Have you been getting your El Nino? Have you been proud of the way you've surfed it?
El Nino has been such a wonderful gift for California. I surf everyday now and it is fun fun fun but my legs are wobbly from years of mush. When the wave goes square, for example, I drop out of the sky and think, “Oh bummer.”
And it makes me glad that the talented Erik Derman shot this little gem in very slow motion. I watch the professional legs of Jojo Roper, Dam Hobgood, Rob Machodo etc. and think, “That’s how!” and also “Oh.”
I want to be able to surf suckling monsters better than I have been and so I will paddle out today with these images in my mind and try to stick more landings. It seems to be all in the hips.
Oh Bummer. Somehow that part made me giggle.
Anyway, el Niño came to visit and all I got was this stupid sinus infection. 🙁
Spectacular!
I thought Machado was a bona fide midget when I first saw him live.
Hood and boots? Is Damo in Russia?
Air temp’s been pretty cold in the mornings. Besides, Machado’s been over-wetsuiting it his entire life.
Rob weighs 89 pounds. Water’s still a good 60 where I am – can’t see any need for that much rubber.
Never really needed much more rubber than a 4/3 in SoCal but when the water is hovering around 60 and the air is low 40s at sunrise the hood feels kinda nice.