Owner of leashless board cries and says, "Fuck that guy! I hate him!"
Today’s project is surf injuries. Earlier, you thrilled to the SUP pilot, whose face now resembles a treasure map, and, now, a Topanga surfer who was drawn a third armpit by a leashless surfboard at Malibu.
Will Milner, 47, is an artist who calls First Point, Malibu, home. When he’s not in his art studio in West Adams he shapes boards, mostly hulls.
Let’s hear his story.
I was enjoying a small early south swell pulse two sundays ago at the Bu. The lineup was kind of jammed, first sign of summer… the surf was inconsequential, waist maybe chest, good but no big deal.
Anyway, I had been noticing this girl burning people most of the morning… not to mention incessantly running to the nose… I had avoided her pretty much until she lost her board. This all happened really quickly… The girl once again burning a dude on a a set wave, she ran to the nose, arched her back, her board got hung up and tossed with the momentum of the breaking wave, tail first.
I kind of scolded her for a minute and she yelled to me and her boyfriend sitting next to her, “Fuck that guy, I hate him” and ran away to the parking lot crying.
I attempted to roll to avoid it hitting my head, but the tail/fin slammed and snagged my whole right side… her board, the dude’s board and my board to the beach… I knew I had been basically stabbed, I could feel cold water in the wound… Swimming in I told the girl her board slammed me and it’s not good… she started crying… on the beach, more of the same.
Holding her stomach and crying. I didn’t see her get hit, but idk. I kind of scolded her for a minute and she yelled to me and her boyfriend sitting next to her, “Fuck that guy, I hate him” and ran away to the parking lot crying.
So I asked the boyfriend where they were from, didn’t get too much info… needing to take care of my wound, the lifeguard, Carter, super cool and nice, helped me out, I couldn’t see the gash, he looked surprised maybe shocked, , so I knew it was probably bad… he offered to call an ambulance.
Fortunately my girlfriend was with me… and drove me to the emerge care in Malibu… they wouldn’t see me because my insurance company website was down, drove to the one in Calabasas, two-hour wait. I insisted that the nurse at least check it out… she obliged and said it was bad and maybe the muscle is torn and sent us to the ER in West Hills… 20 staples.
I don’t know the protocol on this, but if I had lost my board and wounded someone, I definitely would offer to help etc.. the girl was a brat.
Maybe her ego was bruised, embarrassed? And didn’t want to admit she was wrong?
It’s a good story, yes?
Two questions: Would you cry and say, ‘Fuck that guy, I hate him’ if you’d carved out a new piece of real estate on another surfer?
And what sorta country sends a wounded man back on the street because “the insurance company website was down”?
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She just ripped him a new one. Bitch needs to grow up and deal with it. Not run away crying saying she hates that guy. She just can’t go leashless out at the Bu when it’s crowded.
Maybe she should call Rhonda Harper?
And without the perfect wave peeling for 200 yards.
its not as simple as “getting kicked out” — its ridiculously long waits for simple shit, everything computerized so that when the computers inevitably have some sort of glitch no one can function. its not just that american health care (and all our systems) suck, its that they suck despite (and probably because) of all the money and technology being thrown at the problems.
you see the difference if you’re forced to get medical attention in other countries, and not just the rich ones.
totally! little shits think being criticized on the internets is the same as getting hurt in real life.
As soon as I read Calabasas. I read it twice looking for more “avocado gate” and sushi.
This is America in 2019, now the laughingstock of the world…
Ban leashes and they will go away
Geez. Hope he didn’t cut the long thoracic nerve…. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.go…
#metoo
Good ol’ Murica… land of opportunity but can’t get a doc to look at you for love or money when in need.
Fuck that guy, I probably hate him too. I hate her more though. Hate is powerful.
Enough to repel errant longboards?
No excuse for a chick riding a log without a leash. But. Where exactly was this guy that he got hit on a point break???
Is he suggesting it was a clean up and set and he just happened to be caught inside or,
Was he shoulder hopping looking to dick some other rider or
Was he himself in the incorrect place paddling back out??????
Like most of these stories I reckon there is more to it. I’m very suss on this bloke .I’m calling two kooks, one got hit for being in the wrong place, both cried. Fuck both of them.
There’s no way it could have been a clean up set, if she was able to get on it and step to the nose, not to mention the dude she burned already riding behind her. For the board to fly and hit him, he was probably paddling back out and was gonna go behind her through the whitewash. That’s what people do after they get closed out there, usually it’s no big deal on a smaller day.
It does sound like this could have happened even if she had a leash, a longboard and long leash is still almost 20 ft. of reach (but not the fin end.) But who knows.
If you are going to surf 1st point then expect to have leashless logs heading your way… sharpen up armpit pussy and drop in on her.
Hey, idk, not everybody gets a good look at their own insides. This guy was treated to a something special.
Oh, and, hey, – what the fuck Dez? We’ve got the best health care in the world! Why, this man had multiple choices of a hospital at which to blow a life savings on 20 stitches.
I can imagine him saying “I fucking hate that guy” before flicking his fringe and running away crying in a kind of pigeon toed hip swinging waddle.
Look, she was on holidays, and as part of her frolicking good time decided she fucking hates that guy, she stabbed him and ran off. Probably to drinks by the pool at her holiday resort (or if she was me on holidays in the USA she would be taking a trip down to Total Wines). Yep, must have been on holidays – that’s the only time drop-ins happen.
I call BS. It takes 14 hours to drive from Costa Mesa proper to Malibu. That’s on a good traffic day. Also, if this guy got hit by 3 boards how does he know which one speared him? Malibu is my idea of purgatory.
yup.
Needlessly sullying the good name of the Mighty Costa Mesa.