But overall the day reminded me of a sub-par run at
Hossegor…
It was a glorious day on Oahu. Sunny, but not
hot. Breezy, but not windy. A tiny bite of Autumn in the air. The
type of weather for which you yearn, but only get for a week or two
each trip around the sun.
If only round one of the Pipe Masters had been as good.
Not to say the surf was bad. Laniakea looked great as I drove
past. Pupukea was damn close to firing. It’s usually a fairly soft
wave, every once in a while turns on, gets scary. It wasn’t quite
there, but it had some beef. Some power. Log Cabins looked outright
terrifying. But I’m just straight scared of that wave, ever since I
got cocky, got caught, and hit the bottom so hard I thought I was
going to shit my pants.
Skateboarders call that an ‘oops-poops.’
The swell was swinging in from the North/Northeast, which is
hardly ideal for Pipe. You want some West in it. Failing that, more
North. You definitely don’t want any East. Makes it swing out to
sea, line up to Off the Wall. Weird combination of punchy and
backed-off. Lines up for a race track, but doesn’t pile on the reef
and heave. More Gums than Pipe. More bad than good.
It’s a good thing that the title is already decided, that we’re
not taking the first step toward crowning a world champ in what
amounts to a coin flip.
There were some highlights. I thought Finn McGill, my new
favorite grom, had his heat on lock with a last minute dredger
somewhere around Ain’ts. The judges disagreed, left him a full two
points short of what he needed. Which is far enough off that I
suspect my awe had to do with the angle. People look much deeper
when watching from a hundred yards towards Rockies.
Slater did an insane floater just past Backdoor. Absolutely
terrifying. He had no right to absorb the rebound and ride out.
But overall the day reminded me of a sub-par run at Hossegor.
Good turns, heavy lips. But not the run-and-gun barrel-fest we all
desperately want to see.
Which is why I got bored, decided to play instead of sit on the
bleachers and watch.
I lost interest early, while Medina, Irons, and Igarashi were
getting ready to paddle out. Medina was mobbed by every Brazilian
on the beach. They sure are a vocal bunch.
I stared at Rosie.
Bruce Irons looked like he’d just left the club. Aviator shades,
peroxide blonde hair slicked straight back. Looking gaunt, not fit.
No surprise Igarashi outpointed him at the break Irons once made
his own. I’m hardly one to cast stones regarding a person’s choice
of health regimen, but he truly does not look well. And it’s time,
probably past due, to face the fact that he no longer deserves a
spot based solely on his name and history. It’s unfortunate to see
the once mighty fall, but wildcard spots come dear, and these days
there are far more deserving souls.
I decided to swim from Ehukai toward Gas Chambers, bodysurf the
lefts the Pupukea crowd was leaving unridden. It was the typical
shit show out there. Slim tan girls in micro bottoms, surfing far
better than their ilk did not long ago. Visitors in far over their
heads, getting their first small taste of Hawaiian power. Paddling
for every wave, backing off every drop. Shoulder hopping each
other. Getting in the way. A handful of tiny boys played big-wave
hero, stroking into sets at least quadruple overhead. Middle aged
men on beefy shortboards showed glimpses of former talent.
Slater appeared from nowhere, grabbed the wave of the day,
disappeared.
I had fun, enjoyed a long swim, managed to grab a few worth the
effort. Wished I brought a board with me, but I’m not that much of
a hypocrite. You don’t bring boards to a contest. Mine were at the
rental, Waialua distance away.
I met a few fellow media dorks, complained about our lack of
coddling. The “interview bullpen” is now erected, a five by ten
foot piece of sand with no one around. It’s very obvious that the
WSL doesn’t want to share, and I understand why. But you think
someone would realize, it’s far easier to control the narrative
when you include and corrupt people, rather than leave them to
their own devices.
Worst job of the day goes the employees of Sustainable
Coastlines. Poor fucking kids. I caught two of the girls sneaking
cigarettes in the bushes. I gave a nod and left them to it. They
deserved the moment of peace.
Picking through trash bins, sorting recyclables from
compostables from plain old landfill bound garbage; no one deserves
that. All the receptacles are well labeled, you’d need to be dumb
or lazy to use the wrong one. Unfortunately for the worker bees the
world has no shortage of either.
I cornered one girl during her break, asked if the job was as
bad as I thought. Are they constantly pulling bags of dog shit from
among the cans and bottles?
“I wish,” she said. “We’re used to that. It’s the diapers that
are the worst.”
She was a true believer, eager to talk about the good they’re
doing. I’m not so sure, tend to believe they’re ameliorating damage
done, rather than improving on pre-existing conditions. But she was
cute and kind and I didn’t feel like shitting on her parade. So I
heard her out.
Whatever my feelings regarding efficacy, it’s nice to see that
some people truly care.
Results
Billabong Pipe Masters Round 1 Results:
Heat 1: Julian Wilson (AUS) 15.07, Wiggolly Dantas (BRA) 8.60, Ryan
Callinan (AUS) 8.50
Heat 2: Miguel Pupo (BRA) 11.40, Kolohe Andino (USA) 9.33, Bede
Durbidge (AUS) 5.40
Heat 3: Matt Wilkinson (AUS) 13.34, Frederico Morais (PRT) 13.27,
Nat Young (USA) 12.40
Heat 4: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 12.60, Keanu Asing (HAW) 10.83, Finn
McGill (HAW) 10.50
Heat 5: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 15.10, Kanoa Igarashi (USA) 11.24,
Bruce Irons (HAW) 3.40
Heat 6: John John Florence (HAW) 16.66, Jadson Andre (BRA) 10.27,
Gavin Beschen (HAW) 7.84
Heat 7: Alex Ribeiro (BRA) 11.27, Adriano de Souza (BRA) 10.54,
Conner Coffin (USA) 10.27
Heat 8: Jeremy Flores (FRA) 9.00, Stuart Kennedy (AUS) 9.00, Joel
Parkinson (AUS) 8.77
Heat 9: Filipe Toledo (BRA) 12.34, Josh Kerr (AUS) 12.03, Adam
Melling (AUS) 9.37
Heat 10: Kelly Slater (USA) 12.70, Kai Otton (AUS) 11.90, Caio
Ibelli (BRA) 11.50
Heat 11: Italo Ferreira (BRA) 10.50, Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 10.20,
Jack Freestone (AUS) 9.07
Heat 12: Michel Bourez (PYF) 14.24, Adrian Buchan (AUS) 14.23,
Davey Cathels (AUS) 13.23
Billabong Pipe Masters Round 2 Match-Ups:
Heat 1: Kolohe Andino (USA) vs. Gavin Beschen (HAW)
Heat 2: Adriano de Souza (BRA) vs. Bruce Irons (HAW)
Heat 3: Joel Parkinson (AUS) vs. Finn McGill (HAW)
Heat 4: Sebastian Zietz (HAW) vs. Frederico Morais (PRT)
Heat 5: Adrian Buchan (AUS) vs. Bede Durbidge (AUS)
Heat 6: Caio Ibelli (BRA) vs. Ryan Callinan (AUS)
Heat 7: Josh Kerr (AUS) vs. Adam Melling (AUS)
Heat 8: Stuart Kennedy (AUS) vs. Kai Otton (AUS)
Heat 9: Conner Coffin (USA) vs. Jack Freestone (AUS)
Heat 10: Wiggolly Dantas (BRA) vs. Davey Cathels (AUS)
Heat 11: Nat Young (USA) vs. Jadson Andre (BRA)
Heat 12: Keanu Asing (HAW) vs. Kanoa Igarashi (USA)
Women’s Pipe Invitational Results:
1 – Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) 17.00
2 – Tyler Wright (AUS) 10.00
3 – Carissa Moore (HAW) 7.23