When the wave breaks here...
If this don’t bring a smile to your crusty old grill, nothing will!
What’s more fun than seeing grown men hurled henceforth by the unkempt ferocity of four-foot shore pound? Certainly not doing it yourself, unless you enjoy the sensation of sand in every crevice and the off-chance of paralyzation.
After a personal accident at an undisclosed California shorebreak (just kidding it’s Seal Beach! A little north of Huntington! Hey Jake!), I’ve come to fear the condensed power of near-shore breaks and pretty much avoid them altogether. But that doesn’t mean I won’t watch them all day long!
You’ll notice that everyone in this video is riding a Beater. These boards may be corny but they also perfectly capture the anti-depressive nature of our sport. If you ever want to ensure a palatable surf session, take out something bright and buoyant. You won’t impress or progress but it’ll eliminate any chance of quitting surfing or worse, a cranky drive home.
When you ride a Beater or WaveStorm or something of the like, every sideways ripple becomes an opportunity for fun. You can switch stance, cheater-five, or if you’re anything like the lunatics in the video below, air-drop to imminent destruction. Best of all, snaking rules don’t apply. If someone gets mad, just throw ‘em a shaka and say something like, “Thanks for sharing the nectar vibes, my dude!”
Still not sand-proof, though. Remember that.