"Desperation is objective and real. Surfing is now prohibited. Is that inglorious or fucking what?"
The drive from my home to quiet surfing is equally quiet. Rarely traffic. The beach breaks don’t seem to capture the imagination of those socially inclined to easy cove surf. Something about tighter transitions and a little more girth keep the VAL’s at bay.
Or so it seems so far.
With a historically poor winter on the points, I’ve dug in deeper to the sands of random beach breaks.
I laughed at the concept of social distancing because I’ve been practising for this my entire adult life and these misfits of sand and short-period windwell fit the profile I’ve become. Plus, you can work on quick twitch, tight transitions… at least that’s my favorite rationalization on the eve of any trip.
The drive today was very familiar, it feels like my car can execute the distance without my attention.
I pulled up to an empty lineup scattered with dog shit peaks trying to lure this angry, grumpy local out of my warm car.
“Roll down your window, please,” the dark shadow on my passenger side requested.
I never saw him pull up behind me.
“What is going on, officer?”
“I’m going to ask you to drive home. If you require an explanation, I will ask for your license, registration and insurance docs. The fine is exorbitant.”
He had his ticket book in hand and opened to a page he has reserved for me.
Two weeks ago, I opened three emails that wiped out my business. I’m very sensitive to new debts and I didn’t want to find out what he means by “exorbitant”.
Rumors are floating that the new fines for surfing are one thousand dollars. That’s more than the flight to Auckland I canceled just three weeks ago.
I drove away from a virtually empty, mile-long stretch of beach and was now acutely aware of my surroundings.
Past the point break I’ve spent four decades surfing, I see the police barricade.
How did I miss it on my way just minutes before?
Two more sheriffs standing sentry over the beach park that the RV’s occupy. Another motorcycle cop sitting by the mushy reef I never surf.
Why are there so many law enforcement occupying such an innocuous roadway, empty of fellow travelers?
The freeway is vacant.
I stop to shoot the flashing warning signs without pulling over… there is no need to. There is one car in sight and it’s well ahead of me.
The turnoff to Rincon is not usually lonely.

And there he sits, another sheriff and there it sits, another flashing sign in the lower parking lot.
The waves don’t warrant a citation, but the message is clear, Ventura County surfing is being shut down.
Another “Brick in the Wall” or is it another attack on our common sense/logic?
We don’t have LA/OC/SD crowds beyond the dormant points, how can law enforcement close long stretches of lonely beach and why?
I drive by a horrible stretch of sand within the Santa Barbara County and notice young kids at play together looking like a surf school. The beach is relatively busy, just four miles from the closure zone.
How long until SB beaches are shuttered?
I drive home and grab the puppy for a short walk to look at my sand point, the venue of last resorts.
It reminds me that I’m looking for diamonds in a pile of coal.
Puppy doesn’t seem to mind and I aspire to have her attitude, though it’s too late to change my tiger stripes.
Tiger stripes, has that fucking show infected my consciousness?
I never watched TV beyond sports before this paradigm began.
I am now a Tiger in a cage.
Will the legal goal posts ever be removed or has the game changed?
How often have goal posts moved and then moved back again?
I can’t remember.
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Thank you, catch a few for me.
You know anyone at Logs?
“Tiger in a cage”.
Good stuff Hippy.
good on you… I love hearing about your surfing.
A month ago, I was invited to submit to a gallery opening. Magical evening. I was leaving on my annual trip the following evening. I had invigorating jobs all over the country in April and early May, then a trip to Mejico…. everything lined up like it always was.
Poof. It’s gone.
Needs more sharks.
A day late and a dollar short buddy. The democrats haven’t tied his hands at all. He’s got all kinds of power in this situation, he plays you and the rest of his idiot supporters like fiddles.
I’ll give you the playbook:
1. Say something clearly racist or xenophobic.
2. Get called on your bullshit.
3. Complain about PC culture.
And you guys are like flies to shit for the fight!
The fact is he’s been ignoring this since mid January. He’s the president of the US. If he wanted to do something constructive he could. He doesn’t.
Both sides are fucking us over, they want us fighting. You mistake criticism of Democrats as a tell tale indicator that someone is a mindless Trump sycophant.
Oh dude I’m completely with you. The 24-hour news cycle is the most insidious force in this country. The corrupt system benefits both sides, but not equally.
Fox News, et al. is uniquely divisive and dangerous.
That said, criticism of democrats does not make someone a trump supporter. Of course not. But the type of rhetoric used by our friend above is taken straight from the pages of right wing media.
Real question: where do you get your news from SSD?
Oh boy, on the spot!
Basic answer is just nightly local and national news. All channels, ABC, NBC, and yes FOX sometimes. Going into full time news I prefer One America News or Newsmax from time to time. Hell, Al Jazeera even. Sometimes Npr and local news radio. I’ll read yahoo feed online which is a composite of a bunch of different feeds- wapo, nyt, USA today, etc. I read my share of national interest, American thinker, Federalist because I’m definitely more conservative. To me the objective is to take in all angles and try to suss out what is really going on. Fox news is fine if taken with an open mind but zoning in and getting mindfucked is a strong possibility as is CNN, MSN. I dig a good Frontline on PBS. They all have an agenda it seems.
Your turn…
Mine is mostly NPR, NY Times. Then WSJ, but less often. Some New Yorker scattered here and there. They have excellent writing but I get bothered by the political commentary at times. On equal frequency as the New Yorker is the Weekly Standard, which I don’t read a ton of but generall trust their take.
I have been known to hate-listen to Rush. To me there is a major difference between the conservatism of WSJ and the weekly standard and the likes of rush, Hannity, et al.
I still respect principled conservatives and can get behind many of the ideas. It’s this worship of a clearly unqualified and dangerous president that bothers me.
Good chat SSD I know this was late but family, work, etc and a lack of booze got in the way of my reply.
I’m the same, find interest and value in what people are saying from all sides. My younger days were solid left and hatred for people like Rush, Reagan, Bush Sr & Jr., Etc. Only after owning my own business for years and having kids did I start to rethink things. Basically the modern Democrat party, especially in California, and it’s embracing of far left SJW wacky stuff lost me. It got to where it felt like I was supporting something that didn’t represent me or my values not included me in their platform. This isn’t to say Im all in on Republicans or Trump. I’m politically homeless!
Anyway, good discussion and I appreciate you having a respectful open minded convo. Best to you and family
Yep, why would the dumocrats want oversight on Mnuchin? He produced Suicide Squad!
Good read Hippy.
What he said^^
Just be thankful you aren’t a black dude…he’d have pumped three into your skull before the window had fully declined
You wouldn’t have uttered your question…but the answer would have been the same “there’s no problem…nothing to see here”
I’m hoping some dangerous mentally ill bro has a 9mm waiting for one of those cops. But that’s nothing new. I’m always hoping for that. I wish I was (more) mentally ill. Sadly, I’m not. Just enough to fuck everything up.
Meanwhile in Queensland…Sad how people just bow to a police state. Some of these frkn laws are a joke…The government here could not even get the basic shit right…But they want shut down surfing but let 20 people in office works or stand outside a coffee shop.
Govt enforced localism is now happening on the Goldie !
Several major beaches on Queensland’s Gold Coast will be off limits from Tuesday at midnight due to coronavirus concerns.
Gold Coast Mayor Tom Tate said while locals were doing the right thing, there had been some visitors at beaches not following social-distancing rules.
“Unfortunately, over the weekend, out-of-towners are descending on the Gold Coast in mass numbers and I fear that this number will increase over the Easter weekend,” he said.
“Therefore, as of midnight on Tuesday, The Spit, Surfers Paradise and Coolangatta beaches will be closed [to everyone].”
“The beaches will remain open for our locals so that they can continue to walk and exercise.
Surfing a lonely peak is exercise in my book.
The old outta towner chestnut.. How could they tell the local plebs from the blowin plebs? Surfing is indeed exercise Tom (Sell Kirra to the highest floating germ factory mariner bidder) Tate.
Mark some X’s on the sand…wait your turn…5(?) waves…in you go…back of the queue
Surfing seems to be the targeted, let’s make a point, poster boy outdoor activity of covid19.
We’re easy – the lowest of the low hanging fruit.
Would love to see the stink if the media went after the bike brigade.
But they won’t ….
70+s hurtling along on ebikes … comical but fukken dangerous
Blame it on all the families, kooks and VALs
I’ve never hurt myself in over 40 yrs of wave riding…
I don’t think you’ve trying hard enough
Haha
Not to say I’ve never had any injuries, but nothing serious that wasn’t inflicted by an out of control mal riding val
Well at least this happened during the weak second half of an ok winter. There’s a silver lining and gas is cheap right now.
Long stretches of lonely beach and why? Because people–and especially surfers–are idiots: look at the Lowers cam. Surfers do not, or cannot, grasp the concept that if a spot is crowded, they cannot paddle out. If Lowers has 10 guys out, you cannot paddle out or you break social distancing. Actually, 10 is probably 5 too many. It is as simple as that, but surfers are selfish idiots. Yesterday, I was paddling out at a beach break 100 yards from any other surfer only to watch a guy walk down the beach and paddle out 30 feet directly behind me and then paddle to the peak I chose. Why? In my younger days, I would have yelled at him to get away from me, but I paddled to another peak, which did not matter because there were plenty of peaks, so again why?
As a reply to my post, surfers will only have themselves to blame when Lowers, Uppers, etc. get shut down.
Multiple replies to myself: Just read Superbank is being closed and looked at the cam of 100+ guys out, so no wonder why. To all surfers in places where we can surf, if it is crowded enough that you cannot be 15 feet from someone (make it look good for the authorities with extra distancing), do not paddle out.
There’s maaaaaybe a cyclone swell on the way for points here at Noosa
Popcorn is ready, surfcams selected
Had this exact scenario happen to me last week. Walked down the beach for about 30 minutes and paddled out solo on a lovely looking right rippy bowl deal.. not 10 minutes later a suburban nightmare 4wd pulls up and 4 cunts paddled right on out and started conversation with me about the crowds in town! The fucking nerve, I just couldn’t believe it. And.. they were actually decent surfers, I was filthy. Still am.
So while they’re sending you home, their buddies are surfing the empty peaks and points… well played police, well played.
I like your no nonsense style Hippy.
Keep keeping it real.
What you coming to Auckland for?
Fun adventure! Thanks for taking us with you, Hippy!
When the fuck is Trump going to step up and show some real federal support for the States ?
It’s almost too late … I heard 650ish died in NY today alone.
He’ll be crucified by the media soon, surely.
Plenty of blame to go around.
https://www.google.com/amp/…
That blame going around never quite seems to get to Trump does it?
Huh? He’s always under fire. Everyday getting blamed for pretty much everything. That’s the problem. When he is actually fucking up it just gets lumped into all the other noise
The laws get put in with the intention of eliminating the infection risk. Fair, although the law makers and enforcers don’t surf. So then the Stasi-esque enforcement of those laws becomes more about the blind following of laws rather than the intent of those laws – Surfing is banned to stop corona, but if there’s nobody out then where is the risk?
Good people disobey bad laws etc. Unless there’s exorbitant fines at play. Hope you can get through this time ok mate.
So many Dickheads from down there.
Now it’s time for them to suck it!