Ian Walsh talks surfing Jaws. The lost files!
You have certainly seen the teaser for Ian Walsh’s new film Distance Between Dreams with the swirling passion, the guts, the glory. If, for some reason, you missed please click here.
I wrote, when the clip was released, about meeting with Ian Walsh under a warm Cardiff sky to discuss. Oh we had fun and I scribbled his descriptions of big wave surfing, Maui life etc. in my moleskin and then put it away, forgetting about it until just yesterday when I was flipping through and saw the phrase “Blue scary not brown scary” in reference to, I assume, Jaws.
There were more scribbles too but the context is unclear so I will just reprint here, context-free, and call this Ian Walsh Talks Surfing Jaws (Probably): The Lost Files. Like poetry!
Blue scary not brown scary.
Big waves. Dropout
everything bills (stills thrills?), feelin etc.
Only time I’m completely in one place, one goal
How fast everything moves
Football speed.
So much faster, the speed.
The wave is so
kind of have a general idea
part of surfing
Jaws… any big wave such a challenge
head down sending it the appreciation is so much more.
I like Ian, but I must admit that I find Anthony to be much more interesting. Are they brothers?
You know, there are some swell recording apps on your Iphone Chasercise! Or Samsung Galaxy! Is that a phone? I don’t know! Transcribing does suck though. I like the string of consciousness approach now that I think of it!
What’s a good one? I have looked but felt hamstrung by my lack of tech ability to choose correctly!
“Chasercise”
… Gold
I think Chas enjoys the separation of his interpretation and reality. Gives him much more room to work with.