Do you ever feel like the man has got his boot
on your neck? That you are slaving away at a job you loathe in
order to pay bills that you just can’t get ahead of? That it is
more and more difficult to keep mouths fed? That there is just no
hope? No way to move forward?
Of course not! You, ol’ chum, are a surfer!
And a new study by two Oxford economists, published in Forbes, details the value of waves
and how much we pay for them. Shall we read a section ol’ chum?
Waves, it turns out, are no drop in the ocean. High-quality
waves, the authors estimate, generate economic activity worth $50
billion per year globally. That’s around $20m every year for each
place with good surf. And when surfers discover a great new spot,
economic growth in the area can rise by up to three percentage
points for the next five years. Good waves also help turn the tide
of rural poverty by encouraging the poor to stream into towns to
join the surfing economy.
Ol’ chum? Are you still reading or have you retired to the
bridge room? Cribbage? Are you drinking the Domaine de la
Romanee-Conti or the Domaine Leflaive Montrachet? The Chateau
Lafite?
Good choice, ol’ chum!
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Gimme: An enemy to love!
By Chas Smith
Can someone help me bring the fun back? The fire?
Please?
I’ve got nothing, bro. Nothing, dude. Nothing.
At. All. I’ve wandered this desert, this jujube we call “surf” for
the better part of my life looking for a proper enemy. A soul with
whom I can regularly cross swords like Mercutio and Tybalt, like
Hirohito and General MacArthur and and nothing. NOTHING!
I’ve tried to draw WSL CEO Paul Speaker out but he refuses to be
engaged. He is a computer wearing an asshat. An inhuman turd. A
square-jawed, corn fed, non-surfing kook who doesn’t know the first
thing about Mercutio. I mean barrels. CEO Paul Speaker? Are you
reading? My offer still stands, I’ve decided. One
interview and the abuse stops. But now it has to be on camera and
an episode of our wonderful Like Bitchin! series (subscribe
today!)
Mick Fanning was funny for a second and almost became perfect
when he went and cried to the real press about being offended
because he called me names. Let’s remember!
Prior to the exchange with the reporter, I had refused to
speak with him because I understood he worked
for Stab magazine and that it had previously published
articles which I believed were racist and anti-Semitic. I strongly
object to views, statements and comments of that nature. I
acknowledge that my decision to use words that were inappropriate –
albeit in an attempt to be ironic, knowing they were of the type
favoured by the magazine – was misjudged and wrong.
And ha! The worst press release in history (pre-Trump)! And the
start of a real, beautiful rivalry. And then he went off and got
brushed by a shark and became a global hero and adored icon
even winning my undying admiration.
The Inertia continues to double down on milquetoast. Is
there anything more mouth-spewingly bland than Zach Weisberg’s
blend of chia seed, yoga, ill-begotten humor and listicle? Bland
and not up for any sort of fight, obvs.
Stab is a shell, Vissla succeeded and wasn’t nearly as
bad as I thought, Brazil excites in its over-excitement and Matt
Warshaw is a dear friend.
NOTHING!
Where? Tell me, where can I find somebody to love? I mean
hate?
Anywhere?
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Movie: Midnight Boners & Mason Ho!
By Rory Parker
Sparkle Eyes really vibes like he'd be a killer
snuggle monster.
The Padang Cup event was very good, but it
did drag a little. Building swell, tide complications. The
brilliant moments were just that, but with some rounds featuring a
half-hour wait between waves it got a tad boring.
Perfect for a highlight video. Boil the day down to its
concentrated best, add a dash of Mason Ho, and you’ve got yourself
a tasty dish. Yum yum yum. Eat it right up.
Mason’s appeal is how well he conveys pure stoke. Chips through
my jaded heart. Reminds me of younger years when this was all I
wanted. Be a pro surfer, hang out with rippers. Spend my days
shredding with the best. Not really how things work, but it’s the
dream. The one they sell, the one people buy. The one I don’t
really want anymore but still kinda do, somewhere deep down inside
of cynical piece of shit I’ve become.
If BeachGrit ever starts making real
money I’d love to see about getting Mason on a trip with us. Go to
Alaska, or somewhere else really cold. Do a full soul-bro cold
weather camping trip. Look at us, we’re the Malloys!
I’d make sure he was bundled up against the cold. Bring him hot
cocoa to warm his tummy.
I’d “forget” to bring enough sleeping bags. We’d be forced to
share body heat to survive the night. Cuddle up so good. Not in a
sexual way or anything. But Sparkle Eyes really vibes like he’d be
a killer snuggle monster.
As far as the footage… a chopped and distilled run of footage
from the official stream would have been good enough for government
work. I’d’ve watched it. Enjoyed it. Praised it a bit but not
really because it didn’t bring anything new.
This is another story. Adds so much spice. We’ve got the channel
cam angle, sadly missing from the stream. Gives you a glimpse of
that bucking bronco foam ball insanity. So so so so so so good!
Cliff-top view almost makes it looks easy. Staring down the throat
of heaving barrels makes it very clear how much skill it takes to
do this shit.
Drone angle makes an appearance. I hate those fucking things.
Trying to surf while one hovers over the lineup is like trying to
read a book with a leaf blower firing upside your head.
But it looks so cool. I enjoy watching stuff filmed from drones.
Just don’t like it when they intrude on my scene. Some kind of
NIMBY shit, for sure.
Music choice is appropriate. Fun guitar jamming away. Doesn’t
hurt your ears. Doesn’t distract from the images. Good good
good.
In the end this video is the same as every other one featuring
Mason Ho. It’s totally fucking awesome and I absolutely love it and
it makes me gush like the fan boy I am.
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Revival: Surf style becoming
“nostalgic!”
By Chas Smith
"Because if there’s one thing millennials have
proven they love, it’s a throwback to a trend of their
childhood!"
I am finally out of Big Sur and back to wifi
and back to life! The Olympics have started, I see, and Dane and
his love Courtney tied the knot!
It is a very good thing to get married, in my opinion, as
opposed to living as boyfriend and girlfriend for multiple years.
It shows that a man and a woman are not chicken. That they are not
afraid to attach ancient structures to their soaring love. Good for
Dane! Good for Courtney! And may they be happy forever!
Speaking of happy forever, have you seen those smiling faces in
Rio? Remember, just yesterday, when everyone in the world said the
Games were going to be a horrible failure? That pollution and Zika
and armed robbery and Brazilians? Well everyone in the world is
eating crow off a giant churrasco spit right now!
Success!
And surfing will be dancing in the glow of Tokyo success in just
four years. Certainly there will be fears of nuclear contamination,
the rising spectre of Japanese nationalism, corruption, etc. etc.
beforehand but that’s cuz people are haterz, dog.
In any case, the Hollywood Reporter wrote that
surfing’s inclusion in the Olympics might create a revival among
the youth for vintage surf fashions. Let’s read!
Nowadays — in the era of Brandy Melville obsession
and athleisure empires — many surf brands have fallen off the
style radar. Both PacSun and Quiksilver filed for bankruptcy in the past
year, signaling a decline in interest among Gen Z
shoppers.
But several world-ranked surfers are still sponsored by
companies of yore, including VonZipper, Volcom, Oakley,
Hurley, Lost and Etnies, leading us to wonder if their moment in
the spotlight could translate into a nostalgic resurrection of that
early aughts style. Because if there’s one thing millennials have
proven they love, it’s a throwback to a trend of their childhood.
(See: the Gilmore Girls revival, chokers, Pokemon Go.)
If the Instagram accounts of athletes like Matt
Wilkinson (ranked No.1 by the World
Surf League, men’s) and Tyler Wright (ranked No.1 by the World Surf League,
women’s) are any indication, surf wear is surviving, thanks in no
small part to free apparel from sponsors like Roxy and Rip
Curl.
Do you think the brands love being referred to as “companies of
yore?” Do you think they think of themselves as purveyors of an
“early aughts style?”
I think maybe yes!
Or if no they should!
A massive financial windfall just around the corner for those
who can hold on by the fingernails! For those that can recapture
the magic of millennial childhoods!
Also, can you help real quick? What on earth does that last
sentence mean? Surf wear is surviving thanks to free apparel from
sponsors? Does it mean that without giving clothing away the brands
would all be dead?
Oh.
I get it.
Yeah.
Maybe accurate.
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Dead: Surf Icon Midget Farrelly!
By Derek Rielly
Matt Warshaw on the squarest man in
surfing…
Australia’s first world surf champ, Bernard “Midget”
Farrelly has died, aged seventy-one. Big deal? Yeah, maybe
it is.
BeachGrit: Midget was Australia’s first world surfing
champ. Which made him big in Australia. But is there anything that
attaches him to surfing, now? Performance? Boards?
Warshaw: Midget’s timing, for those first big years, was perfect.
He was the surfing gentleman, the boy next door, perfect manners,
well-dressed, posh accent — at a time when surfers in general were
just a step above pickpockets. He wore that mantle so well. When
surfing went hippy, and Midget refused to go along, he got hammered
for being a square. I think it’s greatly to his credit that he
stayed true to who he was — an articulate, highly-focused,
no-bullshit person. He actually did his best surfing during the
years where he was uncool. Damien Hardman is the surfer who I think
came closest to late-period Midget in terms of being hugely
accomplished but not especially loved. I can’t seem to make a
connection between Midget and any 2016 surfers. Sad to say, but I
think he’d be as unpopular now as he was in the late ‘60s, in that
he wouldn’t sing and dance and mug for our pleasure. He was better
than that.
BeachGrit: The most interesting thing, it seemed, was
his blood feud with the slightly younger Nat Young, who superseded
Midge as Australia’s best surfer. Midget really hated Nat; and Nat
was contemptuous of Midget. Any theories on its origin? Was it
something to do with Midget’s anti-drug stance at a time when the
world was turning on?
Warshaw: It’s complicated. Here’s what I wrote a couple years
back:
The epigraph for Midget Farrelly’s 1965 autobiography This
Surfing Life is brief. “When you’re comfortable, you’re dead.”
The man was 21 years old, reigning world champ, and the toast of
the Australian sporting set — yet he chose to introduce his book
with that little nugget of gloom. Here’s what I’m getting at. The
bitterness that would come to at least partly define Midget
Farrelly in years to come — that was inborn. Some of it,
anyway.
And some of it was forced down his throat. For almost 50 years
now, Midget has been surfing’s most ill-treated figure. Surf media
tastemakers lost interest in Farrelly not long after This
Surfing Life was published because, A) he didn’t get stoned,
and B) he was roughly 85% less charismatic than his
protege-turned-rival Nat Young.
Fifty years ago, Bob McTavish, Nat, and John Witzig did an issue
of Surfing World, cheering the arrival of the “New Era”
(self-titled), which basically meant Nat and Bob and George
Greenough. Midget was saluted, the article was in fact very much
respectful of Midget, but clearly he wasn’t really included in
their New Era club. So that was the beginning of the feud. It
should have lasted a few months, maybe a few years, outside. But it
never, ever died. Or rather, it died when Midget died. In the end,
I think it was Midget holding onto the anger, more so than Nat.
Then again, Midget was the one who had to eat the injustice.
BeachGrit: Wasn’t a big fan of the surf media, either.
Because of its beatification of Nat? Of drugs?
Yeah, in a nutshell. Midget was hardcore anti-drug. Belittling,
even. It wasn’t a nice side of him. He was so good at what he did,
everything he did — his surfboards were as sleek and perfect as his
surfing style — that I think he was blinded to the idea that other
people could do things differently.
As far as I know, Midget never acknowledged that Nat and all the
other red-eyed shortboard longhairs, dippy as they often were, had
nonetheless moved the whole program along. Their was a stiffness to
Midget, the person, even though as a surfer he laid down some of
surfing’s most fluid, graceful tracks. He was uncompromising. It
made him great and it cost him dearly.
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros