Every single wave exposed on film becomes a surf ghetto. True or true?
How about this absolute truth? Every single wave revealed for the first time on film has become a surf ghetto. Don’t matter how good you hide where it is. No exceptions.
Count ’em: Bali. The Mentawais. Namibia. Hossegor. Morocco. Fiji. Puerto Escondido. Overrun with sonsofbitches in their so-called “camps” with nothing else to talk about except waves ridden, how many seconds behind the curtin they’re logging and where their next tubefest is going to be.
You show a good wave. People are gonna find it.
So any sort of concern that Mick’s empty sandbottom point, which blew up three days ago, might get exposed is a dazzling naivety.
Of course it will.
Just as Rip Curl’s beautifully produced Search films in the nineties brought the world to the Ments, and all those P-Pass photos and clips had us chasing a difficult-to-get-to reef in Micronesia, Mick’s clip has just opened a new gate.
First, the explorers will come. Then, the tour guides. Then, you and me.
Watching the lights flash all over that empty point reminded me of another wave The Search illuminated. Do you remember when The Rip Curl Search Pro went to Barra de la Cruz or, as it was coyly named, “La Jolla”, in 2006?
It was the surf contest that affirmed everything good about the game. An impossibly perfect sandbottom point most people had no idea existed. Professionals who’d been everywhere calling it the best wave they’d ever surfed, the best contest ever. Best-evers dripping through the floor. Andy Irons, who won the event, nailing the biggest frontside air in competition. The longest tubes seen in an event since Kirra was a thing.
The world watched the live webcast with mouths agape.
The contest rewrote the expectation of what a perfect wave might look like. It’s doubtful there was a regular footer on earth who didn’t make kind of vague plan to ride the joint before they expired.
And, soon, the crowds arrive at the little town mid-way between Puerto Escondido and Salina Cruz. The council built a cabana and bathrooms on the beach for the influx of visitors. The coastal road was gated and an entry fee levied.
Tourism. Jobs. Money. Who could argue with the capitalist ideal of the free market bringing wealth to the poor?
And then it went to shit.
Why?
As Surfer Magazine’s Kimball Taylor wrote in 2015,
Citizens were becoming proud of their little town. The beach cabaña evolved into a symbol of their new economy. So when not long after the contest the historically wild river mouth that emptied near the point began to threaten the cabaña with erosion, Barra’s council decided to move the entire river to the east. According to a local surfer named Cesar, this is when sand began to disappear from the break. The river, Cesar indicated in hindsight, was the source of the wave’s magic. Without a periodic infusion of river sand, a hole soon began to develop in the sandbar. A tropical cyclone exacerbated the situation, and by 2010 the most phenomenal sand point the pro tour had ever seen was a shadow of its former self.
The town council, meanwhile, citing the prohibitive expense of the cabaña, refused to return the river to its original course.
Visiting surfers would show up, take a look at the wounded pointbreak, and head down to the newest surf-world hotspot: Salina Cruz.
Tourism business disappeared as steadily as the sand.
A wave found. A wave celebrated. A wave ruined.
Where to, you think, for Mick’s Point?
Has anyone actually surfed La Barra as good as it was in that contest or did they get the swell of the year? I surfed that place twice, once before and once after the comp was held and it was no more than a fun rippable right. It was also well know amongst the pro’s before the search comp, Taj, Jake Paterson and Luke Hitchings (remember that cunt) were all there the first time I surfed it.
I heard of it being good and saw it good but nothing like the Search. I think it was a major alignment with sand from the river rather than actual swell. The local chaps with guns on the locked gate sort of put me off. I’d rather make one wave in a hundred at Puerto than risk getting burnt at a stake down at Barra.
The second time I went, about a year after the comp, it was still pretty chilled apart from the odd “fuck Rip Curl” graffiti and the disabled kid was still at the gate.
ahhhh, I will investigate. cheers snail.
Spot fucking on, thank you
Or is it that surfers are generally just selfish cunts who don’t like sharing but are such showoffs they have to share.
ask the billionaire that owns GoPro
Do regular people go to Skeleton Bay? I’ve never seen a shot of that wave with anybody other than the handful of pros who are on the trip in the lineup.
i’m sure, they just don’t make a drop. Twiggy wrote about it.
Global warming contributes to mush burgers !
Is beach grit upset that fanning released his web clip before you guys? Or is it just a slow surf news week.
Scoring “on the road” will always be one of surfing’s prized experiences. The problem lies in the boat/camp/lodge deal that makes what was once an adventure, now an easy trip for the masses.
Off the grid and rugged tends to keep the crowds down.
Surfing brings out the worst in people! I look forward to the big onshore days now.
Confused if this is depressive or anti-depressive Beach Grit comment?
Surfing good, feel good, anti-depressive!
Yeah it’s not like G-land has been ruined. Discovered, yeah, celebrated, yeah, but ruined? I bet a lot of guys who got stupidly barrelled there this year wouldn’t say it was ruined.
what about Bondi?
has Longtom been killed?
my compy blew up and with it so much shite gone.
Shit! The novel backed up to the hard-drive?
nope. Gone. need to start again.
My condolences…
I think it’s fair to say that Fukushima has become a fond memory. Also Snapper you’d have to say.
Here on the Gulf Coast of Florida we have a super rare wave. Only breaks a handful of times a year so best of luck getting here for a real swell, it’s as rare as it gets. When it does break our local surf shop owner, who is an ass clown, broadcasts it with a megaphone. Does it to sell 2$ bars of wax and leashes. Money is ultimately the root of all evil boys, and that ain’t about to change. Local spots, moreover local surfers, pay the ultimate price.
order wax on Amazon, what a nightmare
You are in the know!
Capt. I have an artist friend your way smooth style. Spoke of the rarest of wave. Wonder how his fiddle playing is going?
Ryan Ivy? Or the devil? Ha! Only artist I know with that butter smooth style.
Will Corr
Don’t know him. Looked up his art, nice stuff.
Cant stop sharing or making these awesome films because newsflash there are assholes amongst us that ruin shit.
everything good smells like money to somebody
Can you imagine still surfing your local closeout because know one ever told you about a better wave to surf. Stupid!
Can you imagine a brave new world where telephones and where the ubiquitous filmer are… left behind?
Umm yeah the 1970s, when Tavarua, G-Land, J-Bay, Puerto Escondido, Mundaka, Kalbarri, Mauritius and about four hundred other waves were popularised. If you think this stuff is a problem and you don’t want to add to it, stay at home.
yeah but nah, the acceleration and scope of exposure and subsequent surf ghetto-ism from instant global publication is different not just in degree, but in kind.
not the same as the Forgotten Island of Santosha….where it took, what? years before Mauritius became a destination, by which time there was somewhere else.
Ments in the 90’s, maybe. That was a feeding frenzy par excellence.
I guess what I am trying to point out is that this is just human behaviour at work. And it’s not so much how you judge it as how you choose to behave.
i wouldn’t tell my rich friends shit. not even my poor friends that are looking to come up. its whether you look at these things as an experience or an opportunity.
I’d like to predict some sort of utopian society where we don’t share anything but Black Mirror is becoming more and more a reality.
Does anyone watch the old clips of Gerry and compatriots at Ulus and think the wave too has lost its teeth? Perhaps with all of the development on the cliff and with too many turkeys walking on the reef it’s a duller version than what what it once was.
Gerry’s quote …”local’s are the ones that don’t have their act together enough to travel” or something. Always kinda bummed me out.