'BFGoodrich will feature a custom surf garage at the Vans U.S. Open of Surfing in Huntington Beach, Calif. (PRNewsfoto/BFGoodrich Tires)'

Fuckin Boom: WSL snags new sponsor!

Our World Surf League just snagged a new sponsor and I think you’re gonna like it. I think you’re gonna be very pleased.

I’m still in Copenhagen, staying up late with the gorgeous summer sun, riding bikes and enjoying comfortable footwear. If you have never been here it is well worth a trip. The Danes are proud of what they have built, as they should be. Raping, pillaging, raping and pillaging during those viking seasons has paid off handsomely and now there are many Michelin stars and many bottles of natural wine.

Speaking of Michelin stars FUCKIN BOOM! Our World Surf League just snagged a new sponsor and I think you’re gonna like it. I think you’re gonna be very pleased.

Who?

Why BFGoodrich Tires of course. Or Tyres for when the tour is at Snapper, Bells and not Marg River. Every surfer knows the feeling of walking into Tires Plus or Tires Etc. and shopping for tires. Running ginger hands along the grooves, pulling those little rubber stubbly hair things and watching them snap back. Life is better in radials and the options for ad copy etc. is endless.

What does the press release say? Oh, it says:

Whether conquering extreme off-road trails, getting to remote fishing holes or accessing an isolated surfing spot, BFGoodrich consumers are always building for their next adventure. At the Vans U.S. Open of Surfing, BFGoodrich will bring a customized garage built for surfing adventures to the shores of Huntington Beach.

The garage will feature surfing accessories and the latest must-have equipment for serious off-road adventure enthusiasts – the BFGoodrich® Mud-Terrain T/A® KM3, an extreme off-road tire with better climbing, traction and toughness in mud and over rock.

“Partnering with the World Surf League is a natural fit for BFGoodrich. The surfing community seeks adventure and performance. They need vehicles and tires that can be depended on to get them wherever their passions lead them, even if it’s far off the pavement,” said Jess Parris, BFGoodrich brand communications director.

Damn it. I didn’t read the press release before starting and am frustrated that the tyres are not going to be at Snapper, Bells and not Margs.

Sorry.


Genius: Matt Biolos and Elon Musk create Tesla Surfboard fashioned in black carbon!

A $1500 limited-edition board by the genius that created the Lost empire and Tesla's Elon Musk.

I have a girlish fascination with Elon Musk, the South African billionaire and futurist whose can-do attitude leaves me feeling passive and dumb.

Shall we count the ways he’s changed the world? The satellite biz that proved private enterprise can compete against the Russkis, the Americans and the Chinese in the space race, the hyperloop that’s gonna revolutionise travel, electric cars so fast they jerk your eyes wide open and smash frail bodies against the vegan-friendly faux leather seats.

What’s not to love etc?

A few moments ago, another man for whom I burn a candle (although this has dimmed slightly in recent months due to pressure from a rival publisher), Matt Biolos, announced a surfboard collaboration with  Musk’s car biz, Tesla.

From the presser: “The Limited Edition Tesla Surfboard features a mix of the same high-quality matte and gloss finishes used on all our cars. The deck is reinforced with light-weight “Black Dart” carbon fiber, inspired by the interiors in our cars, and featuring tonal logos in subtle contrast gloss. Model S, X and 3 can comfortably accommodate this surfboard on either the inside or outside of the vehicle. Each surfboard is custom made to order. Only 200 will be produced. Please allow 2-10 weeks for production and delivery.”

The shape, according to Biolos, is “a contemporary short board scaled up and refined for performance.”

Fins not included.

Buy direct from the Tesla website here. 


Ryan Burch: “If you have enough speed you can do anything!”

Conversations with a surf junkie.

Ryan Burch has cut an innovative path through surfing. I can remember seeing his section in Psychic Migrations, sitting there at the premier in the multiplex in Fashion Island, which is about as Orange County as a girl can get. There’d been an accident on the 405, of course, and I got there late, too late to score a beer before the film started. I was in a bad mood, thanks to the traffic and the lack of beer.

Then I saw Burch, piloting his tiny, self-shaped 5’2” fish along beautiful green walls and my mood lifted. His surfing felt fresh. Suddenly, I was happy. I love how unpredictable he is – one day on a fish, then on a longboard, then riding a block of unglassed foam, because why the hell not.

“I can take anything I want that floats out into the ocean and you know, express myself on it,” he told me. That idea feels essential to surfing – whether you want to ride a fish or some sort of asymmetric invention or a clear-glassed thruster.

Earlier this spring, I called up Burch to talk about shaping. Here’s an excerpt from our conversation.

How did you get into shaping?

I started shaping belly boards [Paipos] . Also, wooden alaias after that. I could go to Home Depot and get some pieces of Douglas fir and sand on it and hit it with the tools just like a piece of foam. But I wouldn’t make a lot of mess and I was doing it on my mom’s patio, so that was pretty important to make it easy to clean up and non-toxic.

As soon as I got the opportunity to use a friend’s shaping bay. That’s when I shaped my first board, when I was 20, I used my friend’s Chris Cravey’s shaping bay and he taught me how to make a longboard. And then it was, I probably had more fun building the board than actually riding it. That’s what got me hooked.

Who has influenced your ideas about board design?

Yeah, for sure there are. The fish came from Steve Lis, so I’ve always kind of admired what he had done with it and kind of followed the principles that he had laid down a long time ago with the fish design. And then with shaping, I’ve learned a lot from Rich Pavel. He was a really good shaper and he really taught me a variety of different kinds of boards and different kinds of design theories. And so I think I learned the most from him as far as actually shaping surfboards.

There’s Carl Ekstrom with the asymmetrical thing and just free thinking and going outside the box. He’s always been a huge inspiration with that and making shaping seem like it’s not like within the parameters of the PU blank and traditional fiber glass. He really thinks of alternative ways to make a board.

And then a lot of guys who are more designers than shapers also inspire me. Like my friend Richard Kenvin, who does the Hydronamica thing. He’s been a huge inspiration to me — just knowing a certain type of board, and like, identifying it and having his theory on it and relating it to a skate, progressive style. So he’s been a big inspo.

Same with Joel Tudor, because he’s such a longboard aficionado or snob, whatever you may call it. He seems to know what the best stuff is. He always seems to give me a pretty open opinion about what he thinks of the last board I shaped.

How does your surfing influence your board designs?

They’re directly related. I feel like the different types of boards are like different genres. It’s like different genres of music and learning to play them all, you need to know what you’re getting into from the start. So the way I ride a longboard is different from the way I ride one of the asymmetric shortboards. But it’s all connected, because it’s all surfing. You’re still out there trying to time a wave and trying to predict what’s going to happen.

What are you riding most often right now?

My go-to at the moment is, I’ve been really excited about making these little twin fin, pickle-fin, asymmetric boards. I guess for good waves, they’re like my normal shortboards and step-ups. I’ve been honing in a design with those that I want to ride everywhere when the waves are really good.

And I also been making some more California-friendly twinfin fishes. Different variations of it, using different fin types. For more gutless waves, using more pivotal fins. And then for the better, faster waves, using the traditional keel fins. And then just noseriders for the average day at Cardiff where I live, those are my favorite boards to ride. There’s really no better feeling than getting to the nose except getting barreled.

Why do you like asymmetric boards?

Asymmetrics are just subtle little benefits. I feel like they’re just a more highly custom board. It’s something where you know what you like on your toes and you know what you like on your heel side or your back side. And you’re just trying to combine those. For me, it’s just, a more tuned-in to the conditions you’re going to ride and your stance. It’s just more highly custom.

I’m still trying to keep the boards balanced and make them feel pretty fundamentally sound, but the little tweaks are there to help under your toes with what your toes can handle and under your heels with what they’re good at. Your toes kind of feather in their pressure, so the toe side will quicker and less forgiving.

If you could surf anywhere, where would you go?

I would probably go to Tavarua and go surf Cloudbreak. I think that would anyone’s idea of paradise. I just feel like it’s just a really good wave for the boards and the way I like to surf. It just has a long wall and it goes really fast. It just really matches the speed of my boards. It’s just an unbelievable wave that you can get barreled on, but still turn. And you know, feel really, really fast.

So the theme here is that you like to go really fast and you like to design boards that make you go fast.

That’s pretty much the underlying theme here. If you have enough speed you can do anything. Once you have speed you can do anything — it’s just a lot more fun.

What haven’t you accomplished yet that you’d like to?

I’d really like to experiment with materials a little bit more. I’d like to make some nice wooden boards, too, just kind of get deeper into the craftsman side of the thing. I’d like to build some beautiful wooden boards. And maybe even take it to small sailboat-sized boards. Make them bigger and make them more beautiful.


RIP: Gold Coast Great Wayne Deane (Noa’s Dad) Dead at 65

Respect? Yeah, he had plenty.

Just off the wire: Wayne Deane, who’d been suffering from stomach cancer, has died.

From Facebook, “It is with great sadness that I have been informed and now have to inform you that Wayne Deane passed away peacefully this morning. My deepest condolences to his family and friends. Wayne was an iconic and popular figure and an extremely successful surfer, taking out many titles, locally and internationally, but most of all much loved and respected by his peers. Watching him rip up Kirra was an amazing treat.”

Hell of a surfer. Respect? Yeah, he had plenty.

If y’ever spent any time on the Gold Coast you’ll know, or know of, the great Wayne Deane. The minimalist surfer and shaper owning the sets on any swell of note that swung around Point Danger. One of the tough, old-school men who wasn’t afraid to call a spade a spade. 

Six years ago, the writer Jed Smith interviewed Wayne and Noa together in a compelling piece for Coastalwatch.

(Read that here.)

Last year, Surfer made a fine short about Wayne and Noa and their mutual love of shaping.

The family house is a sight to behold. And this What Youth short of Noa at home is also very good viewing, setting up, as it does, the background to Noa’s own remarkable career.


The NY Times: “When a surfer lands a skateboard trick, who gets to name it?

Naming debate gets extensively reported by famous bourgeoise media house!

Don’t you love a little of what a small-town boy might call legitimacy?

Earlier today, The NY Times, that elitist and bourgeoise, but generally above-board, digital-and-print newspaper, ran a comprehensive story on the debate surrounding the naming of Albee Layer’s backside alley-oop 540.

Called, “When a surfer lands a skateboard trick, who gets to name it?” reporter Matt Ruby gets into it with Todd Richards (whose evangelising on the subject sold me good, read that here), Albee, Tony Hawke, Kelly Slater and so on.

Excerpts:

Slater’s frustration with the situation is palpable. “We’ve got snowboarders trying to tell us how to name surf maneuvers,” he said. “I don’t know a single surfer trying to do the opposite and name snowboard maneuvers. We should all know enough to know we should stay in our lane.”

“It’s more about progressing and sticking things cleanly in sections that make sense for those maneuvers. If you force something and it looks bad it doesn’t really matter how much you rotated unless it’s a full 180+ more than anything that has been landed.” — Kelly Slater, on the importance of calculating degrees of rotation.

“The cultures are different and surfers might not know what skaters have called something or maybe each sport wants ownership on some level of their respective maneuvers. Also, in surfing something we all agree is done on the forehand can be regarded as a backhand maneuver in skate or snow because they have a stagnant surface.” — Kelly Slater on the importance of parity between sports.

In the End, Who Gets to Decide?

It’s up to them, and for sure because they’re speaking to their tribe that’s gonna translate better and then you know as skateboarders we just kind of sit back and snicker … it’s kind of like how snowboarding they coined the term frontside indy which doesn’t exist in skateboarding and it’s sort of a taboo to say but I understand how that came to be.” — Tony Hawk on the who gets to decide in the end.

“Surfers are going to look ridiculous calling something that has been done in a different sport by a different name,” Richards said. “It is about paying respect to the people who came first and pioneered the tricks. They killed themselves to put their names on tricks.”

Read it all here.