Are you more scared or less scared to surf in
southern California?
More details have been released about the woman
attacked by a shark at the surf break Church between San Onofre and
Lowers and they are heartbreaking. She is a mother of three
children from Vista, California. Her mother has set up a
GoFundMe (donate
here!) where she explains the physical damage:
Leeanne was swimming at San Onofre state beach on April 29th
2017 and was attacted by a shark. It tore her right back leg from
her glute to her knee. The Doctors also say that she drowned when
the shark pulled her under. She’s now in Scripps Memorial Hospital
fighting for her life. She is a single mom with three young
children who depend on her.
Brutal but the details surrounding the attack itself remain
murky. Initial rumor had it that she was simply wading in the water
wearing swim fins. Some even had it that she was cruising the
shorebreak on a Boogie. Another rumor today had it that she was
trying to rescue and injured baby seal.
I heard last night from a crew of very fine San Clemente locals
that she actually was on the beach. Her male friend was on a SUP
and out the back. She wanted to go visit him so kicked out
past the surf on a Boogie. When she got there a baby seal jumped,
very scared, onto the nose of her male friend’s SUP. At that point
she turned to swim back in and was grabbed.
Doesn’t this seem very far fetched? It does to me. Like, surfers
trying to find justification for why they won’t get attacked.
Do you have any more information about this attack? Did you see
the drone images of all the sharks hanging out in southern Orange
County?
Yikes or who cares?
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Freedom: Surf icon released from jail!
By Chas Smith
Kevin Reed is let go and all charges for murder are
dropped!
Yesterday, if you happened to swing by, you
read the very tragic
story of Kevin Callaghan née Reed, an iconic Santa
Cruz surfer and the first man, maybe, to ever kick an air.
He had fallen upon hard times and was living on the beach where
he was arrested on suspicion of murdering another homeless man.
Legendary Santa Cruz shaper Bob Pearson commented:
“You drive by homeless, you hear it a bunch of times: Don’t
judge the people, you don’t know who he is, who she is, where
they’re from, what happened to them and what’s going on in their
life,” Pearson said. “I’m sure he has been judged wrong by a lot, a
lot of people. It’s unfortunate, some people just fall through the
cracks.”
Well today there is a bit of good news for Mr. Callaghan. He has
been released from jail without any charges being filed! Let’s read
in the Santa Cruz
Sentinel.
A 58-year-old Santa Cruz man and well-known surfing pioneer
arrested on suspicion of murder Sunday morning was released and all
charges dropped on Tuesday.
“After careful review of the evidence submitted by the Santa
Cruz Police Department, and autopsy findings provided by theSheriff’s Coroner’s office, the District Attorney’s Office has
determined there is insufficient evidence to charge Kevin Callahan
regarding the death of Steven Lee. Kevin Callahan has since been
released from custody,” according to a release from the Santa Cruz
County District Attorneys Office on Tuesday.
Santa Cruz police have reclassified of Lee’s demise as a
“suspicious death” and consider Callahan a “person of interest,”
department spokeswoman Joyce Blaschke said Tuesday. Callahan
previously went by the name Kevin Reed.
Blaschke said the department stands by the District
Attorney’s Office and its “sound decision” to release Callahan.
However, Callahan’s arrest, she said, was based on probable cause,
including his own admissions, witness reports, evidence of an
apparent struggle around Lee’s body and Callahan’s proximity to the
body the next morning.
“At this point, because the coroner’s report is
inconclusive. There isn’t a conclusive cause of death. We can’t
rule it a homicide because we don’t know how or why he died,”
Blaschke said. “This all hinges on the coroner’s report. It makes
sense as part of our legal process that we would err on the side of
caution.”
A very fine turn of events.
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Dion Agius: “This is just ridiculous!”
By Chas Smith
Is the World Surf League fat shaming one of its
stars?
Pioneering professional surfer from Tasmania
Dion Agius is mad as hell and he’s not going to take it anymore. A
few hours ago he took to Instagram and poured
fire on the World Surf League, posting a still from the WSL’s
latest Brazil promotion and writing:
Is this really for real. What on earth is @wsl trying to
turn surfing into? Who is approving this? 195 lbs of BOOM? Have a
look at the latest Instagram clip promoting the next Brazil event
and tell me this shit isn’t getting out of hand.
I sprinted to the League’s feed and watched the video.
“Hey John, good news! Yellow jersey. Bad news… These guys want
it and they’re comin’ after you with 194 lbs of boom, high flying
wizardry, relentless fight. oh and… there are 29 focused, gritty,
hungry, sharp warriors chasing you too. So watch out in
Brazil.”
And Dion is right. Fat shaming Jordy Smith would be
inappropriate in any context but it feels particularly
inappropriate wrapped in strange neo-dubstep.
While initial reactions take
one side or the other or highlight the
obviously ridiculous police response, each side represents the
demographics of surfers that have been ruining lineups across
California for years.
On one side, we have the middle-aged, failed-pro who sits way on
the outside, reminisces about surf trips and has gained so much
weight he rides a shortboard with more volume than a Laird
paddleboard. He’s now a forklift-certified warehouse manager at one
of his old sponsors, still takes surfing too competitively and
hoots you off every set wave
he catches.
Then, you have the grom. He has unusually blond hair, rides a
brand new custom board and when you see him paddle out with
two other friends, all smiles and hope, you curse under your breath
again. The kids paddle back-and-forth, back-and-forth, across the
peak you had all to yourself about 30 minutes ago. They catch an
unreasonable amount of waves and are constantly yapping about how
sick their last air was. All on a wave you didn’t even look at for
a second. Thankfully, mom or dad appear on the beach with video
cameras, tell them how spectacular they are, and reinforce
ignorance to the fact they’re chasing a pipe dream.
And then there’s us (or just me), who enjoy surfing, but don’t
do it as much as they’d like.
We surf sporadically, sometimes waiting a month for a good
swell.
We remember how fun it is, and proceed to binge on surfing in
the next week.
The cycle repeats.
We aren’t all that good, but we do it because of what surfing
is, an inexplicably peaceful and unmatchable connection to nature’s
energy. Just really damn cool. And fun.
When one or both of the parties described above are present,
howevs, it kind of ruins it. It turns a relaxing time into a
competition of who can be a bigger dick and backpaddle the
furthest. Trading waves isn’t an option for them. They’re
programmed to be competitive no matter the environment.
I wish I could offer some solution, but it’s just the result of
living in a surf-industry populated area, a place where surfing was
turned from a passion into a business.
But there’s still those days.
When Surfline messed up the forecast for a mid-sized
swell met with unexpected offshores. And the assholes are
one-upping each other elsewhere, still searching for that
validation from their parents.
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Bloodfeud Update: Angry Locals Join
In!
By Michael Ciaramella
Is child abuse ever the answer?
Oh how quickly the internet moves! Just three
hours ago I published a piece talking about the territory
dispute between sharks and radioactive waste in Orange
County, only to discover that there is a third party involved. They
refer to themselves as “Aging Creek Rats” and reside,
apparently, somewhere in the Dana Point region.
How did the Aging Creek Rats throw their hat in the
ring? By dunking (and “stabbing”, if you ask the mom) an
overzealous preteen at Salt Creek beach! I’ll let Ryan Divel, an
Orange County local and ex industry big-wig, paint the picture:
While Divel has made his position clear, this
remains a tricky subject. How does one deal with a child who,
based on many accounts, has been disrespectful in the lineup?
Is it the job an anonymous adult to not only scold, but use
physical force to deter the kid’s misdeeds?
I think not.
People often moan about how kids were more respectful back
in the day, how they “knew their place in the lineup”,
which may very well be true. But is this not similar to
how black people “knew their place” in the ’50s? We live in a
time where it’s no longer acceptable to segregate based on race, to
hit somebody’s kids.
I would’ve hoped that was a widely approved progression, but
apparently not.
The overwhelming majority of commenters in Divel’s Facebook post
are pro-hazing, anti-child-safety laws. This is concerning but also
speaks to surfing’s unique and violent history. The ocean is one of
the last places where Jungle Rules still apply, and it seems the
mission of most Baby Boomers to keep it that way.
Some of the top comments include:
I’m going to come out of
retirement just to snake this kook.
Sorry I’m not a round to hold it down any
more 👊
A snowflake mouths off, gets dealt with, and his mommie
comes to the rescue with the entire o.c.sheriff squad
?So wrong on multiple levels.. LOCALS
ONLY, BEAT IT GROM!
One could easily assume most of these overgrown
children were Trump supporters, but using the term “snowflake”
non-ironically is conclusive evidence. On the bright side, their
mindset reminds me of a favorite quote from Czech-French
author Milan Kundera:
In the sunset of dissolution, everything is illuminated by
the aura of nostalgia, even the guillotine.
Isn’t that wonderful?
Now, while I do believe that adults, locals, and any combination
of the two should be given reasonable deference in the
lineup, in no way does the opposite justify a physical response
against a child. Even if just a dunking.
If London is as disrespectful as Divel (and many of the
commenters) make him out to be, then it’s time to
speak with the parents. By physically harassing a kid and then
shaming him on social media, you’re not only breaking the law, but
you’re blaming the wrong person.
Ian Cairns delivered his two cents, here:
Maybe promoting #snakelondon is not the correct way to
de-escalate the problem. Maybe hazing groms is not acceptable
anymore. Maybe accepting the long-time practice of ‘locals’ owning
a surf spot is a little archaic. Yeah, sure London needs to chill a
little, but he’s no different than thousands of other groms,”
responded Cairns on the thread. “What if an ‘elder’ was proposing a
worldwide vendetta on your kid? And it was being acted out in front
of your eyes? Is it right? London and his family are good people.
And maybe they are here to help us re-evaluate the hierarchal
structure that condones this kind of bullying. But be certain, they
are not going away, they will be calling the cops on anyone that
lays hands on their kids and it will bring a public spotlight on
petty localism in CA. Are you willing to step up and be an agent of
positive change?
This, to me, is the most rationale response. Show the kid how he
can improve, urge the parents to instill better values, but Jesus,
don’t resort to child abuse or online bullying.
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros