Bliss achieved!
I have made it my business to mock people who ascribe some sort of spiritual quality to surfing. To mock them ruthlessly. I’ve always believed that surfing makes you slightly-to-lots worse as a person. Worse at work, worse in relationships, a worse parent and a worse friend. Not that it is necessarily bad to be bad but let’s all just be honest about it, right? Like, let’s all look in the mirror and admit that the “exercise” and “peacefulness” of surfing is all fake. It’s better exercise to power walk to the store for beer and it’s more peaceful to drink that beer.
Right?
Apparently not for the true experts have officially spoken to the UK’s Telegraph. Let’s read!
The US Navy this year embarked on a $1 million (£762,000) research project investigating the potential of surfing to help military personnel with PTSD, depression or sleep problems.
Initial results have already shown surfing can lead to a decrease in symptoms of depression. To active surfers (500,000 in the UK and 35 million globally), this “news” is anything but new.
“Surfing is the best therapist you can go to,” says former British champion surfer Laura Crane. “There is something about just being free and floating in the ocean.” The rhythm of the ocean is similar to that experienced in the womb, says Tom Kay, founder of surf clothing brand Finisterre. “There’s a strong link between health and well-being, and being in the sea.” Salt water contains magnesium, which is calming, and exposure to the sea strengthens the immune system, as well as helping to normalise blood pressure.
Surfing is mindfulness in action. You just need a board, a wetsuit and the sea. Watching waves, waiting for the right one, paddling and catching it demand your full attention. “It’s a focused state – a trance state,” says Gulf War veteran and psychotherapist Rich Emerson. “It gives you a break from everything else.”
It’s immersive, addictive and it both grounds and uplifts. Outdoor therapist Ruth Allen, of White Peak Wellbeing, says: “Overcoming fears, taking calculated risks and riding a wave allows people a genuine sense of achievement, while literally washing away negative feelings.”
And it’s not just negative life events that can be tricky to process. “I got married, started a family and set up a film-production company in one year,” says Harry Anscombe, CEO of Beagle. “Surfing helped me cope with the new responsibilities, because it got me out of myself for a couple of hours.”
It also reminds us that there are always forces beyond our control. “We all try to plan and control our lives,” Anscombe says. “But if you try to dominate the waves, you get beasted.”
Surfing has one trump card that few other physical pastimes, immersive as they are, can beat. You can’t take your mobile phone with you.
“Surfing puts you out of touch with technology and the thought processes around that part of your life,” agrees Joe Taylor, founder of the Wave Project, the UK’s first surf therapy charity. In his experience a great deal of anxiety and other mental health issues, particularly among young people, are amplified by social media and technology. The relentless pressure to be always-on, or to be something you’re not, can take its toll and surfing provides the antidote. “Surfing is completely honest. You can’t fake it,” says Stoy.
Etc.
But seriously, is there 35 million fucking surfers in the water? 35 fucking million? No wonder everywhere is so fucking crowded.
So over it. Fucking kooks everywhere.
Fucking kooks.
Not really a single wave between Ano and Hmb that is quality.
Looks nice from the road but not the water.
Manresa to Moss a different story. Empty too until someone in the BG comments starts raving about it.
So, at age 46, Slats could have won TWO titles this year!
What’s up with these British surfing champions? They seem to pop up in the most random places. You should do an investigative piece – my guess is that there’s a Moldavian syndicate churning out British surfing titles for €.
Well, I’m happy I won’t be putting on a wetsuit again until next June. If this year is any guide. So I’m ahead of those in this ‘study’ already.
I can see an invite to Kelly’s tub coming up
Thought about that earlier…can you see Ziffy selling the tub to the Pentagon. DOD investing ” your money” in a pool at every military base! It’s fucking the Wizard of Oz all over again! I would not bet against it.
Shhh. They’re trying to drum up investors for something.
“…and exposure to the sea strengthens the immune system”
Well that’s one way of looking at it.
Esp after a good rain.
The entire Torygraph article is a heaping dose of woo. Thanks, you assholes. Too many kooks already.
Including my aging self.
Personally I’m just fucking depressed after a ‘surf’ these days, but individual results may vary. See your shaper for more information.
Once again surfboard riding is allocated all benefits for just being in the ocean. Like boogie boarding isn’t just as therapeutic
Think about it. Imagine approaching a veteran, handing them a boogie board and then telling them to “go drag your dick around for a bit. It’ll make you feel better.” That’s a tough sell.
They’d get a lot more out of it up front if it was a boog. Just send them out for a snorkel, swim body bash, fish, sail, goatboat, wade, fkn beachcomb, whatever, doesn’t need to be surfboard riding
Sheeesh! It was just a joke. For what it’s worth, I agree with you. Especially the part where you didn’t include SUP.
Ahh, yep fair enough!
Otto… you could sell it, we know you could. Give it a try, and bring “I’m bored” Benji with you he’d like that.
Wondering if they, the military, had tested this with Kelly’s Pond if they would have gotten a higher stress level and the opposite results.
I betting YES!
I think it’s great that surfing is being used as therapy for US veterans battling the effects of PTSD. The resources available to veterans through government funded means are a travesty. As what is often employed as “treatment”, the drug cocktails that these men and women are subjected to does more harm than good, often masking one depressive symptom with another. If surfing can do some good for veterans, that is a good thing and should be applauded, endorsed and financially supported.
In all seriousness I’m with you here. I rarely surf in Oceanside, but when I do always see Marines in the line up. They surf like shit generally, but it must be so good for their heads after all the tours in the Middle East kicking in doors and shooting poor people to get in the sea and breath out during peaceful moments between sets. Way rather put up with these annoying low intermediates than the Johnny-come-late-life realtors and techies and such. Everyone else seems fraught but the military kids usually seem just happy to be there.
Slow clap to the Torygraph for managing to out-Inertia the Inertians.
Protip: For an extra magnesium boost at work try putting a couple of spoons of almond butter in your business socks. Pushing a pen never felt so spiritual!
Business socks! Up until now all of my socks have been essentially equals, but from here on out there’s a clear hierarchy. Suck a dick running socks, then make me a fucking sandwich.
Next you’ll be telling me you wear sports socks in the bedroom. It’s business time!
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
Oh, fuck the military in the lineup… it’s already a war zone! Wife is not going to be happy with the increase in beer consumption!
is that title your next billboard?
Lies. All lies. “Surfing” can be faked in the context of being a “surfer”. Most commonly via instagram.
Can I just get a bag of weed and Hulu?
Sophie gets it… https://uploads.disquscdn.c…