It's history!
My mornings are pretty routine. Coffee, scroll the gram, make kiddo breakfast while some sort of angry pundit screams partisan bullshit on my tv while I don’t pay much attention- a stereotypically domestic Orange County morning. But today, boy, was I gifted a surprise.
Mid scroll I stopped to watch a video posted by Captain Fins of the BSR pool. “Ugh, another wave pool video of a 17 year old doing a flicky god damned air reverse” I curmudgeonly thought to myself, even as I was about to watch the video like the media-hungry surf lemming I am. I have, after all, been programmed by the WSL to watch flicky air reverse after flicky air reverse and like it or otherwise I will be exiled to Dirk Ziff’s Home For Grumpy Locals, a shittier and less endearing version of the Island of the Misfit Toys.
As the video started something struck me as different. The angle was wide. You could see the entire wave pool wall. The angle certainly wouldn’t capture any of the stickers this young stallion of a shredder was hoping to display with a corked out rotor we’ve seen a hundred times.
You have my attention.
Then, he stood up in all his glory- JJ Wessels. He runs assertively to the nose, hangs five, does a full blown 10, runs back to the tail, and puts the thing on rail. It was the first time I had been genuinely stoked on pool clip other than that time I accidentally saw the pool scene with Phoebe Cates from Fast Times as a 9 year old.
Ever since Kelly Slater stoke Adriano’s title thunder in 2016 by dropping his wave pool teaser, we have been inundated with videos of racey crouched barrels, no bottom turns, single maneuver waves, half turns, and air reverse variations galore. Waves at the KS Wave Co are all shot from the shore or ski, BSR are all shot from the same wall, and absolutely nobody’s shot a WaveGarden clip since Jordy surfed the Basque.
I watched the clip probably ten times. I sent it to my group chat where it was met with similar excitement. IT WAS SPECTACULAR. But why? My friends and I have never had any real interest in long boarding. Sure, I mean we’ve always been around it but we grew up surfing 6’1” x 18” and watching Taylor Steele movies. Long boarding isn’t something we were ever really drawn to the aesthetic of, were exposed to via osmosis only, and respected merely for historical reasons. This was different.
And there it was, the answer to my question. This clip was exciting because it was different, even if it wasn’t something we’d normally seek out. We got to see an entire wave, surfed differently but well, of a different discipline, from someone who wasn’t on the CT (of short boarding at least I couldn’t tell you if JJ is a WSL longboarder or not to be honest). Also, for the first time I REALLY understood how long and how perfect the BSR wave is.
So I guess what I’m saying is we should see more of this style of clip. At minimum, it made me follow JJ Wessels because I want to see more. The real question now is will we ever stop being force-fed pasteurized and homogeneous speed barrels at the Surf Ranch and McTwists at BSR? Is there a diminishing point of returns where we all scream “This is fucking boring now!”? Probably. When that happens though you better bet is that the wealthy owners of the tech will call us “jaded grumpy locals” or “scared of change” or some other nonsensical bull shit to tell us we don’t get it- probably not from the guys at BSR because they seem cool, but definitely from Dirk Ziff, who seems to be an elitist asshole who would rather dismissively throw shade than take a single iota of critique from actual surfers.
I also thought that was a bold choice.
But mal is part of it.
Hate to say it but Joel Tudor posted a way better one. I actually think with a couple of tweaks Kelly’s pool could be a very very good wave for the longboard championships….
https://www.instagram.com/p…
I got some terribly foiled fins from Capt. Fins a couple years ago. (To be clear, I hadn’t intended to get bad fins)
Amazon came through and sent me another set (still a little ropey) but Capt. Fins themselves didn’t want to know about it.
Just thought I’d share that.
#moaning-oldcunt
No fins in capt birds eye
Fish fingers.
Best wave pool
In aus. https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Solid 8 foot.
Solid 8 inches no exagerate
Busy as the superbank too and lottsa burqa babes
I hope you were #foilcunt or #jetskiwanker or at the very least #Sweeping
#scoping.
Solid eight inches
On a computer, watching a fake wave.
Kinda miss the old days of being at the beach and watching a real wave.
Did you copy this from the Inertia?
Next person to post an air reverse gets their acai bowl slapped to next year
There has only ever been one great scene of a log in a pool and it was in Caddyshack.
You love pools.
gee still hanging onto ziff’s comments from how long ago, give it up its boring just like socal Longboarders blah blah and the shit cutback he tried to do instead of pulling out with style.
A very poor wave
Which is very poorly surfed
Is today’s click bait!
I feel bad for these innocent poor waves confined to barbaric wave tubs, deprived of ever knowing what it feels like to be free in their natural habitat. Time for protests. A grassroots movement. Get With It
GETWITHIT
Grumpy’s for the Ethical Treatment of Waves Interned in The Hell of Inland Tubs
IMONIT. It’s going to be my go to phrase for anyone dropping in on me from now on.
I’m Mad Ornery Near Inconsolable Tightfisted?
Ok ALL IN!
My new wave-catching catchphrase will be shouting out IMAFUCKWIT!!!
(Impressionable Mature Asshole Father Under -Coordinated Kook Without Intelligible Tomatoes)
——-
In fact… you know it would be much more entertainmentism if all the CTers had to shout out their own catchphrase upon taking a wave.
The QS lot wouldn’t be allowed to shout a catchphrase until they had ‘made the Tour’.
See if you can guess whose catchphrases these are:
1: “SNOWBALLINGCUNT!”
2:”HERECOMESGOATYGOATY!!!”
3: “URGHAWOOOOOOGA!!!”
That’s pretty much the physiological response to a drop in.
A day will come when
Waves turn on their oppressors
And surge through the streets
‘Tis strange times we live in when something like this “clip” can be found refreshing, sir Chin.
I agree, he should have done a chop hop.
He should have seized that fucken camera and hurled it into the next Freak Peak.
Watching logs in pools. Jesus Harvey etc. If this ain’t end times…
Hanging out at the Steyne would make a bit of a change, D.
Or are you not there ?
Urgent report required, pls.
I’ve been bashed and blown there.
#me too
Steyne hotel to be exact
Both? Outside the Rugby club and Fairy Bower beach respectively for me.
Yeah the backpackers don’t fuck around, neither the bouncers.
Actually the backpackers do fuck around.
Solid Mexican /seppo surfer old JH and his crew
“Ever since Kelly Slater stoke Adriano’s title thunder in 2016…”
That’s why I enjoy BeachGrit’s policy of letting the edit stay authentic to how the author scribed it. He didn’t stole it, he stoke it.
shame he didn’t stoke-ed it.
That brings up an interesting point. Is Kelly too big to be publicly shamed? Or do we just have to be patient till he gets “selected” to the US Olympic Surf Team under objectionable circumstances?
Yeah funny that. Like the opening two words of the article: “It’s History”. Wasn’t Adriano’s world title 2015 (not 2016) when Kelly “stoke” that title on a glassy December 5 morning? PS – I am not alone in having gotten facts and dates wrong in reporting surf history.
I wouldn’t invest too much energy on Ziff; The WSL appears to be on a pretty solid path of self-destruction.
Loved this article….well written and expressed. Thank you for some art in writing…kinda like the art lost in wave pool riding LOL…..much appreciated!