Am I the only one getting worried about Gabe? I mean his psychological state viz a viz pressure. He crumbled at Surf Ranch, never seen it before. He crumbled at the Olympics. He looks off, flat. There's some static in the head throwing conflicting signals at the musculo-skeletal system. Two conflicting things are true for Gabe in Mexico: the result doesn't really matter so he can cruise and, the loss of momentum from a bad performance or result robs him of confidence he'll need for Trestles.

Day one analysis, Corona Open Mexico, “Am I the only one getting worried about Gabriel Medina? The dominant animal of the year is stumbling, being picked apart by demons and parasites, some of his own making!”

He crumbled at Surf Ranch, never seen it before. He crumbled at the Olympics. He looks off, flat. There's some static in the head throwing conflicting signals at the musculo-skeletal system.

I know it’s the fashion to preamble philosophical pronouncements with the disclaimer, “ I ain’t no epidemiologist, but…” but Kelly Slater has shown us there is more to life than life and death.

The cat, crazy as any that God set breath into, still laying down shreds embarrassing peers half his age is exhibit A for that premise. In this case, Japanese American and Olympic Silver Medallist Kanoa Igarashi, who had no answer to the Goat’s beautiful wrapping cutbacks and karate snaps.

I think classic Kelly and judges are now down-scoring, perhaps as part of the great reset, perhaps because Kelly is now a slightly inconvenient truth for the League with it’s workforce of coastal elites who consider the Champ’s vaccine views too hot too handle.

Despite a Bachelors degree in Science in Biology I only semi epidemiologically literate myself so can offer no view as to their veracity. My view: Life is a series of indignities visited upon us by nature so get what you can when the getting is good. If the getting is good when you enter the fifth decade then you’re doing something right.

This gurgly Mexican point break offered up some slurping tubes down a black sand sandbar, quite invigorating to watch after the chaos of Shidashita and the monotony of Surf Ranch.

It’s a war of voluntary attrition at the top though, or the bottom end of the Top.

Mikey’s done, left the circus to concentrate on freesurfing. Smart call to get out while there’s still some mileage left in the rock-and-roll brand. I’d love to see the whole Wright clan quit to free surf. Back in a Van. Owen as chaffeur, jaunty cap covering up the increasing low-tide line on the forehead, going back to an aerial or three. Tyler increasing the repertoire. Back to the way it used to be. Lots of upside there in the digital space to build a channel etc etc.

Julian’s dropped off the keys, J-flo made a new plan, Stan. John John played it coy on medical advice, despite being fit enough to block Kelly from the Olympics. Lots of talent being stripped out. Kelly might not be able to retire, even if he wanted too. They need some eyeball attractors left in the draw. Stories make stars and there ain’t a lot of Italos pushing north from the traditional surfing nations.

Down the bottom end of the rankings there’s a strong feeling that for the sport to capitalise on any post-Olympic bounce the Aussie lambs had to turn into lions.

Which they did.

Jack Robbo looked sharp, but he still looks a little front-foot heavy in the small wave game. Ewing topped the day. If he can’t get the job done in three-foot san bottom point surf then he really should jump in the Wright family van and forget about the lycra jersey for good.

Robbo pushed Medina into second place.

Am I the only one getting worried about Gabe?

I mean his psychological state viz a viz pressure. He crumbled at Surf Ranch, never seen it before. He crumbled at the Olympics. He looks off, flat. There’s some static in the head throwing conflicting signals at the musculo-skeletal system. Two conflicting things are true for Gabe in Mexico: the result doesn’t really matter so he can cruise and, the loss of momentum from a bad performance or result robs him of confidence he’ll need for Trestles.

Some sort of reset is needed for Gabe, despite an incredibly dominant year, but how?

And when?

The dominant animal of the year is stumbling, being picked apart by demons and parasites, some of his own making.

Freddy Morais climbed off the Corona death bed to look great at Barra. Tour stalwarts like Fred will have to do a lot of heavy lifting when the talent exodus of the current CT roster washes through.

Will the billions of new fans brought to the sport from Olympic exposure stay up late to watch Morais? Just asking.

One single excellent ride today. Belonging to Ethan Ewing, née AI. I thought ADS did the better surfing in the heat. Each turn framed by a period of almost dead calm, which was very pleasing to my eye.

The live broadcast missed Ewing’s wave – nothing unusual there – which took him from last to first with four minutes to remaining.

Riding a longer, narrower board, Ewing broke the trim line repeatedly with tail slides, state of the art in 1993, but over-scored in 2021.

Nonetheless, if that is what judges deem excellent surfing in head-high scrappy point surf then Ewing is favourite to win the comp.

I ain’t no blah blah but Toledo will dismember him and leave his corpse to rot in the jungle if they meet in the final.

TL:DR: Despite the mediocre scores, a running warm-water point break was very entertaining to watch.


Open Thread: Comment Live Day One of the Corona Open Mexico presented by Quiksilver!

Against all odds in Barra de la Cruz!


@pauly_matt_war_shore | Photo: @pauly_matt_war_shore

Stab magazine buckles under woke pressure; deletes incendiary Dane Reynolds quote defending disgraced New York governor Andrew Cuomo!

Integrity in the dock.

Oh and well my goodness. Stab magazine, recent North County San Diego interloper, true to form, has attempted to chime in on former world number four Dane Reynold’s perpetual frisson except got caught in an uncomfortable position vis a vis “woke culture” then edited itself into oblivion.

The title, recently described as “a more conventional surf publication following the more upbeat, straight-ahead style of the defunct Surfer and Surfing print magazines” by the august San Diego Reader, directly quoted Reynolds on its website, “We’re definitely still going! Everyone is getting ‘canceled’ for ridiculous stuff… governor of New York is getting cancelled for sexual harassment and all the women’s accounts are like ‘he touched my stomach’ and other ridiculous stuff… skaters are getting cancelled by just an Instagram from a girl accusing him of something inappropriate… anyway it was a joke, not a funny one, just everyone is getting overly sensitive and ‘cancelled’ is when someone is no longer accepted by society.”

 

The statement was run straight, on the lightly trafficked stabmag.com, until someone who just moved to Oceanside felt “uh-oh” after reading the five comments pointing to Cuomo’s alleged nastiness and swapped the quote to, “We’re definitely still going! Everyone is getting ‘canceled’ for ridiculous stuff… anyway it was a joke, not a funny one, just everyone is getting overly sensitive and ‘canceled’ when someone is no longer accepted by society.”

Dane Reynolds did not say that.

At all.

So.

Publishing Reynolds’ statement verbatim then shifting it entirely to a non-representative pulled punch without explanation, is that a major, major, major malfunction or simply a whole new level of “Fuck Stab?”

Asking for a friend.

More as the story develops.


Just in: Electric Vehicle trade publication of record declares that the Kia Boardmasters Edition i.e. “every surfer’s dream machine” saved automaker from “the crusher!”

Victory!

In a very early read on surfing’s grand Olympic debut and how it has resonated with popular culture, how it will impact the wild growth expected by professional surfing’s owner and co-Waterperson of the Year Dirk Ziff, it appears that it may have saved the Kia Soul from “the crusher” which must be considered an out-and-out win.

A scintillating piece published in the electric vehicle trade publication of record, insideevs.com, boldy declares that “Kia Soul EV Got Saved From The Crusher, Became A Cool Surf Mobile.

Whoa.

You may remember the Kia Soul as a Korean car driven by hamsters.

And ready to go to the scrapheap until surfing’s unlikely intervention.

Per insideevs.com:

The Kia Soul EV may not be available in North America anymore, but it’s still going strong in places like Europe. From the UK comes probably the best-looking Soul EV we’ve seen in a long time, if not ever: a one-off concept called Boardmasters Edition.

Created to highlight Kia’s partnership with the Boardmasters 2021 surfing and music festival, this unique Soul EV is a “recycled” pre-production car saved from the crusher to live out its days on the beach instead.

Exactly what International Surfing Association chief Fernando Aguerre was talking about when he mentioned that there was supposed to be what with its “yoga, environmentalism, classes on how to be environmentally sound” but the fact that it resonated so quickly… does that surprise?

Is the co-Waterperson and his chief executive, Erik Logan, absolutely frothing?

A hamster car rescued due the Olympic-spiked power of our Sport of King?

If they’re not, they should be.

More as the story develops.


Fire that will be greatly missed.
Fire that will be greatly missed.

Breaking: French surfer, heartthrob, Jeremy Flores announces his retirement from the WSL’s Championship Tour!

A sad day for professional surf fans everywhere.

Professional French surfer and heartthrob, Jeremy Flores, has officially announced his retirement from the World Surf League’s Championship Tour.

Per Tahiti Nui Television:

Peu de temps après sa participation aux Jeux Olympiques de Tokyo, au côté du surfeur polynésien Michel Bourez, Jérémy Flores a annoncé sur les réseaux sociaux son retrait du monde du surf. Il participera à sa dernière compétition en tant que professionnel lors de la Tahiti Pro, du 24 août au 3 septembre.

“Je ne prends pas ma retraite, je passe à autre chose, un nouveau chapitre”, écrit le surfeur sur son compte Instagram. Il y confit vouloir se consacrer pleinement à sa famille. Déjà père d’une petite fille avec sa compagne, Hinarani Delongeaux, Miss Tahiti 2012, Jérémy Flores attend un nouvel enfant. “Depuis que je suis devenu Papa, mes priorités ont complètement changé, je veux être à 100% présent pour ma famille”, partage-t-il.

Translation:

After participating in the Jewish Olympics of Tokyo, coast of surfer Polynesian Michel Bourez, Jeremy Flores has announced, with reasons of social restraint, from the world of surf. The participation of the last competition ever of professional lords of the Tahiti Pro from 24 ragout to 3 September.

“I need to pretend I’m restrained and choose a new chapter,” drew the surfer on his jam-like Instagram. Duck confit would compliment his family. Maybe a small steak with champagne. Hinarani  Delongeau, Miss Tahiti 2012, Jeremy Flores attend a novel infant. “After becoming a devilishly good-looking papa, my priorities are to compliment change and 100% give presents to my family.”

Flores will be greatly missed. His skill in large waves and fiery personality will not be replaced as younger up-and-coming pros did not have to learn the game over razor sharp reefs and hungry sharks of Reunion Island.

I remember meeting the two-time Pipeline Master at the then-Quiksilver headquarters Huntington Beach. We discussed making a short film together and I don’t recall what happened to the stillborn project. He had piercing eyes, a confident ease, a very unmistakable je ne sais quoi. Our short film would have inspired.

A sad day for us but a happy one for Flores’ family who will be bathed in gifts.

Correction.

Apparently my French is not what it used to be and the proper translation reads:

Shortly after his participation in the Tokyo Olympics, alongside Polynesian surfer Michel Bourez, Jérémy Flores announced on social networks his withdrawal from the world of surfing. He will participate in his last competition as a professional during the Tahiti Pro, from August 24 to September 3.

I’m not retiring, I’m moving on, a new chapter ”, writes the surfer on his Instagram account. He confessed to wanting to devote himself fully to his family. Already the father of a little girl with his partner, Hinarani Delongeaux, Miss Tahiti 2012, Jérémy Flores is expecting a new child. “Since I became a Dad, my priorities have completely changed, I want to be 100% present for my family”, he shares.

Not so different, I suppose. Listen to the hero discuss life, surf, the better things here.