More questions than answers.
It is Christmas Eve in America, a beautiful time to be home basking in the love of family. Tiny tots with their eyes all aglow finding it hard to sleep. Husbands mixing comforting batches of egg nog. Wives stringing popcorn chains. Grandpas and grandmas nowhere in sight due the threat of Covid-19.
But what is the worst thing you’ve ever done to your significant other?
While you’re thinking, a man vacationing with his partner off Rottnest Island, near Perth, made her paddle him around on a SUP while he observed the enchantment under the sea.
Brazenly whimsical.
The video has gone mildly viral with people commenting unimaginative things like, “When you want to go snorkeling but don’t want to get wet.” And “No need for all your dive gear, only a mask and snorkel.”
Did you visit the World Surf League’s YouTube page, by the way, and read any of those comments while the Billabong Pipe Masters in Memory of Andy Irons presented by Hydro Flask was happening?
Wow.
Ok, what is the worst thing you’ve ever done to your significant other?
Also, has World Surf League CEO Erik Logan ever made his wife paddle him around on one of his many, many SUPs?
A strong possibility.
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This is indescribably beautiful…. happy December 25 boys….. fuck yeah…..
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
That drop-in at the end, :), what a douche!
agree, that was Ke11y-esque fake blindness…
Kelly’s 360 at pipe was not great; it was a little wonky, and he had to violently throw his arms to one side just to balance his way out of it. Not very beautiful imo.
For contrast, I once saw Kevin Reed carve a full face 360 around (!) a non competitor during a comp. Some random dude was just stuck deer in the headlights, as KR flowed around him, and then he smacked the lip hard and actually did a second 360 at the end of the ride. He did all of this smoothly and with style.
Kevin and John Mc Clure in Santa Monica were breaking ground, same time.
John had carving 360’s wired and set up right into bottom turn for the next air. Next level. Reed was getting altitude. If both had lived in Orange County, they would both be surf house hold names.
Reed was probably ahead of everybody imo!
Regional bias?
I was paying attention to everywhere looking for the next goals. Just opinion anyway, eh?
regional bias always! guilty as charged Hippy,
also seeing it firsthand has an impact on us all?
I was in college during that era…. ’79 to “82, so it was real time for me. I had the 360 wired, but could never keep my board under my feet on backside airs…. damn rail always turned and landing was hell on my shins/hips.
though, KR is a generation older than me (probably you too), was a pro skateboarder with a model, and did airs before anyone, so that too!
Gotta put Davey Smith from Santa Barbara in there too. Never a fan of his style but very progressive for his time. Only opinion I have about Mclure are pics in Breakout mag, no footage.
agree, Davey had awkward style and his “make” rate wasn’t high.
John launched them like landing floaters…. he launched toward shore too… quite a bit of altitude horizontally though.
Only saw Reed during contests where he looked out of sorts, but you could tell from the still photos.
Gonna have a board built featuring that era’s bottom contours… been missing that feeling and a shaper was encouraging me to return to that fundamental.
No one was shooting film movie at that time… or rare as video had yet to be introduced.
Kevin Reed was a surfer that I guess never had the mind or desire to do well in contests. What a weird time in California surfing in general, especially contest wise. Seem like Mike Purpus and beaver tails were prevalent. Chris O’Rourke was another hopeful. Hard to judge anybody back then due to limited footage, unless you surf with them. Curren was the savior.
We didn’t want to surf contests. Ian and PT moved here and brought standardized surfing, little league approach that didn’t value surfing well… just adhering to a system. It was despised.
Curren was Ian and PT’s savior. Unlikely pairing as it was.
Purpus had a fashion to himself, not indicative of anyone else.
Everyone was on their own trip, myself included. There was no club scene like Oz and we didn’t want any. I remember an early contest at Malibu and all the boys were talking about assaulting the visiting pros. Ben Aipa was involved in a skirmish in the lot. Lifeguards, in my opinion, saved some pros because the build up about a confrontation was surprising considering Malibu was already crowded (during the day C415).
Nobody cared about footage or notoriety. Our lives were directly opposite.
I think it had a lot to do with the country in general. The malaise of jimmy Carter. and the residual of the vietnam war still. Gas shortages, hostages in Iran etc. It was a dark time. thrusters came out the whole greed is good, echo beach, new wave punk rock. We all woke up and started to live again. I was so far up the coast surfing Ob every day and driving to Santa Cruz that it was all in the mags and movies. But the best tube riders around at OB were my best friends(two surfer centerfolds). so that was my peer group.
Malaise of Jimmy Carter?
Gas shortages were during Ford, Hostages were staged by Reagan puppet strings (Holmes, Tuttle). We fucked Iran on a business deal… you are aware of that yes?
But surfing itself was full discovery. You kept your finds quiet, secret. I drove the state alone, working on new board concepts. Used to joke that if I took people to Mex, I would blind fold them but reality was, I wasn’t taking them.
70’s darkness was mostly heavy drugs. Localism was prevalent, but all you had to do was play by the code and you could score. Simple rules of engagement. Adventure alive and well.
Money didn’t allow people to “live again”. Just the opposite. All of our lifestyles were compromised by the ambition of a very few cashing in at our expense.
I’m getting a head ache…
I can only go by my life and what happened during those years. Everybody was riding 7’8″ sunset guns in waist high California point breaks. I had to cut a foot off the back of my board and re shape it to have wide wide tail single fin.
Edit. sorry hippy but I fucking hated the seventies. the music the clothes. I grew up in the most hippied out county own the planet. I grew up with the grateful dead band members living down the street. Janis Joplin lived a few miles away.
I thought about them all as a burned out threat. I wanted something new, and punk rock and thrusters gave it to me.
Has anyone wished Ben a Merry Christmas!
good to see bex and Brutus have made peace and are enjoying a day on the water together.
Who’s who do you think?
I’ll back Bex in for a bottom. The mouthy ones usually are.
You’ve obvs never been in the joint
I’ve been profoundly tested by a dark cloud formed beneath hell.
Behold
I come again to rescue the world from the satanic lefties.
Then off to heaven,
Good Lefts off the pearly gates
Rubberised reef setup
a VAL free zone I hope. happy festivus Bex.
VALS have their own area
Gals can be wherever.
I’ll send your love to the biggest celebrity of all mankind.
Jay to the C
b to the g to the jay!
You have enemies all around you bex. Trying to take the life you have. They are going to bulldoze the suburbs and create low rent high rise projects next door. Life is short don’t live in fear of a non existent enemy. It’s a waste of time. Be happy.
Okey dokey!!
get back to me when he gets punched in the face by an octopus.
gold
That is a video of a man who has his shit together. Boss moves only.
Brainwashed her into thinking size doesn’t matter.
So since we’re talking about wives and sacrifice….
I grew up in a retail environment and my Grandmother demanded that any open business hours for our showroom following Thanksgiving had to play Christmas Music. Not only did I loathe Christmas, but that music scarred my DNA. 12 to 16 hour workdays with that same fucking loop occupying my young brain.
Today, Mrs Hippy is baking and apparently, Hallmark Christmas Movies are required back ground ambient sound. Formulaic and cliche, there are so many movies produced it doesn’t feel as if on loop, but the stories are all the same changing out generic, vanilla, sexless actors and actresses.
I’m not sure which scenario is worse. But each reminiscent of the other. And I now resent my virtue signalling decision NOT to have multiple TV’s in other rooms of our house.
Maybe I can smoke some good Indica and eat a few cookies that Mrs is baking for no one in particular as our family party was cancelled due to her mom testing positive yesterday? Maybe said cookies will taste great after several Miller Lites? Maybe the non stop sugary gloss movies will mask the hope that we don’t get an update call on Mom’s condition? Talk about multiple anxieties.
Would just walk the dog to the beach and lay in the sand while the dog smells the neighborhood dogs pee. That’s always fun, but I wrecked skating last night and in so much pain. So much.
Enjoy boys and girls.
Can I infer from your description of the house and life, that you are no longer a “hippy” and more so a reformed by wife “ex-hippy”?
It didn’t matter MMM…. no NFL today anyway. Always be a hippy, may not look like one all the time, but I had to change the books cover because of business. Nothing has changed, just the veneer.
Hah! I look like a hippy, but was introduced to a mate’s friend as “the punkest guy I know”. *Blushes.
And Mum and Dad have turned up for our xmas day feasting and prezzy sharing. First time we have been able to hug since she was laid low with ‘the virus’ back in February. Hope it goes as well for you mate.
My first trip to Oz without my family, I was a hardened punk…. chopped my long hair off myself. It was a huge movement in LA.
Was shocked to socialize in Byron adjacent because all the kids dressed like something and listened to something I could never imagine.
Met this girl that looked like the Cure, but she was into Aussie pop.
Met this dude that looked like and was wearing Grateful Dead clothes. Turns out, he was turning on to Ska (?) and had never heard of the Dead.
Met a hippy girl in Nimbin who fed me mushy tea and I gave her my heart. She liked Black Sabbath and was impressed that I worked for them.
In Australia at that time, kids dressed one way and accepted music from other inspirations/genre’s. Made it fun meeting people because they didn’t telegraph who they were… in an odd way, but so be it. I had so much fun.
Cool..
Absolutely. My introduction to live music was a scene where it was so small, but diverse, that ‘punk’ wasn’t defined by a type of music, but by the fact that the music was different from the mainstream. United by a subscription based radio station that had volunteer announcers who were passionate about music.
Now, with 2020 hindsight, (that phrase has two meanings), it was weird to go see Iggy Pop one weekend, some ska band the next, followed by Nick Cave the next and have more or less the same people in the crowd. I never did crack it with the Goth chicks though…
Nimbin will throw you for a loop one way or another.
Hope your mother in law gets well, and through it with no lasting effects. I would guess that she is past middle age and of an age where Covid can be serious. Keep us posted Hippy. Merry Xmas.
86 and in dementia care. A nurse brought the virus into the ward. Sad enough that the end of her life was distanced from the family…. very hard for us, not sure she totally understands, but it won’t help her cause being isolated. So many of these types of stories bro…. how many deaths have occurred without proper memorial?
That sounds like a pretty heavy situation you all are dealing with. I hope she beats the odds and comes through this. There are a lot of stories not being told lately. I personally have known a few people that have died recently, not due to Covid. Some of them had no memorial service or family gathering due to Covid. Memorials planned for indeterminate dates in the future, but maybe not. So their stories have not been closed or told, the family and friends have not gathered for closure and to pay respects. It’s like they pass and are are not properly remembered. Which is a pretty sad way to go. I wish the best for your mother in law. I have heard some amazing stories of some friend’s relatives who where in their 80’s and survived Covid recently.
hang in Hip, listen to the podcast while you walk the dog, that’s what I did! And smuggle some Millers while you’re at it. Happy Xmas!
You too bro… got those 24 oz cans to look classy walking through the hood.
go with a bum sack, and you good !
I draw inspiration from much of that
Merry Christmas and I hope you get some swell and few wave stormers down there. Put some mahi mahi on the grill and smoke some Chem 4 or GDP.
No waves but we hiked the bluffs over a secret garden. Hasn’t turned on yet this year, but I keep my eye on it. Rarely surf with wave stormers… all you have to do around here is avoid obvious parking lots. For how much longer who knows, but still surf alone everyday.
So you’re onto something man, swordfish marinating in EVOO and thai basil, greek oregano (both fresh picked). Purple tater mash and blanched snow peas over arugula. Got some outdoor scraps, Indy ran out last night but I’ll be alright.
How bout you? Heard the banks in the city were not good… you prolly know alts so good luck. I did some fashion work in a rented house in sebastapol and there was a lonely, gnarly beach break nearby that I surfed on lunch breaks. Spooky place, not a soul around and cold.
The best thing about OB is you never have to pay any attention to sandbars. Any swell that comes in gets bent around the Farallon islands and it gets crossed up into peaks by the time it gets to OB. sounds like you surfed Salmon Creek. Probably the worst place in the world for sharks. I would not surf there.
I have been thinking of asking my wife to shave my back and asshole but I don’t want her to be even more grossed out about me.
selfless husband, one of the good ones…
I reckon shaved asshole would be better than what my misses serves at Christmas
Only a masochist would shave his asshole … imagine the regrowth!
Yeah, wax brazzo style is the correct way!
If I trust anyone with asshole waxing advice … it’s definitely the brazilian gay jesus
Or maybe Drek
I fucking bless it!
I figured Elo was more of a I have a husband kind of guy. Like Conner coffin.
Strong possibility that a shark bites his face off doing that at Rottnest.
How did you take a selfie from so far away?
The worst thing I did to my (ex) significant other was to tune the TV into a wOsl surf comp and attempt to explain the judging, when she wanted to watch the ‘crime & investigation’ channel…