It's a hard sell when you're fighting for onshore
scraps with self-centered assholes…
Dear Rory,
I have given the act of wave riding most of my best years.
I’m heading towards 40 now and still manage to spend a lot of time
in the water, but I can’t shake the feeling that I should be doing
something else. Surfing has given me a decent level of fitness but
there’s a thousand sports that will do the same without the time
commitment or the frustration levels. I’ve given so much time and
effort to becoming a slightly aging, average to competent surfer.
Is surfing worth it?
Sliding that Midlife Crisis
Dear Rory says: I really want to say, “Yes!
It’s totally worth it. Only a surfer knows the feeling. You’ve
become one with the aquatic mother Gaia. The rest of the world are
sad, unhip, dry-land losers.”
But that’d be a lie.
Truth be told, surfing is pretty much a waste of time. It
doesn’t improve anything. Doesn’t help anyone. We can try to
pretend that it’ll help you find an emotional center, serve as a
crutch as you struggle through your day to day. But that’s a hard
sell when you’re fighting for onshore scraps with your hundred
fellow self-centered assholes.
Surfing will never make you a better person. Judging by your
average wave slider it might actually make you a worse one.
Truth be told, surfing is pretty much a waste of time. It
doesn’t improve anything. Doesn’t help anyone. We can try to
pretend that it’ll help you find an emotional center, serve as a
crutch as you struggle through your day to day. But that’s a hard
sell when you’re fighting for onshore scraps with your hundred
fellow self-centered assholes.
But the nice thing about life… there’s no point. You’re just
gonna put one foot in front of the other until you drop dead.
Hopefully in some sort of awesome explosion, or a naked lady
avalanche. The latter being my choice of demise.
The real problem with surfing is that we all treat it as part of
our identity. I know I do. It’s in there with the other labels I
apply to myself. Writer, lover, diver, really-big-penis-haver,
surfer. In that order.
And that’s a bit of a curse. What do you do when you realize you
don’t love your own identity? It’s a part of growing up, for sure,
and we all go through it at some point or another. But getting hit
with that realization hammer well into adulthood absolutely fucking
sucks.
What to do?
Just quit for a bit. When surfing stops being fun, stop doing
it. Maybe for a short period. Maybe for forever. It just doesn’t
matter. Nothing does.
You’ll lose your tan, your shoulder muscles will wither, but
odds are that one day you’ll wake up and feel like going for a
surf. You’ll have fun. Rediscover the stoke. Yeah, your ability
will suffer, but who cares? It’s not like any of us are that good
to begin with.
Take up another hobby in the meantime. Feel free to keep it
ocean related. Those big salty bodies of water hold a never ending
source of fun and excitement.
Freediving is very fun. It dovetails well with ocean experience.
It’s got an awesome, always lurking, potential for death. And
there’s really no better way to feel alive than by dancing at the
edge of the void.
Caught in a jam? Stuck in a pickle? Send your life questions
to [email protected]. Due to volume Rory cannot respond to
every letter.