiest people on the planet everyone wants to tear you down. Everyone praises Michael Jordan or even Kelly Slater, but at the time, when they were at their peak of their powers, everyone’s trying to tear them down, bring them down. And that’s just the nature of being a champion. And in his case, he is a champion because he has the biggest social media network and is arguably one of the most powerful humans on Earth. He can control communication and knowledge and all these sort of things.”

“People were writing me off and giving me grief. But I was, like, this is such a sick opportunity to literally meet maybe one of the most powerful people. What he does with that power over time only history can judge it. I’ve always felt it’s pretty unique opportunity when someone that is so influential across the entire globe wants to meet you. It’s always worth seeing them. You don’t have to disagree with everything. A lot of times people that are at these high positions are expected to be perfect and no one’s perfect…I would be willing to meet any one of our US presidents, even if I didn’t vote for them.”

Essential.

Load Comments

“World’s coolest dictator” heads to White House after hosting lavishly-praised Surf City El Salvador Pro!

Thank you, surfing.

What a run it has been for El Salvador’s popular president, the self-styled “coolest dictator in the world,” Nayib Bukele these past few weeks. First, the “Global Home of Surfing” came to town for the 4th stop on its Championship Tour. World Surf League broadcasters Joe Turpel, Chris Cote, Mitchell Salazar etc. heaped so much praise on the country, so much buoyant language, that the surf fan, listening at home, becoming certainly convinced that El Salvador is a modern utopia where all freedoms are guaranteed and presumed innocence a national treasure.

Well, if holding the surf world in palm of hand is not enough, today, Bukele is in Washington D.C. visiting United States President Donald J. Trump at the White House.

Dressed in a last decade throwback trim navy blue suit at black t-shirt, the 43-year-old signaled his commitment to keeping wrongly deported folk in his glorious mega-jail, responding to a question about the Supreme Court’s ruling the man must be returned by saying, “The question is preposterous. How can I smuggle a terrorist into the United States? I don’t have the power to return him to the United States.”

Bukele praised his country’s turn from the “murder capital of the world” to the “safest country in the world,” a sentiment that was echoed loudly in the World Surf League booth, and while the two world leaders did not get around to discussing Jordy Smith’s impressive win or Isabella Nichols missing her twin sister’s wedding, there is no doubt that it was top of mind.

Back to the lavish tributes ladled onto El Salvador from the World Surf League, do you imagine other potential despots around the globe are taking note?

Might we see the Great Leader Sonbong North Korean Pro on tour next year?

Mitchell Salazar and co. making word monuments to the tidiness and fierce pride of the Democratic People’s Republic?

Here’s to hoping.

Load Comments

Jordy Smith weeps after winning El Salvador grand slam.
Regardless of deteriorating waves, Smith was never going to lose to his countryman upstart. He was clearly emotional after winning not only for the first time in eight years, but for the first time on a board shaped by his father. It was a dream, he said, and at this stage of Smith’s career, it was a feel-good victory for all.

Jordy Smith weeps after winning gruelling El Salvador grand slam on Daddy’s surfboard

"I love you Dad."

The initial days of this El Salvador comp are the first in four years that I’ve failed to report on a day of competition for the men’s WCT.

I’ve reported from the Scottish wilderness, when too much whisky and boisterousness led to a cracked head on the stone wall of the bothy. I slept on a rolled up jacket, saturated with blood that froze overnight, and I still watched pro surfing and reported after hiking out the next day.

I’ve reported from Amsterdam, from the French Alps, from the high-dependency unit of a hospital, from my school desk, from the back of my van, from romantic dalliances here, there and hither and from many, many other places where I had no business or pleasure in watching pro surfing.

But this week, at the beginning of this uninspiring competition, I was on the Hebridean island of Tiree, population 653, and home to Scotland’s first and only professional surfer, Ben Larg.

My accommodation had no wifi, and there was little to no phone signal, but there was blissful sunshine for ten days straight. I foiled in different genres. I bodysurfed. I played with my kids on the beach. I surfed small, glassy waves alone. And I ignored the opening rounds of mucky, brown El Salvador, where men and women eked out mid-threes and called it surfing.

However, something gnawed at me.

Was it residual guilt for letting BG down?

Was I missing pre-Cut drama?

Was I missing Edgard Groggia, a man I couldn’t identify if he did four backside hacks towards me in a supermarket aisle?

No, it couldn’t be any of that.

And then it dawned on me.

El Salvador. Latin America.

Of course! Right then I knew exactly what it was.

I was missing everyone’s favourite cuddly spangloid!

I was missing peak Mitchell Salazaar.

And so, getting home yesterday, I caught up with the quarters, then the Finals Day proper.

“We’re excited, aren’t we, Joe!” Salazaar bubbled, before settling to a lobotomised grin.

Joe Turpel, clearly overwhelmed after days of minding this giant Mexican toddler, ignored him.

Matt McGillivray, the eventual finalist, was in the water against Yago Dora.

According to Salazaar et al, the event victory was fait accompli for Dora. But McGillivray was tack-sharp on the running right handers, disposing of Dora fairly.

There were the obligatory sky-diving and base-jumping references to endure, naturally. And at one point (referencing Dora’s spilt from his father-as-coach), Mitch asked Joe for his advice on fatherhood.

“I’m not a father yet myself,” Salazaar said hopefully, “but you are, Joe. At what point do you need to take a step back?”

Turpel, perhaps wondering what might warrant stepping away from his infant daughter, graciously ignored Salazaar again.

Instead, Joe deferred to what he knew, that being commentary on live surfing that really only reveals its ridiculousness when you pause for a moment to break it down.

“Activating the flow state through that wrapping turn,” he offered.

Next up was Ethan Ewing vs Crosby Colapinto. Older brother Griffin, dumped out of the competition early once again and shockingly 26th in season rankings, joined Salazaar and Turpel in the studio. A meeting of minds if ever there was.

Ethan Ewing was typically hawk-like in his approach, stooping on few waves, but picking the eyes out them. But his well-fed 8.17 to open was followed by a long period of starvation in a slow heat. He waited patiently, but prey did not appear.

In the studio, Salazaar was at odds with his clout-chasing.

“What I love about your brother…etc,” he gushed to Griffin. But then Ewing got his score, and Salazaar had to switch tack. “I’m sorry, I know he’s your brother, but…”

The crux of the heat came in the final minute. Colapinto was in the lead with priority, and Ewing still needed a back-up greater than three. A set wave appeared. Colapinto tried to go, but was lost in the whitewater. Ewing, a little deeper, casually took off and bottom turned around the tumbling Colapinto. It was an unlikely scenario, and all Ewing had to do was make the wave in mediocre fashion. But uncharacteristically, he blew his second turn. Colapinto’s mild embarrassment was spared.

In the following quarter final, and then the semi, Jordy Smith continued his march. As with McGillivray, the running rights were right up Smith’s straat. Even in his twilight years, this should surprise no-one.

He dispatched both Ferreira and Houshmand in much the same way, nailing mid-eights early in the heat and leaving his opponents chasing.

Ferreira resorted to desperation airs, the likes of which we haven’t seen all season. But on a wave that rewarded flow over explosiveness, he just couldn’t find a steep enough section. Italo can flow when he wants to. On his best days he can string beautiful backhand turns, but today he couldn’t find the rhythm. And certainly not against prime Jordy.

“Machete, scalpel, scalpel, katana, samurai, switchblade,” said Cote, in succinct analysis of Smith’s turns.

By this time, Salazaar, under direct instruction or unlikely self-awareness, had left the booth and was loitering in the Red Bull Athlete Zone. This was unfortunate for Rainos Hayes, coach of Italo Ferreira.

“Love you longtime,” Mitch said to Hayes. “Love you longtime,” he insisted, before some other garbled communication in uncertain dialect.

Clearly he’s never seen Full Metal Jacket.

But whether he was soliciting his wares or otherwise, back in the booth Cote couldn’t ignore it. “He’s going all over the world…pidgin…some Spanglish coming through…”

Matt McGillivray continued his run to the final, besting Colapinto in an emaciated heat where just four waves were ridden.

With just three minutes left and comboed, Colapinto found a wave. It seemed a gem. He got barrelled three times. Mitch Salazaar squealed and howled. The mid-seven scored seemed low. But it was too little, too late regardless.

And so we had the first all South African final at this level in no less than 41 years.

“This is the chance for a new generation,” said Salazaar, as the oldest man on tour in Smith took to the water against the five-year CT veteran McGillivray.

“An opportunity to make a bunch of cash,” said the delightful Rosie Hodge, citing the dollar value of the rand.

“He could be starcrushed,” said Jesse Mendes of McGillivray’s attitude to Smith.

Jordy surfed an ugly, windblown opener for an inexplicable 7.33, and that was more or less it, aside from some painful mock South African accents and anecdotes from the commentary team.

Regardless of deteriorating waves, Smith was never going to lose to his countryman upstart. He was clearly emotional after winning not only for the first time in eight years, but for the first time on a board shaped by his father. It was a dream, he said, and at this stage of Smith’s career, it was a feel-good victory for all.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by World Surf League (@wsl)

“There’s nothing that can’t happen if you don’t have heart, Joe,” said Salazaar.

Turpel, understandably, might still be processing that one.

Load Comments

Nichols (left) crying through tears while listening to Mitchell Salazar.
Nichols (left) crying through tears while listening to Mitchell Salazar.

Devastating effects of world’s longest surf contest continue as runner-up Isabella Nichols forced to miss twin sister’s wedding

"This one was probably the biggest sacrifice I’ve had to make."

The Surf City El Salvador Pro concluded, yesterday, after cutting a devastating swath through the surfing community. While most sympathy fell upon the surf fan who was forced to endure eight days of Mitchell Salazar pronouncing “Punta Roca,” there were much greater victims.

Namely, Australia’s Isabella Nichols. The 27-year-old lost in the finals to Hawaii’s Gabriela Bryan by a score of 11.74 to 14.33, a fine result, but the torturous length of the contest forced her to miss her twin sister Helena’s wedding. Trying to put a brave face on emotional hell, Nichols told The Guardian, “I love coming back here (to El Salvador). The people are amazing, and the waves are beautiful. It’s just an incredible part of the world, and I just have so many people to thank. Especially my family for understanding that this is part of the job, and I was there (at the wedding) in spirit.”

Continuing, she explained, “As athletes and anyone really working on the road, there’s sacrifices that you have to make. This one was probably the biggest sacrifice I’ve had to make. My parents, my sister, George, and everyone at home, I just wanted to say I hope you have the most wonderful day today. I’m dedicating this one to you, Helena.”

But imagine the deep well of sadness that will be there for every Nichols family gathering from here on out. Mother starting story, “But then when Helena came down the aisle…” before casting a glance as Isabella then trailing off. Father starting story, “And once the DJ started spinning ‘The Way You Look Tonight’…” before casting a glance at Isabella then trailing off.

Devastating.

Punta Rrrrrrrroca.

But over to you, dear reader. What is the most important thing you’ve ever missed because you were watching a surf contest? Please share.

Load Comments

Greg Browning, dead, a couple of weeks before his fifty first birthday.
Greg Browning, one of the most popular pieces of the Momentum pie, dead, a couple of weeks before his fifty-first birthday.

Californian surf star and filmmaker Greg Browning, dead at 50

"World-class surfer, iconic filmmaker of Drive Thru series and many other legendary films, 17 clothing founder, and epic father."

The creator of the beloved Drive-Thru series and former star of Taylor Steele’s Momentum rock-and-cock films, Greg Browning, has died following an eighteen-month battle with the incurable neurodegenerative disease Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis.

Taylor Steele led the tributes for Greg Browning, who was a couple weeks shy of turning fifty-one, writing:

Some people live with such quiet kindness and courage that it leaves the rest of us in awe.

World class surfer, iconic filmmaker of drive thru series and many other legendary films, 17 clothing founder, and epic father. We travelled the world and went through different challenges but Greg was always the most considerate person I’ve ever met. But it was in his final chapter—facing ALS—that he revealed a deeper power. Not just in how he endured, but in how he showed up for others, even as his body faded.

He never made it about him. He stayed kind, curious, and deeply intentional—offering laughter, perspective, and still lifting people around him when he had every reason to fold inward.

And even now, I’m still trying to wrap my head around just how much he gave.

You’ll always be with us inspiring us to be more selfless, more giving and more like you effortlessly lived with love.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Taylor Steele (@taylorsteele)

Shortly after the diagnosis, Kelly Slater gifted Browning, along with his son Parker, Benji Weatherley, Keith and Derek Brewer, a day at the famous Lemoore tank.

An enduring image of that day is Browning, face alive with happiness, shooting his son getting barrelled from the water.

“This will go down as one of the best days of my life. Surfing with family and sharing memories that will live on forever,” wrote Parker Browning.

Load Comments