Like many beginners, the Surf Witches have been seduced by a vision that only rarely exists. You know the one, it’s that idyll of a mellow, dreamy session, where it all comes easily, everyone is happy, and the scene looks just like Instagram. They want it to feel like yoga or a meditation session. Or, a slumber party. | Photo: Hannah Jessup

Jen See on ‘Surf Witches’ all-girl surf gang: “A challenging thing in life as a woman is figuring out when things are about gender, and when they really just aren’t!”

Like many beginners, the Surf Witches have been seduced by a vision that only rarely exists.

Earlier today, I went down to the beach and went for a surf.

Some rugged windswell had rolled into the neighborhood, which meant fun waves if you knew where to look for them. It is no longer bikini season here, in case you were wondering, so bikini updates are suspended indefinitely.

We apologize for the inconvenience.

When I paddled out, I was the only woman in the lineup. Later a couple women more joined us. But for most of the session, a crew of bros and I competed for waves. Most of us knew one another, if not well, at least in the “I’ve seen you around” kind of way. The vibe was happy, competitive, mellow, all at the same time. I didn’t really notice I was the only girl in the water. No one burned me. No one burned anyone else, either.

The midlength guys had an advantage and used it. The shortboarder from a nearby college with the golden retriever personality chased every peak in his time zone. It was fine. It was all fine. We all eventually got waves. Some got more waves than others. That’s how it works.

We all want waves. We all can’t have them at the same time. This is surfing’s most basic law.

I came home to an email from Derek. (Chas doesn’t email, his inbox is where hope goes to die.) Derek had sent me a link. Surf witches! I wondered if there would be hats. Obviously, I clicked immediately.

In search of a feel-good story, ABC Gold Coast reports that a crew of women have formed a surf and social group called Surf Witches.

Their goal?

To escape the competitive, negative vibes they have experienced while surfing Snapper and Duranbah.

“There are lots of men in the lineup and they’re very serious, and they don’t want to talk to you, and they’re all dropping in on your waves,” said Surf Witches co-founder Hannah Jessup, who learned to surf earlier this year. “As a beginner, it’s hard to know how to handle that kind of attitude.”

The group meets up to go surf and wears blue bracelets to identify one another in the lineup. “It actually feels like a party or a sleepover or something,” said Jessup. The women cheer for each other’s successes, however small, and have begun expanding into meeting for brunch and coffee out of the water. The Surf Witches hope to reach beyond Australia to the U.S., in an effort to make women feel more welcome in the lineup.

There is… a lot to unpack here.

Let’s start with the easy part. A social group for women who want to surf is indeed a lovely little feel-good story for your afternoon perusal. Women who want to surf with other women, they should totally do that. I would rather be shot into the sun than join a women’s surfing group, but on the whole, I am not a joiner. I will gladly, however, take my woman friends surfing if they would like to try it out. I do that, because while I’m not a joiner, I do like my friends.

If I did take my beginner friends surfing, we would never, in a million, billion years paddle out a place like Snapper. Like, never.

Raise your hand if you’ve ever burned a beginner. You totally have, right? I totally have. I mean, I’m not proud of it, but I have. Sometimes, my inner asshole escapes.

It’s crowded, you’re surfing a decent spot, you’re pretty sure the beginner will eventually blow the wave, so you just fucking go. We’ve probably all done this. It’s like sharks eating the smallest, slowest fish they can find. Chomp. No regrets, no remorse.

I would like to teach the Sea Witches of the world that there are beginner spots and they exist for a reason. Every town has at least one. Beginner spots are fun and generally super chill and that’s where you go to stand up and go straight and figure out this whole mysterious business of riding surfboards.

Standing on surfboards is pretty fun and I have no problem with new people trying it out. But for the love of the fucking sun, pick your spot and pick your day. That means, not the most famous A-list spot in your neighborhood and not the biggest day of the year. Or even, the biggest day of the week.

An A-list spot will be crowded. It will always be competitive. It will rarely be beginner-friendly. If it’s nearly flat, sure. But otherwise, you can expect to compete for your waves. That’s simply how surfing works. (If you live on a desert island or some other remote spot where no one else surfs with you, I do not want to hear from you! In fact, I am going to send every beginner I see to your remote desert island!)

There are a finite number of waves in the ocean. You might get lucky, but a good wave is not simply going to be handed to you. Like, oh hello there young lady, here’s a fun wave for you! Thanks for coming surfing today! This is not how any of this works.

There’s a significant disconnect between how people imagine surfing and what it actually is. Like many beginners, the Surf Witches have been seduced by a vision that only rarely exists. You know the one, it’s that idyll of a mellow, dreamy session, where it all comes easily, everyone is happy, and the scene looks just like Instagram. They want it to feel like yoga or a meditation session. Or, a slumber party.

You want to know who drops in on me the most often out of anyone? Women on longboards. The old school women never do this and I love them for it. But so many times, I look up, and bam! There’s a woman on a big board dropping in on me from the shoulder. I guess what I’m saying is, I don’t think men are the only problem here.

Once in a while, surfing looks and feels something like this. But more often, it’s messier. More difficult. It’s not just you and the ocean, the way Instagram promises. It’s you and the ocean and other humans. And those other humans, well, they do have a tendency to shatter the dream.

There’s an amusing irony in all of this agonizing over the angry men and the negativity and omg you have to compete for waves and it’s terrible.

You want to know who drops in on me the most often out of anyone? Women on longboards. The old school women never do this and I love them for it. But so many times, I look up, and bam! There’s a woman on a big board dropping in on me from the shoulder. I guess what I’m saying is, I don’t think men are the only problem here.

A challenging thing in life as a woman is figuring out when things are about gender, and when they really just aren’t.

I was out surfing over the weekend, sharing space with a couple of men on shortboards. We’d staked out an interesting sandbar. It was a warm fall California day. Bright sun. A puff of offshore. The sky, the water, a blur of glimmering blue.

There were waves, but not quite enough to go around, and the men in the lineup got more than I did. It had nothing to do with gender. The dudes were fucking ripping. They were quite simply better at surfing than me.

I still got my share of waves and I still had so much fun. This is how surfing works.


President Erik Logan (pictured) sad that he lost his instructions on how to build IKEA's Flärdfull.
President Erik Logan (pictured) sad that he lost his instructions on how to build IKEA's Flärdfull.

Sweded: IKEA and WSL team up for “a line of products catered to you, the surfers and ocean enthusiasts of the world!”

Exciting days.

And it’s as if the World Surf League’s Santa Monica best-n-brightest including, but not limited to, Co-Waterperson of the Year Dirk Ziff, President Erik Logan and one-time Pottery Barn aficionado Kelly Slater sat down this morning, watched my not very hinged rant then said, “You don’t like corporate stupidity and absurdist greenwashing? Mic drop, skinny bitch.”

Boy oh boy, it was a dis track that may never be topped but have you not read the news? Have you not read that Swedish disposable furniture giant IKEA has teamed up with the WSL for… “a line of products catered to you, the surfers and ocean enthusiasts of the world” announced four months ago but stumbled out again today?

I have no idea what that sentence means but let’s head straight to the press release for much, much, maybe more.

WSL & IKEA are collaborating, and we want your input!

World Surf League and IKEA have partnered to create a line of products catered to you, the surfers and ocean enthusiasts of the world!

We want you to be a part of the process, helping us develop products that not only suit your lifestyle, but are better for people, the planet and society.

I clicked on the survey but couldn’t be bothered to take it.

Will you?

Also, who has a cuter bedroom, Co-Waterperson of the Year Dirk Ziff, President Erik Logan or one-time Pottery Barn aficionado Kelly Slater?

Argue now!

Sweded.
Sweded.

Bodyboarder fight at Pipe goes nuke: “I’m a lazy motherf**ker, I’d rather just cut him up!”

Latest news from the North Shore etc.

In news from the eleven kilometre miracle, two Puerto Rican bodyboarders have squared up on the beach at Pipeline, with one determinedly holding what appears to be a little dagger.

The two bodyboarders do a lot of yelling and the show continues until a cop, in classic Hawaiian style, shuts it down by telling ’em it’s okay to scrap, but not to stab.

BeachGrit’s couple of sources say the episode started in the water when Lucas Godfrey, a noted Pipe charger and sometime star of Jamie O’Brien’s excellent blog series, collided with one of ’em as he attempted to go Backdoor, the bodyboarder, Pipe.

Words were thrown into the air, nothing serious, not a wave you’re going to throw a punch over.

Godfrey paddled away.

Then, according to our sources, another bodyboarder paddled over and started beating hell into the bodyboarder that collided with Godfrey.

“It was obvious they knew each other,” said a source who paddled in at the same time. “It was like a soap opera. It had nothing to do with surfing, in my opinion.”

On the beach, a witness called the cops and told ’em a knife had been pulled.

The cop arrived and, says our source, the bodyboarder “was talking to him bluntly, candidly, like a gangster, saying, ‘I’m a lazy motherfucker, I’d rather just cut him.’ The cop was, like, ‘You can’t be a sore loser and pull out a knife. That’s a whole other level of trouble.'”

Fight fizzed out. No injuries reported.

Watch here.

 


Watch: “Core surfers boiled in tank of corporate stupidity and absurdist greenwashing!”

Let's bring the Grit to politics, to culture, to movies. Let's smear Grit everywhere!

In the depths of despair, I received a revelation. A quiet whisper barely audible over the muted grunts of professional surfers locked into silent bondage.

“Smear grit all over the world…” is what I heard. “Smear grit where it doesn’t belong.”

“What?” I shouted. “Smear grit where?”

But did not get any response.

I pondered the meaning for hours and hours before understanding the meaning.

Surfers, core surfers, boiled in a tank of corporate stupidity, World Surf League storytelling, absurdist greenwashing and Kelly Slater conspiracy have become so purified of any pretense, any wrongly elevated sense of self, any pride whatsoever.

Surfers, core surfers, boiled in a tank of corporate stupidity, World Surf League storytelling, absurdist greenwashing and Kelly Slater conspiracy have become so purified of any pretense, any wrongly elevated sense of self, any pride whatsoever.

We, but mostly you, are Buddha-like.

And we, but mostly you, will usher in a utopian dawn by chatting about various situations only tangentially related to surfing. By applying our selfless minds to all manner of this and that.

We owe the world our gift.

Also, have you been watching Haleiwa?

Every year the Vans Triple Crown rolls around, every year I think, “This year I should really care,” every year I don’t.

Maybe we fix that first then move to the plight of the Rohingya.


JP Currie on quit-lit: “Better to disappear on the piss and burn like a flare all weekend than fizzle like a damp sparkler in a crumbling, onshore rivermouth!’

The question isn't why would you quit surfing but why… wouldn't… you?

(Editor’s note: this story by Scottish writer JP Currie is a riposte to Longtom’s piece from three days ago, I renounce Quit-Lit; why should we cede the space to the VAL hordes?”)

Spent last night in the back of my van. It was cold, far from restful, despite the fact I was in bed by 1900. Nowt else to do this far from home, at this time of year.

The dog provided some smelly warmth against the minus temperatures, but this was offset by his restlessness during the night, scraping the covers off me. Something outside in the icy blackness was bothering him. I never found out what.

At some point in the night I had picked up my phone. I read a piece by Longtom, renouncing Quit Lit. I watched the steam from my breath swirl in the screen’s glow. I wondered if the kids were sleeping ok. The baby had been coughing and wheezing all week.

At five am I went for a piss.

My bare feet burned on the frozen ground. It was barely light, but I could already hear the swell had disappeared, in spite of the forecast. The wind had picked up, too.

Northerly. Bitter. The two-degree air felt colder.

I drove.

Couldn’t even find the motivation to make coffee first. I checked a few other spots. Nothing doing. Ended up surfing a crumbly weird rivermouth. It only really works for an hour either side of high tide at the best of times, but it wasn’t even doing that. Not worth putting on the sodding wetsuit that had been sitting in a plastic bucket all night. Or the boots, or the gloves.

I left home at five am Saturday morning. Got back after eight pm Sunday. Drove more than four hundred miles. Best part of £100 on fuel. Surfed maybe four hours all in.

Can’t remember any turns. Whole weekend gone.

Tough to justify when the kids are at home. They’re just babies, too. Lot going on. Lots of changes, lots of stages. I haven’t been around much through the week. Work has been stressful, I’ve been checked out a lot.

Struggling, not doing things I need to.

Thought a weekend away surfing would be the fix. I’d come back feeling refreshed, feeling something.

Sometimes, in the heat of an argument, I’ll hold myself up against some of the other dads I know. The ones that go to the football on Saturday morning, then disappear on the piss til Sunday night.

Or my mates who’re still hitting the pills and the ket on the regular, into their forties. It’s not Trainspotting, but it’s not not either.

But neither are fair comparisons. They’re socialising, probably having a hell time. Sure, Mondays will be tough, maybe Wednesdays too.

But better to burn all weekend like a flare than fizzle like a damp sparkler in a crumbling, onshore rivermouth.

What Longtom wrote resonated for me this morning. The lack of context reminded me that no-one else really gets it. Each to their own.

Comments below buzz with perplexed temperate participants, like wasps trapped in a jar.
Man up and get on with it!
Fuck quitting! 
Why would you ever quit surfing?! 
The question is: why continue?