Watch Griffin Colapinto in: “This is the shit you read about, ladies and gentlemen, in the newspapers! F*ck!”

A thirteen-minute coda of Griff's 2018 Hawaiian season, Sunset, Pipe and so on… 

Like most of you, I find little to be ecstatic about in the overuse of slow-motion and ultra high-definition vision in surf edits.

What I get a kick out of is fly-on-the-wall documentary, little moments where we get to know a person, his habits, the way he talks, reacts to people, walks.

This edit, which compresses a few weeks of Griff’s Hawaiian season, hits us with both.

We get the RED, which ain’t so bad in this case ’cause Griffin is a mature artist in command of his powers, style wise, but what makes it is the off-the-cuff gear.

See Griffin with beautiful foreign girl in one-piece yellow swimsuit. When he asks her to DM his Instagram account, she tells Griffin she already has while provocatively swinging what one hopes to be experienced hips.

Kolohe Andino howls “Ow, ow, owwwwwwwww!”

See Griffin at Pipe, before and after, exchanges with Joel Parko and so on.

I do think this featurette would’ve had more weight if it’d been loosed a week or two after Pipe finished, but as an examination of a man with modesty and moderation and charm, it’s a charming enough rendezvous.


Watch Italo Ferreira tear hell out of West Africa in “Seeds of Copulation!”

Italo hits lips with metronome-like relentlessness in recent visit to Cape Verde islands… 

I doubt if three minutes, or thereabouts, spent watching Italo Ferreira can be a bad thing.

This short film is notable for its depiction of a chameleon whose surfing is completed with rigour and glee, even with the occasional flub. I found the first half of the film a little disappointing, the waves look very weak and Italo must constantly hoist his board upwards to squeeze out any speed, but the end playful and exciting.

The accompanying song stinks like a rag that has been used to mop up the urine of a dog, however.


VAL and proud: An ode to the Vulnerable Adult Learner!

Courteous, egalitarian and surf stoked!

In this compelling short film, the New Zealand anthropologist Chris Drabble examines the life of the vulnerable adult surfer, poor in talent but rich in his, her, lofty belief that surfing has gifted them the power of a god.

“There’s this sensation I get from surfing that’s like nothing else. When I’m out there on the water my energy is in sync with the universe. I still remember that day I paddled out into the waves for the first time ever on my surfboard.”

How long ago was that?

The Val’s face becomes graver, his eyes more introspective.

“Well, it was four days ago. It’s a pretty special memory, that.”

Watch! 


Watch Shaun Manners and Creed McTaggart in “There’s nothing coming out but watery spit!”

Beautifully unvarnished surfing from the house of Manners and McTaggart…

Three months ago, the Western Australian Shaun Manners released a video which became, perhaps not a surprise hit, at least if you knew of him, but a confirmation of his unspoiled talent. 

This film, which is ten minutes long, continues the affair and includes another Western Australian, Creed McTaggart, who once told me,

“Coaches fucking piss me off. I did four ISAs and I just fucking hated it. It’s such a weird vibe. So intense. It didn’t feel real. It felt fake and I hate coaches telling you where to put your arms when you surf. I’ve always want to surf how I wanted to surf.”

I think that is a fine summation of this easygoing clip, where neither Creed nor Shaun has been transfigured by an interfering hand.

“I don’t strive to be unique,” said Creed. “I strive to fucking be myself.”

It’s a fine ethos.

Creed’s creed, y’could say.


Watch: Mason Ho in “No prostitutes here, amigo!”

Perverted sales pitch for Lost asymmetrical surfboards… 

This short is a sales pitch for Lost’s asymmetrical surfboards, a design that’s been around even since daddy was swapping wet kisses for milkshakes and hot butterscotch fudge.

The theory is easy enough: a shorter rail on your heel side, ’cause we all tend to surf in the pocket on our backhand, and longer on your toes ’cause we can’t help ourselves and run for miles on the face.

I asked Biolos a year ago about ’em after Chas had been riding an Asym from Album Surf in San Clemente.

“It was almost too much fun,” Chas wrote. “I am getting another asymmetrical to try out because it feels like the key to me getting on the WQS as a 40-year-old man. The feel-good story of the decade! Tell me I’m wrong. Tell me I’m a dirty dirty bad boy.”

In these instances, I call either Jon Pyzel or Matt Biolos for a long-term view of any faddish design. Biolos said he’d made his first one in 1993 but had avoided because of the necessity of having boards in stock for natural footers and for goofies.

“Stores don’t want to have to double the amount of boards to cover a size range,” said the Bear Jew. “I think it’s financially daunting. Like glass-on fins are now. No one has the room to stock them although I think they could sell.”

I get the theory, I said. But are they really, as one commenter put it so eloquently, for people who like to go straight?

“Most of the ones you see these days are more about art or ‘Shock and Awe’. So it’s easy to say that and be cynical. But I believe that statement is too broad and sarcastic. It’s just that no one is really working on them in the competitive zone. The best surfing I’ve seen on them is Ryan Burch, by a mile, so you know it can be done. Someone like him could push them to more acceptance. They can actually be made far more subtle and I think make turning a bit more easy. The thing is that fringe, artsy shapers have pushed them too extreme… We can make nice functional, realistically proportioned asyms that work. Not quite the ‘Shock and Awe’ monstrosities you see hype fed on Instagram but more for function than fad.”