God bless professional surfing.
Tears filled my eyes yesterday afternoon and threatened to cascade down my cheeks. I was sober, of relatively sound mind, decidedly not on an airplane watching the movie Bridesmaids (the last time I openly wept).
No.
I was in my own backyard having a chat with two of the best World Surf League commentators to ever strap on a lavalier, Kaipo Guerrero and Pete Mel, on their new-ish show Any Kine Live.
To hear their voices again, to see their faces… it was almost more than I could bear.
Oh how I miss professional surfing, and I’m not too proud to admit. How I miss the chatter, the bad heats, the reclaimed wooden desk, the interviews, Ron, Joe, Rose, Kaipo, Pete, ’88… even ’89.
Our lives are cold, dark without them but, for one brief moment, I was allowed to bask in that warm light once again.
What did we discuss?
How Pete wants to be known for more than simply being an unrelenting sex symbol.
How Kaipo has destroyed his financial future by once opting for business class.
How professional surfing should be conducted in the future.
Would you like your eyes to well up with tears too?
Bon appétit.
