Greg Browning, shoots from the water while family and pals hunt the little barrels.

Kelly Slater gifts incurably ill surf filmmaker Greg Browning and Momentum-era stars $50,000 day at Surf Ranch wave pool

"This will go down as one of the best days of my life. Surfing with family and sharing memories that will live on forever."

Couple of months ago, shithouse news. The creator of the beloved Drive-Thru series and former star of Taylor Steele’s Momentum rock-and-cock films, Greg Browning was in the ring for the fight of his life after being diagnosed with the incurable neurodegenerative disease ALS aka motor-neurone disease also aka Lou Gehrig’s disease.

The outlook ain’t pretty for Browning. He is fit as a bull and blessed with an optimistic soul but MND leads to increasing muscle weakness, loss of mobility, difficulties in speaking and swallowing, and eventually respiratory failure.

“The nicest guy gets thrown around a lot but he actually is one of the most giving friends,” said Taylor Steele. 

Now, thanks to his old pal Kelly Slater, Browning, along with his son Parker, Benji Weatherley, Keith and Derek Brewer, got a taste of the famous Lemoore tank where the hospitality is as good, personalised lockers, chilled wine, excellent tapas, as the long, clean walls. 

“This will go down as one of the best days of my life. Surfing with family and sharing memories that will live on forever,” wrote Parker Browning.

 

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Dorian (pictured) living in the future. Photo: Instagram
Dorian (pictured) living in the future. Photo: Instagram

Medical tourists kept on edge of seat as big wave stud Shane Dorian shares more details about his quest for eternal life

Youth in our time.

Yesterday found the surf world glued to phone screens, pondering their own vitality as big wave stud Shane Dorian announced that he was headed to Tijuana, Mexico in order to receive a week’s long stem-cell treatment program. The surf legend declared he was going to have the life-giving noodles injected into his sore bits, shoulders, knees, neck etc. after a career or taking heaps of water on the head.

Ever the educator, Dorian said he would take the health-curious along on the ride and, true to his word, answered many frequently asked questions. On day one, he spent “two-plus hours” in an MRI tube getting his body ready for the flood. It was loud and claustrophobic but he was brave and survived. Scans coming back clear.

After meeting with doctors, having a delicious dinner, Dorian got down to the FAQs. You must follow along on his Instagram stories for full details. The boiled down pertinent bits below.

Why Mexico?

Here in Mexico they can do things with stem-cells, like duplicating cells, that is not allowed in United States. A whole lot more stem-cells into each treatment than the U.S.

Why nervous?

Couple pals had a lot of pain. Woke up from treatments in a lot of pain. Pain is from volume of stem-cells. Doesn’t like pain. Doesn’t like pain meds.

Feel safe in TJ?

A lot of people have assumptions, I had those same concerns but now that I’m here I don’t feel unsafe at all. Really incredible restaurants, bone marrow tacos. Seems super chill. No fentanyl zombies like in California.

How much?

Impossible to answer. Varies a ton. Stem-cell treatments, in general, are expensive. It’s just part of the deal.

Where do the stem-cells come from?

There are a lot of different type of stem-cells, the type that I’m getting her are stem-cells from umbilical cords. Harvested and “expanded.” Only one healthy mother out of 1000 meets the requirement for CPI. Wanted to make sure that donor mother was unvaxxed. Pre-Covid stem-cells.

And there we have it.

Are you sold?

Booking passage to Tijuana presently or taking a “wait-and-see” attitude?

Smart.


Laces out. Photo: Miami Dolphins
Laces out. Photo: Miami Dolphins

World Surf League rocked to core as NFL’s Miami Dolphins officially named “Greatest Show on Surf!”

The "momentum of professional surfing" looking less and less real.

It has, by any measure, been a rough year for our World Surf League. Small waves cursed the tour from the very beginning, its CEO Erik Logan got up to some “monkey business” in Brazil leading to his unceremonious firing and, to cap it all off, its once-proud Santa Monica headquarters placed on the market, forcing the “global home of surfing” to share space with injured animals.

Eight, or such, years ago there were only wide open vistas for the WSL. Future so bright. It had a billionaire funding and a bullish chief, Paul Speaker, who vowed to soon outgrown the powerful National Football League.

Alas, bummer upon bummer upon bummer until today where we have the NFL’s Miami Dolphins straight robbing the WSL, officially being dubbed “The Greatest Show on Surf.

There is speed for days with Tyreek Hill, De’Von Achane, Raheem Mostert being fed the skin by Hawaii’s Tuanigamanuolepola Tagovailoa, and the team is pressing every advantage.

The Dolphins were honored with the tag after amassing 2568 total yards of offense in the first five games of the season, surpassing the 2000 St. Louis Rams team’s 2527 yards.

Those Rams were “The Greatest Show on Turf.”

“The Greatest Show on Surf” much cooler.

But there is certainly scrambling in the new WSL headquarters today. Chief of Sport Jessi Miley-Dyer scrambling around, trying to call various newspapermen in order to share viewership numbers from the most recent “Finals Day” at Lower Trestles.

Smashing into veterinarians along the way.

Weeping “the momentum of professional surfing is REAL!”

Is it though?

More as the story develops.


makua-rothman-kelly-slater-doc-paskowitz
Makua, Doc and Slater. | Photo: Surfing 4 Peace

Kelly Slater and Jewish-Hawaiian big-wave champ Makua Rothman recall historic peacekeeping trip to Gaza

“If god and the devil were on the beach and the waves were going off 10-to-12-feet and barreling, I'm pretty sure they'd surf together."

The Hawaii-born surfer Makua Rothman, along with Kelly Slater, who is of Syrian descent, have shared details of their peacekeeping mission to Israel, for which Rothman wrote the song “Together People”. 

The pair joined the great Dorian “Doc” Paskowitz, who introduced surfing to Israel in 1956, for a five-day trip to raise awareness about Palestinian surfers in Gaza, culminating in the delivery of boards to Gaza’s surfers and a Surfing 4 Peace concert in front of three thousand people in Tel Aviv. 

“In 2007 I had the opportunity to go with Kelly Slater and experience first hand for myself what was going on in the conflict zone between Israel and Palestine,” Rorhman wrote. “Our mission was to bring together through surfing the people of these two warring nations and let the ocean be the medium. What I witnessed was mind blowing, When we showed up it was very clear that there were 2 different groups of people, but as soon as we got them in the ocean everything changed dramatically. It was like there was no problem between these people at all. I for a very long time wondered why? I eventually came to the conclusion, that when there is a common uncertainty or there is something that demands your full attention where both parties are faced with the same unknown humans seem to work together and the problems they once had no longer exist, at least at that moment in time. Mahalo to Dorian “DOC” Paskowitz for the vision.” 

 

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In a piece to camera Rothman says, “If god and the devil were on the beach and the waves were going off 10-to-12-feet and barreling, I’m pretty sure they’d surf together.”

Ten years earlier, Slater was detained by cops in Tel Aviv after a little roughhousing with pap photographers trying to get shots of him and Israeli supermodel Bar Rafaeli, although this failed to dampen his ardor for the region.

Responding to Rothman, Slater writes:

“Devastating to see what is happening. Immersed in war is no way to experience life. I feel fortunate we experienced Israel with Doc. It was his dying wish for this project to live on and for people to experience peace through surfing.”

 

 


“Miracle on the Mainframe” hailed as cherished surf blog comment section fixed!

A ray of light in a sea of doom.

These are, without doubt, dark days. Gaza is burning, Ukraine and Russia still entirely tangled, China dreaming of eating soup dumplings across the straight. Inflation, climate change, no waves in Southern California for, like, a long time. But even in the murk, a light shines. For have you noticed? Have you perceived?

BeachGrit’s comment section is fixed!

In days’ past, it was completely random where good People™ who wanted to share ideas with other good People™ would end up. Say someone wanted to add a note to a story about surf feminist Lucy Small. Well, he or Jen See might end up leaving it underneath a story about the transgendered trailblazer Sasha Jane Lowerson.

Confusing as all heck.

But now fixed!

I think credit due our tireless back end saint who sorted… something out.

A miracle, in any case, either of the will or from above.

Revel in the pure joy before dipping back into the doom.

Happy days here again