Watch: Jack Robinson in “My twelve-hour barrel bender! The wave is an animal! It’s wild!”

"I get scared out there, even if it’s not that high," Jackie says.

Somewhere on the edge of the desert on the Western Australian coast is a lefthander that makes every other wave you’ve surfed taste like a turkey cocktail (Vermouth and Angostura Bitters. Shake.)

In this video, which comprises two six-hour sessions cut together, Jack Robinson, a Western Australian whose business it seems is to humiliate higher-rated surfers at dangerous reef ledges, rides a wave that, he says, “just tries to kill you.”

“I get scared out there, even if it’s not that high,” says Jack in an interview with Alexei Obolensky, from Wasted Talent, a magazine and surf shop in our favourite corner of France. “That town before the spot is pretty wild. It’s a fisherman town. My dad used to work there as a fisherman so every time we’d stop there when I was a kid it’d be pretty full on. I’d be waiting for him in the car at the gas station because I was petrified by the old locals living there. I was this little scared kid that was waiting in the car with a bowl haircut and a baseball bat at the time.”

Read that interview here.

And watch!



Watch: Mason Ho “rear-end curvy hams at The Wedge!”

Mindless, beautiful, fresh and innocent. 

Newport’s The Wedge, with Hawaiian Mason Ho as a cameo star, magnetises the eyes.

In this three-and-a-half minute short, from last weekend, September 13, 14, the thirty-one-year-old surfer from Sunset Beach, Oahu, crams his surfboard into pulse stomping four-foot shorebreak tubs.

Shot entirely on GoPro’s and devoid of any out-of-the-water comedy, it’s a meld of sand in the face and stinging nostrils.

Oh it just pops!

Watch: Teenage John John Florence’s masterclass at Teahupoo (as narrated by Albee Layer)!

A re-issue, and re-edit, of a 2011 classic…

Here, a trip to Teahupoo in the US summer of 2011 with John John and his bothers, Nathan and Ivan, and the Maui jibber-and-big-waver Albee Layer.

It is instructive to watch, because almost a decade later, there’s still only a few of his tour peers who can, like John, stand there in the pulpit chanting amen.

Can you imagine how John was feeling, in his convalescence back home on the North Shore, watching the best waves at a contest there since 2014?

Oh he must be like a bored cat in a cage, looking at clothes in catalogues and gazing out the front window, his hair slowly turning red…

Watch: Breasts, youth, fertility and the overwhelming power of six-to-ten-foot Skeleton Bay!

Come ride the Namibian rickshaw! It's big, daddy…

In his latest vlog, Brett Barley, a gifted surfer and genial YouTube host, takes the viewer on a comprehensive tour, in and out of the water, of Namibia’s Skeleton Bay.

We begin in New York, although Brett has flown from North Carolina, wind our way to Walvis Bay, Namibia, hire a four-wheel-drive, rescue a seal from the graveyard and, eventually, join Skeleton Bay’s circus act along with various noted surfers from South Africa, the USA and so on.

It gets big.

Six-to-eight, maybe bigger.

It’s like a fish stew of sand and surfboards, a green batter enfolding the rider.

Watch Seth Moniz in: “Like an energetic octopus shaking martinis!”

The sweetest puckering from soon-to-be WSL rookie of the year…

Seth Moniz, the tour rookie and son of eighties Hawaiian shredder Tony Moniz, has loosed a short film that while not breaking down the door, as they say, will certainly culminate in a bruised shoulder.

When Seth surfs it’s as though tigers are loose inside his apartment, a riot of crashing glass and overturned furniture. From the much vaunted back-flip at Waco to the debris he leaves at Pipeline, Seth carries the torch of his distant lineage and other worldly specimens, Johnny-Boy, his Dad, the Ho’s, Dane Kealoha.

A delight to watch.