Cape Fear Challenge contest director Mark Mathews (and event favourite) ain't short of good advice…
Tomorrow morning at seven-thirts (that’s Australian Eastern Standard Time), the Red Bull Cape Fear Challenge is going to run at Cape Solander. You know all about the wave, yeah? That dirty ledge that deposits its payload in front of a limestone cliff right there at the southern headland of Botany Bay, a click or so from Sydney’s international airport.
The contest director and event favourite is Mark Mathews, a big-wave surfer and corporate speaker (Overcome your fear! Let me show you how!) who’s thrown his life at the game of chasing ridiculous waves. Two weeks ago he way he took French photographer Laurent Pujol’s behind-the-surfer technique to another dimension at the Right in WA (see it at stabmag.com or redbull.com/en/surfing).
Who else you going to listen to about how you should behave, react and approach big waves?
1. Big waves equal a lot of moving water
What does that mean to you? Paddle hard and paddle early. Watch guys surf Ours or Shipsterns and you’ll see how early they start to paddle. You might think that they’re going to paddle ‘emselves too far inside. What they’re doing is staying in position as the water rushes out.
2. Beat your wings not your hams
When you’re stroking to the surface, use your arms but don’t kick your legs. The big muscles in your legs eat up a ton of oxygen. You need me to tell you that oxygen is your sweetest friend. Keep a fresh supply.
3. Make a decision and stick to it even if it’s wrong
Second guess and you’ll start punching the panic button way too early. I was at Pipe last year, saw a 10-foot double-up, paddled out, then turned around and got myself into the worst position.
4. Pick your waves
The easiest big waves to surf are ones breaking into channel. As your confidence grows you will move closer to the peak. The only problem ‘bout this is that most people are doing the same thing.
5. If you’re gonna go, go
In a crowded lineup don’t paddle hard and pull back. If the lineup is aggressive and the conditions are good you’ll only have one bite at the cherry. It’s way better to jump off and go over the falls than pull back. Of course, tyre kicking has its advantages (see the next point).
6. Kick tyres
If you’re surfing a reef, crazy-lookin’ things sometimes let you in. Paddle with ‘em slowly and take a look over the ledge. If it gives you an entry point, and sometimes they do, keep paddling. If it doesn’t let it go.
7. Get sandy
Want big, uncrowded waves? Surf a beachbreak. A lot of people are scared of copping waves on the head. Build your confidence by paddling and not going. When was the last time a decent surfer drowned surfing a big beachie?
8. Protect your leash
When you dump your board don’t jerk your leg against your leash as the wave hits. Go with it. Dampen the shock. Ain’t a damn thing worse than being way out the back at Waimea or Sunset without a sled.
9. Paddle as if your life depended on it
It lets other surfers know that you’re going no matter what.
10. The end section ain’t so bad
You’ve ridden a wave at Chopes or Cloudbreak or wherevs to the end. You flick off, filled with self-congratulations, just in time to see a set approaching. Getting caught inside is our biggest fear and I’m no exception. I was at Teahupoo and this happened and I was… so… scared. But, the thing you have to remember, and that I had to remind myself, is that waves quickly lose their power in shallow water. Dive just under the whitewater and let yourself get washed in.