Laying down, the wave is a phenomenal three-times overhead.

Miracle in Yeppoon: Surf Lakes creates world’s first artificial “eight-foot” wave; uses bodyboarder for perspective!

Giant plunger reaches "theoretical safe maximum"…

Two weeks ago, it was reported, here, that the Australian company Surf Lakes was set to achieve what no other wavepool on earth had done or even come close to – create an eight-foot man-made wave.

The Occy and Barton Lynch-endorsed Surf Lakes is a a full-sized demonstration wavepool located midway between the towns of Yeppoon and Rockhampton in Central Queensland and uses a giant plunger to create waves, unlike the sled-foil combo of the Slater pool and the air pressure game of American Wave Machines.

The giant plunger is a beast ain’t she!

It was a bullish claim, an impossible dream you would think, and BeachGrit readers were, naturally, sceptical.

A few samples.

From Matt Warshaw, Am I the only one who read “bullish numbers” as “bullshit numbers”?

From Channelbottom,

When I told my wife “I’m sure Yepoon feels much bigger than it looks.” She slapped me.

I can’t get no respect…

From Snowbored,

8 foot Hawaiian?

Or 8 foot Lenmorian?

But, just a few hours ago, the company revealed photographs of what they call eight-foot waves, the “theoretical safe maximum for the prototype.”

To prove the matter beyond any reasonable doubt, a champion bodyboarder, riding prone, was used in the photographs for perspective.

Let’s pick over the two images provided.

Now,

Let’s be frank.

I see a pretty good four-foot wave.

And I am neither Hawaiian nor bullish with numbers.

Am I wrong?


Like this except with water underneath.
Like this except with water underneath.

Just in: WSL Studios announces its slate of programming featuring a Kelly Slater doc and “Free Solo of surfing!”

Academy Awards imminent.

The World Surf League is an impossible to conjure gift. Imagine the content we get now, the riches, the bounty, streamed unlimited and free (unless it’s the Tahiti trials then streamed on a broken feed in French). All that beauty, all those angles, the 1989 World Champion in the booth sharing insights as the world’s best surfers ride the world’s best waves.

Oh, you are a bastard if you say those world’s best waves are often world’s besting in less than ideal conditions thanks to round after round of non-elimination surfing. A stone-cold bastard. And you’re also a bastard if you even think that the World Surf League doesn’t continue to have your entertainment in mind each and every day.

For today, the World Surf League’s WSL Studios’ slate of programming was released and, quickly, did you know that WSL Studios has its own logo and is “World Surf League Division?”

I didn’t.

But no matter, you need to know the slate. You want to know the slate. So here you are.

World Surf League Studios Announces Debut Slate of Programming.

Development of Landmark 11-Time World Champion Kelly Slater Documentary

Partnership with the Producers that Created Netflix’s ‘Drive to Survive’

Creation of WSL Podcast Network

Eat your hearts out, grumpy locals but do you need more?

Today, the newly-formed World Surf League (WSL) Studios unveiled its debut slate of programming. Designed to connect to surf fans as well as appeal to all audiences, the content focuses on telling the transformative stories of surfing, showcasing the incredible lives of the world’s best surfers across all disciplines, as well as using the sport as a window into an array of diverse and fascinating cultures.

The debut slate is comprised of documentaries, docu-series and daily short-form content that is designed for distribution across multiple platforms. The projects feature content with established and award-winning production companies, up-and-coming filmmakers and innovative producers, harnessing their talent, deep knowledge and unique points of view.

“WSL Studios is anchored around storytelling that highlights the raw athleticism of the world’s best surfers, extending through everyday people, and the richness of emotions and narratives that surfing invokes,” said WSL President of Content, Media and WSL Studios, Erik Logan. “With our initial slate, we have endeavored to demonstrate the range of stories that are possible through the Studio and the common passion for people, surfing and the ocean.”

The press release goes on to describe the Kelly Slater Documentary, the creation of a whole podcast network and a big wave thing self-described as “the Free Solo of surfing” though that one doesn’t seem nailed down as, noted, “…director conversations are underway for this project.”

Don’t you love press releases promising uncertain, likely not happening projects?

Hope springs eternal!

I see that smirk, you bastard.

You stone-cold bastard.


Draconian: Southampton’s police dept. cracks down on surfing; locals vow mass protest!

Have you ever attended a "surf-in?"

The United States of America’s eastern seaboard is a strange place. As any student of history knows, it was where Puritans from England first landed to set up a colony where they could practice their religion in peace. Things went a little pear-shaped some 150 years later and the descendants of these brave men and women rebelled against the English crown, along with a grab bag of folk from Old Germany, France, Portugal, Spain and the Netherlands.

Freedom was won but old ways die hard and many of the towns on that eastern seaboard reflected strange rules and laws from yesteryear. Like, in Maryland it is illegal to wear a sleeveless shirt in a park. In Massachusetts its illegal to own an explosive golf ball. In New Jersey its illegal for a man to knit during fishing season, in Vermont women must obtain written permission from their husbands to wear false teeth and in Southampton, part of that gilded stretch of New York coastline where the rich and powerful play (think Great Gatsby) it is illegal to surf between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. from June 15 – Sept. 15. And let’s turn to the local media for more.

The surfing community was stunned this week when Southampton Village Police began enforcing a section of the village code that prohibits surfing on a nearly 1-mile stretch of beach between Halsey Neck Lane and Old Town Road, and another small stretch at Fowler Lane during the summer months.

In protest of the move, a petition was created in opposition of the village’s ban, and as of Sunday morning, over 1,900 people had signed it.

“Many of us surfers were told by the police that they would tell us to get out of the ocean and give us tickets if we went in,” the petition read, adding that the fine was up to $1,000. “This understandably caused disruptions and concern among those of us who love the sport. Please support the petition to overturn this ban altogether.”

New York’s favorite gossip page, (6) added…

Those who have enjoyed the surf for years — including Coldplay’s Chris Martin — were told they’d get a $1,000 fine if they defied the ban, in place until Sept. 15.

Martin has often been spotted surfing in the area alone and with his kids.

He was also seen Friday at Surf Lodge in Montauk with girlfriend Dakota Johnson.

I like that Chris Martin and Gwenny Paltrow consciously uncoupled so he can be out and about with Dakota Johnson without causing a stir but back to the issue at hand. If you are the petition signing sort you can, and should, pen your name here.

If you are not and a rebel and/or old school activist you should go, surf and get arrested then ballads will be sung in your name.

Ballads like Free Nelson Mandela but likely less moving.


I describe myself as a "woke surfer".

From the tough-on-crime dept: A list of surfing’s gravest offences!

"The surf is for everyone" lie and other grievous felonies…

As a rule, I’m anti-death penalty. The thought of being framed and then convicted of a crime in a country where capital punishment is doled out blithely, Bali, Singapore, America*, gives me occasional night terrors, as it has since I was a child.

How would I face death? With a brave face and a clever one-liner? Panic and buckled legs?

Crimes in the surf are a different kettle of fish, as they used to say, and it’s important, especially with the rise of “WSL ” and “VAL”, to remind surfers, experienced and new, of what constitutes a capital offence.

Following is a list of surfing’s gravest crimes. Please help fill gaps.

  1. The surf is for everyone argument: Just as a skate park revolves around a hierarchy of best first, worst, last, and where the child scooter rider languishes at a perpetual end of line, so does the surf. To operate this argument in the complaint of a drop-in by better surfer is among the most heinous of man’s crimes. You can imagine Jeffrey Epstein, may he rest in perpetual madness and torture, a follower of this line of thinking.
  2. Slick extortionists who paddle out, sit next to you and assume priority: You know ’em, but only in the context of the beach. A smiling face paddles out, sits on your inside, strikes up a conversation, then spins for the first set, yelling.
  3. Paddling for the shoulder on a set: One man’s wave ruined, the other avoids a duckdive.
  4. Refusal to split a peak: Two surfers in position for an A-frame. Instead of a civilised sharing of the spoils, one decides to  backdoor the peak.
  5. Pulling back on a set you’ve warned anyone else from touching: From a yell to reverse-arm paddle.
  6. Presuming local status at remote, and foreign, reef: American ex-pats in Tahiti, Australians in the Mentawais, Brazilians in Bali.
  7. IG-ing a once-secret wave and then weeping at its reveal. 
  8. Surfboard thrown away, in panic at spectre of set, in crowded lineup.
  9. The presumption of priority because of longboard, SUP.
  10. Refusal to attach leash to longboard for aesthetic reasons.

(*Editor’s note: An earlier version of this story described North America as a “country”. Matt Warshaw has pointed out to me via email that North America is the continent and America or United States is the country. This error has now been corrected.)


Deal: World Surf League sells “High five your favorite surfers as they enter the pool” package for $299!

Exciting times in Lemoore!

Teahupo’o is the next contest on the calendar, beginning in just days, and that is exciting. It feels like very exciting especially with the cancelled trails yesterday putting on such a show. Oh did your heart launch straight into your throat? Mine did. Mine launched into my throat, out of my mouth and slammed the reef.

I cannot wait these remaining days until the contest actually begins, likely in waist to shoulder high waves.

Waves that look like Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch.

And I’m glad that Surf Ranch just came up in this conversation because our World Surf League is offering an exciting new VIP Freshwater Pro package deal this September 21.

-Admission valid Saturday 9/21

-High five your favorite surfers as they enter the pool and watch the contest from the comfort of our shaded VIP area.

-Experience all the exclusive perks and unlimited access to the competition and The Raconteurs concert.

High five your favorite surfers as they enter the pool is certainly an upgrade from last year’s $299 single day VIP ticket perks and I’m glad there is no asterisk or qualification. Like *if your favorite surfer would like a high five. Or *choice of 5 favorite surfers. Or *excluding Gabriel Medina.

No, it is wide open and if I was spending $299 for the day, I would sit right where they run into the water and high five each and every surfer because, in truth, they are all my favorite. Not to be rude here, but if one of them refused my high five I would be compelled to tattle to the World Surf League brass so they could usher that particular favorite surfer back to me to receive my high five. And not to be ruder, but if that was not allowed I would demand a full refund plus gas and lodging.

My only question, is do the surfers being high five’d get a cut of the $299? Is a portion of the $299 put into a pot and split equally among the surfers or do surfers get a percentage based on how many high fives they receive for the day?

I suppose those are two questions but don’t worry. I am a surf journalist and will get to the bottom of them.

In the meantime, does this new high five perk compel you to head to Lemoore at the end of September?

Who would you most like to high five?