It's the most profound decision you'll ever have to make. It's life or death!
I am frothing.
I pull up to the waist-high beach break with you and immediately jump out to grab my board. You say wait a minute it’s not so good because it’s small and the swell is not here yet and the wind has just come up. I say I see waist high A-frames with rampy peaks and blow-tail end sections. You do not go out. I definitely go out because I am frothing.
I am 12 years old and out of school for the summer. I am not doing Junior Lifeguards so I will not miss the best dawn patrol waves because I have to swim around a buoy or run on the sand. I am frothing.
I am 18 years old and I am going to college on the California coast (or University of Hawaii if I can get in). I will live in the Oceanside or Ocean Beach or Cayucos ghetto so I can be the first on it and check it after classes. I am frothing.
I am 24 years old and I turn down a good paying job inland because I will not commute away from the ocean. I make ends meet at a lower wage job but I surf every day before work. I am frothing.
I am 46 years old and I make about half the amount of money as other people my age. But I have twice the hair and I am healthy and fit because my work schedule is second to my surf schedule. I surf five to seven days a week before or after work. I am in the best shape of my life. I am frothing.
I am 65 years old and I am collecting social security. I surf every day because I never stopped and now I never have to because I have saved some money to go along with the retirement check. I am in the best shape of any senior citizen I know because I am in touch with the ocean every day. I am frothing.
I am frothing and you have decided not to paddle out.
I’ll text you to let you know how good it is and what you have been missing all this time…
… when I get out.
This was always the problem surfing in Alaska growing up. People just didn’t understand the need and desire to go on days where it wasn’t 80 degrees, summer, and when the water was being warmed by currents from Japan. That need to surf when you walk through snow covered sand to get to beautiful pacific barrels with chunks of ice floating in the lineup. That’s what 6/5/4 wetsuits are for, that’s what 7 and 9 mm booties and gloves are for. That’s what ultra buoyant boards, because the water in Alaska isn’t salty enough, due to massive amounts of snow and melt, are for.
…oh Graham! Reinvigorate yourself and accept the sweet message!
Methinks Graham Spaplepsberg missed the point. And it was such a short piece to begin with…
Wow, talk about appealing to the lowest common denominator! Surfing is a lot of things but it sure as hell isn’t mutually exclusive with education, career or “success”. Choose to be a loser on your own accord, Scott Valor. Blame it a lack of intellect or ambition. Blame it on overly-induldent parenting. But please don’t blame it on surfing.
Did you type that from your fluorescent lit cubicle, Graham?
You got me pegged, Turtle. Well done!
I feel like you might suffer from traumatic brain injury. It often leads to lashing out angrily at things for no reason, inability to control emotions, and various other related issues. I too suffer from this disorder, although mine was from getting blown up, not getting slapped 13 times.
And yes, it’s just more fun pretending this is the real graham.
Again, you got me! The real Graham would have liked Scott’s “piece” very much. After all, he wants you guys to all think that life is much better in boardshorts!
But where I surf it’s too cold to live life in board shorts, that’s what Nike basketball shorts are for, and tights..