You be the judge etc.

John John Florence came into the world a fatherless little boy who, rapidly, became adored by the rich and the poor, the stupid and the intelligent.

His popularity as a two-time world champion is such that he can’t walk down the street without being assaulted by a delirious crowd.

His eyes are intelligent and he is intelligent, too, in his silence and his darkness.

Albee Layer, meanwhile, strikes you as a charming and irritating young layabout with the smile of a wild animal that can’t be caged.

This seven-minute edit, which also features Matt Meola and John’s brother Nathan, is a bullfight of sorts at a Hawaiian righthander fed by a perfect under-your-wings air wind.

Violent emotions are released.

Who wins?

The spins of Albee or the grace of John?

Afterwards, delicious fresh mussels, opened over a fire, are served by Matt Meola.

Wall rides, fin-first tubing etc.

This short film, starring Mason Ho and Coco Ho, is extremely confusing, wall-rides, fins-first tube riding, but you quickly learn to ignore the details and just watch the glam cast have fun.

“Mason Ho is a saviour from the fucking corporate, straight-laced, uptight, fucking, pre-planned-interview-answer surfing world we live in today,” says anti-commie shaper Matt Biolos. “He’s everything that people think surfing is, and should be, when you think of all the beautiful stereotypes, like from the fucking Beach Boys to fricken’ Sean Penn to Big Wednesday. Mason is fucking incredibly fun to watch surf two-foot junk and 12-foot Pipeline. He’s what everyone’s selling, without trying. He’s the most real guy out there. We’re fortunate to have him in our lives.”

A movie that engrosses, hypnotizes and clings to the memory long after the final frame