The hurricane surfing story to end all hurricane surfing stories!
You most certainly caught the story two days ago wherein Hurricane Lane visited the Hawaiian islands and instead of being scared/hoarding/cowering many brave locals went surfing instead.
As I remarked at the time, it is one of my favorite surfer traits. That big freaky storms evoke in us the unquenchable need to paddle and that news organizations love to gapingly stare at the spectacle.
Well, I thought all the angles had been covered. All the:
Reporter: “We’re here on the beach in Waikiki with Hurricane Lane set to make landfall in just a few hours, Jill and yet… (camera pans out) … we have surfers paddling out to ride the storm.’
Anchor: “Did you say surfers, Bob?”
Reporter: “I sure did. They have been here on the beach all morning, not heeding the sirens or the lifeguard warnings.”
Anchor: “Well I’ll be. Cowabunga. Stay safe out there, Bob.”
But never did I think a man in Hilo would be Surf Ranching. And let’s turn to NPR for more.
As Hurricane Lane approached Hawaii’s big island, it dumped record amounts of rain on the city of Hilo, on the island’s eastern coast, causing flooding, landslides, and damage to homes.
But as all that water began draining out to sea, it also created the perfect conditions for Shawn Pila to grab his surfboard and jump into the concrete drainage canal near his home.
When it rains hard, Pila said, the torrential flow interacts with the shape of the canal to create a standing wave, “and we found out that we could surf it, so when it rains like this we’re surfing the trench like Ninja Turtles.”
Pila said the wave he rode on Saturday was the largest he’d ever surfed in the canal. The perils are many: the river carries logs and debris; after a fall, it’s easy to get carried out to sea; and then there are the police, who threatened to arrest him.
“They’re just doing their job,” Pila said after a police officer made him get out. But he’s been surfing that little wave during hard rain for almost 20 years, and said he doesn’t plan to stop now.
When it rains it pours and some of us just can’t stand staying indoors watching Netflix for 4-days straight. #sorrymom @hawaiinewsnow @cnn @hungryhungryhawaiian @malikadudley @milekalincoln @volcomhawaii_ @volcomsurf @manda @midwestshades @hawaiian_ola @riverbreakmagazine⠀ ⠀ PC: @theoceanographers #hurricanelane #hurricane #stormchasers #surf #surfing #surfinghawaii #riversurfing #thetrench #localsonly #kookslams #rainstorm #lovewater #saveourreefs #oceanconservation #hawaiiunchained #unrealhawaii #adventurealways #luckywelivehawaii #hilife #anywherealoha #bigisland #hawaii #BETHEACTION #livingthedream #feelthemana #shawnpila
Hilo for the win.