So sexy…
My neck tan is fading, my hair is turning brown, the
surf is flat. Relentlessly, aggressively flat. I look at
the satellite photos and watch as lows twirl deliriously off the
coast.
So sexy. When I think they’re sure to come my way, they dance
off in entirely the wrong direction. This is bullshit.
At least, finally, it rains.
After years of dry heat, the rain is a gift. Plumes of silt
billow out from the creeks. I check Rincon one day and it’s the
color of chocolate frosting. But no surf. The ocean could be an ice
rink, a dinner plate, a mirror without lines. Pick whatever
metaphor you like. No waves. The problem is no waves.
What the fuck do I do now.
My deadlines stack out to the horizon.
I swim along in slow motion and take ‘em on the head one after
the other. They’re suggestions anyway, or that’s what I tell
myself. I slide heedlessly down the calendar. What day is it? No
surf, again. Which deadline is next? All of them. A jumble of
words, they’re all shit.
I give it up. I pull a novel off my shelf and head to the coffee
shop. A while back, Matt Warshaw posted a clip
from Eve Babitz. I’d never read her before then, or
even heard of her, but I’ve been hooked ever since. Her manic, Los
Angeles party girl prose is the ideal antidote to flat surf and the
perfect way to dodge another round of deadlines. I sit down next to
the surfboards – yes, my coffee shop has surfboards in it, there’s
no escaping – and jump in.
Sex and Rage. The book’s bright cover
looks like it stepped out a time machine from around 1970. It has
surfing in it – there’s no escaping – and the depiction of 1960’s
Santa Monica feels like another country. The geography
teems with wild parties and falling down beach cottages, all
leaking roofs and sparse furnishing.
And so much life. There is a joyous abandon to an Eve Babitz
novel that eludes description. I giggle in my corner with the
surfboards.
The novel’s main character is called Jacaranda, after the trees.
She hangs out at the beach and learns to surf and Babitz perfectly
captures of the addictive quality of our silly dance. Eventually,
she gets a job airbrushing boards, which has a startling
specificity of time and place.
She also becomes a writer whose deadline avoidance is next
level. I start to think maybe I should take notes. A dizzying
string of boyfriends saunter across the page. I can’t keep them
straight – and I suspect that’s the point.
When Daniel Duane published his story about women’s big wave
surfing, I was surprised by the disparaging comments about the
dumbass New York Times writer who didn’t know shit
about surfing.
Okay, I wasn’t that surprised.
It is the internet, where you can’t be a writer for any amount
of time without being called an idiot on the regular. It’s just how
it goes. Before he wrote about big wave surfing, Duane published a
book entirely devoted to surfing.
Now, not being part of the club, I really don’t know what one
has to do to be considered an actual, bona fide Surf Writer. Send
in your box tops, and get your Official Surf Writer Membership
Card. I would have thought writing a book was good enough, but
perhaps not! Strange, pagan rituals and unholy quests must surely
be involved.
Or it’s dumb persistence.
I sit with the surfboards and sip my coffee. I decide that
Eve Babitz is my new favorite surf
writer. Pagan rituals or no, she is queen. Jacaranda
finds another boyfriend. Another party goes wrong. This is the best
way to spend a day with no surf that I can imagine.
My friend, The Girl with the Surfline Tattoo, bounds through the
door. She drove an hour, looking for surf. It was small, she says,
gesturing around her knees.
We talk about how we’re supposed to be working. Make money while
it’s flat. Somehow, it never quite works that way. I need to the
swing of the tides to keep me on track. Hours pass unheeded.
Deadlines spin into view and just as quickly pass me by.
The twirly things out in the ocean will turn my way soon, I
hope. We’ll all go surfing again someday.
Maybe I’ll make this fucking deadline.
I’m sure I can make this one. Just this one right here.