"Wow, wow, wow, one of the best days of surfing we've ever had."

Surfer of the year Nathan Florence is like the fabled milkman of yore, never failing to deliver, morning, night, rain, snow, whatever, he’s there delivering his full cream treats which, for the just-turned thirty year old, are his bi-weekly video dispatches from around the globe. 

In this episode we find Nathan, whose face is permanently etched haggard by the decades of daily eight-hour surf sessions, in the Mentawai Islands, those pretty little islands halfway along the Sumatran coast, neither west nor east. As most surfers know, their proximity to the equator, one-and-half degrees off it in most places, means y’get, mostly, desultory winds and, in season, roaring south swells, coming all the way from the tip of South Africa.

Specifically, Nathan Florence is at the famous right-hander called Lance’s Rights, so-named after Yamba surfer Lance Knight who first rode the wave in 1991. It’s also called HT’s or Hollow Trees after a few dead trees that hung around the point there for a while.

The joint sure has changed since Lance’s time. Nathan Florence and his man-servant Zoard enjoy a villa that has a swimming pool and a concierge that serves three delicious meals every day.

In the promo literature accompanying his latest dispatch, Nathan Florence describes the session as the “biggest HTs we have ever surfed.” He is correct in that, yes, it really is big and Nathan, whose skills until recently had begun to overshadow his double world champion brother John John, makes it look like the easiest damn thing in the world.

Sit deep (up the point at the office, as they call it), wait til the whitewater fills the horizon, and get the marshmallow soft chip shot into the double-up. The footage Nathan captures, first from a Go-Pro held in his mouth and, later, from a camera mounted on the tail of his surfboard, will zoom anyone’s blood pressure.

A sort of outro in the edit, of regular surfers panicking on the precipice of the ledge or jumping for their lives just as the double-up readies to throw, demonstrates that this sure ain’t a wave for sissies.

“Wow, wow, wow, one of the best days of surfing we’ve ever had,” says Nathan Florence.

Essential.

 Click to watch! 

“That was one of the best days of surfing of my entire life.”

I remember for my twenty-first birthday gift, some years ago now, I was gifted a Bali-Lombok-Sumbawa boat trip from my parents, the journey taking in the then just-established route of Desert Point, Yo-Yos, Super Suck and Scar Reef.

Waves, of course, are as cyclical as the iron-on jeans now worn by the same packs of men who would’ve punched you in the head for dressing like a faggot ten years earlier and three of those four waves went out of vogue sometime in the nineties, disappearing from the pages of magazines and never making it to the online era.

An important case is the wave Super Suck, which winds into glorious Maluk Bay there in West Sumbawa. Forgotten by the surf media but not by the Indo regulars who stay in the pretty little camps in front of what is a relatively fickle wave and one best surfed on a fullish sorta tide.

The Hawaiian heartthrob and scion of North Shore strongman Fast Eddie, Koa Rothman, recently experienced the joy of Super Suck along with his old friend and former tour surfer Dean Morrison.

Rothman, who is thirty, has a golden-brown glazed handsomeness and, unlike most of the bigger name professional surfers, is sharp enough to ad lib his way through twenty-five minutes or so of his day-to-day life for his blog This is Livin’.

In this episode, Koa Rothman Super Suck deals with Super Suck with the same insouciance he shows Pipeline and where the pack, and it’s quite a pack, is fizzing back and forth, Koa calmly threads each section even as it gets quite hairy.

Koa Rothman describes Super Suck as the “craziest wave” he’s ever surfed and says his sessions there comprise “one of the best days of surfing of my entire life.”

The episode is let down, but only slightly, with Koa Rothman’s POV angle, our hero never quite getting deep enough to capture the stunning deep-in-the-hole angle as popularised by his neighbour Nathan Florence.

Still, essential.

Little Ivan Florence turns 28 and celebrates by slamming into big, empty Mentawai waves.

The two younger Florence brothers, Nathan and Ivan, have stuffed their burned-out rods into one of the best swells to slam into Indonesia since the last biggest-ever swell.

Although missing elder brother John John, who was busy marauding everyone but Italo Ferriera at Teahupoo, the pair flew to Arawa, at the northern tip of Sipura there in the famous Mentawai island chain, to chase an incoming swell, and to celebrate the twenty-eighth birthday of Ivan on May 25.

(The sell on Bilou Beach Villas, with its private boats, dreamy lil villas, self-serve kitchens etc is compelling. I’m booking!)

As you know, Prince Harry lookalike Nathan Florence is the alpha male of the squad now following his surfer of the year crown, narrowly surpassing older brother John John although a third world title in September would see the passing back of the title.

Ivan, meanwhile, who looks so much like daddy John Florence Snr, has emerged from the shadow of his overachieving oldest brother and hilariously absurdist middle bro in the past half a dozen Hawaiian seasons, proving magnetic in the water as well as the skate park, creative energies suddenly liberated.

The differing personalities Nathan describes thus, 

“Ivan is a serious little guy. Very serious little face. I’m more of the sarcastic one who’s making a joke out of everything and then John is just right in between. He can be super mature, just ’cause he has to deal with so many interviews and business-like stuff, but then at the same time he’s more immature than me and Ivan… especially when he gets drunk.”

The session contained in the video box below is the sort of thing that will have you propped up on your pillows and jiggling your hands in the air.

The moment the empty lineup swings into view. How big you wanna call those sets? Feel the staccato of your heart-beat!

Essential.