Koa Smith Skeleton Bay 2018: 1 wave, 8 Barrels

A ride that is being called the best wave ever ridden!

Koa Smith on the best wave of the day at Skeleton bay, getting 8 barrels on 1 wave, traveling over 1.5km in distance and surfing the wave for 2 minutes!

April starring Kael Walsh

Doped Youth

In the summer of 2003-04, the editor of Waves, Adam Blakey, and his best friend Ozzie Wright, created a movie that captured the intrinsically unsullied spirit of the young Australian surfer.

It is called Doped Youth and named after an anti-marinuana movie the was made in 1930. (“The Menace That Strikes At The Heart Of The American Youth.”) Doped Youth, the surfing movie, is notable for its roll call of stars including Kelly Slater, Tom Carroll, Ozzie, of course, and more.

Dion Agius reads The Laughing Heart..

And here we see the surfer and photographer Dion Agius surfing, early evening, in south-west France while a recording he made, also in France, colours the air.

The poem is the same one Levis used in an advertisement a little while back and, yet, its theme of acknowledging the brittle hold we have on life and therefore the importance of seizing every single day of it, is universal.

It’s a short poem that Dion reads with a resolute steady swing. A very good entry point into the poetry of Bukowski.

The Laughing Heart by Charles Bukowski

your life is your life
don’t let it be clubbed into dank submission.
be on the watch.
there are ways out.
there is light somewhere.
it may not be much light but
it beats the darkness.
be on the watch.
the gods will offer you chances.
know them.
take them.
you can’t beat death but
you can beat death in life, sometimes.
and the more often you learn to do it,
the more light there will be.
your life is your life.
know it while you have it.
you are marvelous
the gods wait to delight
in you.

— by Charles Bukowski

5’5″ x 19 1/4″ Redux

Lost reimagines the classic 90's film 5' 5" x 19 1/4" with the Redux.

Featuring Chris Ward, Aaron Cormican, Cory Lopez, Kolohe Andino, and Kelly Slater and more.