Is it true? Is your surfing an accurate reflection of who you are?
Yesterday, on the Instagram account @reportsfromhell, which is operated by BeachGrit’s Chas Smith, there appeared the following post.
How u Surf Is who u r.
It’s a good question.
An absorbing aphorism revealed on the tailgate of a pick-up, not a little unlike, say, the apparitions of the Virgin Mary sixty years ago in Garabandal.
Think: Does your surfing reflect your true personality?
If you’re a little tight in the ass, wound up like hell, does your surfing naturally suffer? Do your turns lack a smooth elegance?
If you’re beautiful and free and ain’t a care in the world, is your surfing looser? Does it make you a throwaway air kinda guy?
If you’re meticulous, do you eat up every single section before safely tagging the end closeout?
If you take a moral view of everything, do you make a mental account of who’s catching what and y’get all worked up if someone bucks the natural order?
Or is the whole concept too damn confronting?
I’m a superficially happy guy masking a lifetime of despair and hopelessness, more sad sack than showman.
And I think it shows.