The New York Times called his final work, Boner from the Stars, a 1400 page tome featuring experimental formatting and totally lacking punctuation, “A stunningly self indulgent screed that confuses at every turn. Lacking both form and substance, [Reynolds’s] latest work could have been written by a proverbial two monkeys in a mere twenty minutes.” Contrarily, The Paris Review praised the novel, saying, “Intentionally befuddling delivery aside, [Boner from the Stars] is Heinlein with half the fascism, but twice the misogyny.”

Happy Birthday Dane Reynolds!

But do you know the world's favorite-ish surfer's backstory?

Here’s a big Happy 31st Birthday to everyone’s favorite surfer, Dane Reynolds!

Conceived while his father, a demolitions expert and amateur tattooist, was on furlough from the Vietnam War, Danethon Leroy Reynolds is the oldest of fourteen illegitimate children.

Reynolds first rose to national prominence as a brash MFA student lauded for his series of groundbreaking science fiction erotica. Dane was, somewhat controversially, thrice nominated for both Hugo and Nebula awards, leading Isaac Aasimov and Arthur C Clarke to publish open letters denouncing both institutions.

The New York Times called his final work, Boner from the Stars, a 1400 page tome featuring experimental formatting and totally lacking punctuation, “A stunningly self indulgent screed that confuses at every turn. Lacking both form and substance, [Reynolds’s] latest work could have been written by a proverbial two monkeys in a mere twenty minutes.”

Contrarily, The Paris Review praised the novel, saying, “Intentionally befuddling delivery aside, [Boner from the Stars] is Heinlein with half the fascism, but twice the misogyny.”

What came next was a decades long struggle with food addiction and compulsive public nudity. Reynolds largely disappeared from the public eye until he became embroiled in a series of Hollywood A-list wife swapping scandals which ended in a highly publicized trial and six month period of involuntary commitment.

The period was documented by Gay Talese in a series of columns for The New Yorker titled, Man in the Box: A Boner Falls to Earth. Talese was widely criticized for his work, which was called by various sources, “Sensationalized,” “Nearly totally lacking literary merit,” and “Unnecessarily racist.”

Following the successful completion of his therapeutic stay Reynolds spent the next few years supporting himself with a series of odd jobs. Rarely able to retain employment for longer than a few weeks Dane worked, at various times, as a little league baseball umpire, longshoreman, unlicensed contractor, short order cook, unpasteurized dairy advocate, and motivational speaker.

In 1972 Reynolds suffered a relapse and was arrested on Sunset Blvd when he was found wandering the street nude demanding change from passers-by.

Due to his high blood alcohol content Reynolds was sentenced to three days in county jail. During his incarceration he suffered from a number of terrifying re-occurring nightmares he has often publicly mentioned, but refuses to fully discuss.

For unknown reasons Reynolds believed the dreams were a sign he should pursue a career as a professional surfer. After a mere two seasons of competition he was signed to a lucrative contract by Quiksilver, making him, for a time, the highest paid professional surfer in the world.

In 2011 Reynolds retired from competitive professional surfing, announcing he would be devoting his fortune to supporting the emerging French Bulldog social media market.

Dane briefly made headlines again in 2013 when paparazzi captured footage of him urinating in a public drinking fountain. Following a plea deal, which saw him sentenced to house arrest, Reynolds retreated to his Ventura County compound.

Reynolds house arrest eventually turned to voluntary hermitage. In 2015 Buzzfeed reported he would soon be releasing the first of a series of hip hop albums loosely based on the Kama Sutra, but the album failed to materialize.

Other than a series of bizarre profanity-laced Twitter rants in January of 2016, in which he blamed “dinosaur jew monsters” for the majority of society’s ills, little has been seen or heard of Reynolds in recent months.

Happy Birthday Dane Reynolds! (09-07-1985) (Instagram) from Norwell9 on Vimeo.


Chang: “He’d probably bareback a porpoise!”

For a mere $12,000.00 you can learn the art of surf photography from master Aaron Chang!

Do you ever wish you were really good at something? Like, exceptionally good? I do. All the time! I wish I was good at cooking or organizing or cleaning or responding to calls/emails or making lots of sound business decisions or writing business plans.

Or photography.

But guess what? I can go get good at that for a quick $12,000.00 with world-renowned photographer Aaron Chang! Should we read about a new offer in Forbes?

Spending a day on a coastal photo safari with veteran surf photographer Aaron Chang is like a cinematic fast cut through everything that’s iconic about Southern California. You get gorgeous beaches, stunning views, killer tacos, even that nagging sense of being trailed by a helicopter.

At 60, Chang is one of the world’s most accomplished ocean photographers, having shot more than 100 covers for Surfing magazine over 25 years. He’s devoted himself more recently to creating fine art prints of secret reefs and abstract sunsets for his San Diego galleries. Now, as part of an exclusive partnership with Four Seasons Residence Club Aviara, Chang is leading private daylong expeditions around (and above, thanks to a whirlybird) his favorite spots along the San Diego coast.

I’ve lived in California for 20 years. I’ve never surfed. Neither has my wife. We raised a theater kid. So it was with a mixture of excitement and sheer terror that Ruth, Sebastian and I abandoned our indoorsy plans for Labor Day weekend to embed ourselves with Chang and his snorkel-packing, Endless Summer-chasing adrenaline crew on a test run of the new offering, to be priced at $12,000 for the day, which includes meals, transportation, equipment and a two-night stay at the Residence Club for up to four guests.

We all meet up at dawn in the Aviara lobby for the Signing of the Waivers and sidelong glances for having kept our 13-year-old in dry dock even though we live near Venice Beach. In the Sprinter van to the ocean, Chang comes across as a genteel craftsman, albeit one who would probably bareback a porpoise if it meant getting the perfect photo. He’s that dedicated.

The family goes to Torrey Pines, somewhere and then learns to surf while dad hits the camera!

Photographing surfers is not impossible if you have equipment like Chang’s. You also need good timing. “The moment you sense something’s about to happen, just click, click, click,” he tells me as I look through his C 1D Mark lV. Chang’s 64 GB card has enough memory to shoot for hours so I basically Tommy-gun images as Ruth and Sebastian wade boldly where no Hochman has waded before. They’re both laying on their boards with instructors at their feet. Once they’re out far enough, Kyle and Connor turn their boards around, push them onto incoming waves and, lo, Ruth and Sebastian ride their first waves. I feel the emotions swelling but Chang instructs me to get the shot. “Click, click, click, click!”

Read the rest here! And are you inspired? Will you sign up?


WSL muzzles world number one!

John John silenced after criticizing 3x world champ Mick Fanning!

Do you remember when the World Surf League posted a candid interview to Instagram with the  world number one, and everyone’s favorite surfer, John John Florence?

Of course you do! It happened just three or so hours ago and was right here on BeachGrit!

The unimpeachable Derek Rielly wrote of the social media offering :

Now, as just revealed by the WSL’s social media wing, John John says that, yeah, he’ll compete at Trestles, but he ain’t gonna be throwing bombs.

“(The injury) feels fine… It’s just a matter of finding, like, where the little tweaks are and what’s going to hurt it,” says the current world number one.

“I think for the event, you know, I’m not going top be able to surf 100 per cent for sure… it’s a torn ligament in my knee… it’s going to be finding a good balance and surfing at eighty-five percent and … hopefully surfing through a couple of heats. It’s either doing that or pulling out of the event completely. I’d rather give it a try and surf like Mick to the finals.”

Cute!

Right?

Apparently not! Just moments ago the WSL disappeared the Instagram post and scrubbed it from their Facebook too. I have reached out to WSL media czar Dave Prodan as to the whys and wherefores but my inquiries have yet to be answered.

In the meantime, let’s speculate!

Was Mick Fanning so hurt by everyone’s favorite surfer claiming he surfs at “eighty-five percent” that he forced the powers that be to eliminate the offending material?

Did he call WSL CEO Paul Speaker and say:

Prior to the exchange with the reporter, I had refused to speak with him because I understood he had previously published articles which I believed were racist and anti-Semitic. I strongly object to views, statements and comments of that nature.

I acknowledge that my decision to use words that were inappropriate – albeit in an attempt to be ironic, knowing they were of the type favoured by him– was misjudged and wrong. I don’t have or condone any form of racist or, more particularly, anti-Semitic view.

Maybe?

Or did he say:

John John thinks I surf at less than full volume? Really? Did he really say that? Even after J-Bay when a shark attacked me? No. Shut up. It did attack me. You know what…just…just…whatever.

Or did he say:

Go white lightning you’re burning up the quarter mile
(White lightning go white lightning)
Go white lightning you’re coasting through the heat lap trial
(white lighting go white lightning)
You are supreme the chicks’ll cream for white lightning.

Possibly?

Or did he say…wait! Here’s WSL media czar Dave Prodan! He says:

Having not seen the clip, but rather reading the transcript (on the Grit!) my guess is that John was referencing Mick’s surfing in J-Bay where he won the event despite being injured. I don’t have the background but presume he requested it removed into avoid confusion. John, like most if not all surfers on tour has the upmost respect for 3x WSL Champ Mick Fanning.

Oooooooh that is a quick, and quality, spin. It is why Dave Prodan has a job. But I’m going with the first option. The… Prior to the exchange with the reporter one…

That’s why I don’t!


JJF injury: “I’ll surf like Mick Fanning!”

Knee injury means JJF will be operating at 85% capacity… 

Do you remember last week’s rumour that John John Florence would pull out of the Hurley Pro because of a knee injury?

“What if John John’s very clear championship run is derailed not by a Brazilian but by fate itself?” wrote Chas Smith. 

Now, as just revealed by the WSL’s social media wing, John John says that, yeah, he’ll compete at Trestles, but he ain’t gonna be throwing bombs.

“(The injury) feels fine… It’s just a matter of finding, like, where the little tweaks are and what’s going to hurt it,” says the current world number one.

“I think for the event, you know, I’m not going top be able to surf 100 per cent for sure… it’s a torn ligament in my knee… it’s going to be finding a good balance and surfing at eighty-five percent and … hopefully surfing through a couple of heats. It’s either doing that or pulling out of the event completely. I’d rather give it a try and surf like Mick to the finals.”

Do you think John John, with that face that is neither friendly nor unfriendly, gets looser of tongue, and more likeable, every single day?

Does the idea of John John throwing his rails around more than his tail thrill or does it paralyse your heart with disappointment?

Click below to listen!

@john_john_florence injury update #HurleyPro

A video posted by World Surf League (@wsl) on


And here's the sell from Sothebys: The Cotton Estate gained national prominence when, in 1927, it was featured in Architectural Digest. In 1970, the home would again appear in the magazine, this time featured as the cover photo and described as "The Western White House," highlighting the importance of its second owner, then-President Richard M. Nixon. La Casa Pacifica rests on one of Southern California's largest and most scenic sections of coastal residential real estate. It comprises two parcels totaling 5.45 acres, and the site features 450 lineal feet of beachfront. The entire compound sits behind private walls and fences. The property is mostly flat with a garden that gently slopes seaward. The natural elevation is ideally suited to maintain privacy and enhance the sweeping ocean, island, and sunset views. The beach is easily accessible from La Casa Pacifica's private gate. The primary design language is a romantic interpretation of Spanish Colonial Revival architecture. The gleaming white structures provide a perfect canvas for the vibrant colors and textures of the gardens, paving, and tile work. The period craftsmanship of La Casa Pacifica is superb—there are one-of-a-kind, hand-painted ceramic murals and tiles throughout the property, as well as original installations comprising patterned ceramic tiles characteristic of early California, Spanish, and Moorish designs. There is approximately 15,000 square feet among all the structures on the property, including a main residence of approximately 9,000 square feet; a pavilion, with a grand main room, bar, guest suite, and den; a two-bedroom guest house; pool and pool terrace; a lighted tennis court; a gazebo on the bluff; expansive lawns, formal and cutting gardens, vegetable and succulent gardens—many with exotic specimens; a greenhouse; multiple garages; a catering facility with separate entrance; a separate staff building with multiple garages, four staff residences with separate access; security annexes; as well as a private well for landscaping water. | Photo: Sothebys International Real Estate

Gimme: Nixon’s $69 Mill Trestles House!

Want to own a house that's the shortest of walks to the Hurley Pro? Buy here!

The Hurley Pro, as you know, is tuning up at the wave called Lowers, which is at the south end of the surf arena called Trestles. Further north is Uppers and even further around is the deep-water wave Cottons. Mostly, it ain’t much but in a big south-south-west swell and a light east wind? Oowee, she can boil.

If you’ve surfed there, you might’ve seen glimpses of the grand Spanish-style mansion called La Casa Pacifica that was owned by the American president Richard Nixon from 1969 until 1980. Located at 4100 Calle Isabella San Clemente, Nixon bought if off the original owner Hamilton H. Cotton’s widow and used it as a presidential hideaway, until he split back to New Jersey.

It’s a helluva spread. Almost six acres of beachfront land. And, today, you can own it for $US69 million which is a full six million dollars less than it was one year ago.

From the LA Times. 

The sprawling 5.45-acre compound occupies an ocean bluff in a gated enclave. While the 37th U.S. president lived there he replaced an existing tennis court with a swimming pool and built a 1,500-foot-long wall to enclose the property.

The California Colonial Revival main house, built in 1926, spans about 9,000 square feet with tile and hardwood flooring, arched doorways and detailed groin-vaulted ceilings. Many of the main rooms open to a center courtyard with a tiled fountain.

Among other features is an ocean-view office used by Nixon and an entertainment pavilion. Including a two-bedroom guesthouse, staff residences and offices, there are about 15,000 square feet of living space, nine bedrooms, nine full bathrooms, a three-quarter bathroom and four powder rooms.

A greenhouse, a pool, a tennis court, formal gardens and expanses of lawn complete the grounds. Views take in Santa Catalina Island, the open water and the coastline.

World leaders to have visited the property have included former Japanese Premier Eisaku Sato, former South Vietnamese President Nguyen Van Thieu and former Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev.

Crooner Frank Sinatra, actor John Wayne and the Rev. Billy Graham also made the guest list.

The property was priced at $75 million last year but was taken off the market after three months.

The seller of the oceanfront estate is former Allergan Pharmaceuticals Chief Executive Gavin S. Herbert, who bought the property from Nixon in the 1980s.

Shall we tour? Click! 

Want to buy from Sothebys International Realty? Click here to contact the agent!