"I get scared out there, even if it’s not that high," Jackie says.
Somewhere on the edge of the desert on the Western Australian coast is a lefthander that makes every other wave you’ve surfed taste like a turkey cocktail (Vermouth and Angostura Bitters. Shake.)
In this video, which comprises two six-hour sessions cut together, Jack Robinson, a Western Australian whose business it seems is to humiliate higher-rated surfers at dangerous reef ledges, rides a wave that, he says, “just tries to kill you.”
“I get scared out there, even if it’s not that high,” says Jack in an interview with Alexei Obolensky, from Wasted Talent, a magazine and surf shop in our favourite corner of France. “That town before the spot is pretty wild. It’s a fisherman town. My dad used to work there as a fisherman so every time we’d stop there when I was a kid it’d be pretty full on. I’d be waiting for him in the car at the gas station because I was petrified by the old locals living there. I was this little scared kid that was waiting in the car with a bowl haircut and a baseball bat at the time.”