"The end of the elimination round was brutal. Nat Young sat forlornly in the murky water for a full half-hour in a loss to Jordy without a wave to ride."
Today I taught fourteen year olds a dramatic monologue about a disaffected teenager who takes a breadknife into the street and stabs someone.
It’s a poem that was erased from textbooks and banned from schools in England during a period when knife-crime was on the rise.
It seems unlikely that knife-wielding teens were plunging blades with couplets on their mind, but there you go.
The speaker feels alienated from society and ignored at school. The language of education is one he cannot understand. The language of violence he can.
The opening line is unequivocal.
“Today I am going to kill something. Anything.”
It’s sinister. The character is no-one exceptional, and that’s the point. He might be sitting next to you on the bus, momentarily eyeballing you as your shoulders collide in the street, or watching sullenly from a doorway.
The point is that life can be shit, for all of us. It’s how we respond that’s important.
We could choose darkness. Choose to blame everyone and everything. Condemn the world around us. It’s not my fault…
Or, we change our perspective.
We can be like Jack Robinson or Griffin Colapinto and master our minds, understand the kingdom’s all inside.
Or we might hand our fate to a higher power, like Filipe or Gabriel, have faith.
I don’t have faith in anything in particular, and I’m not in control of my mind, but I know I need to alter my perspective sometimes. After the first few heats today I’d jotted down a few negative quips and acerbic barbs. But that was too easy. It’s too easy to dismiss it all – waves, Kaipo, judging, commentary, Kaipo…etc, etc, the usual.
So I won’t.
But allow me one, before I renounce.
Fuck, if I hear Mitchell Salazar say Poooonnta Rrrrroooka one more time…
We get it, Mitch. You speak Spanish, along with about a billion other people.
He’s like a kid I once taught who wanted to show the class magic tricks he was learning. It was a low ability class (it’s not all poetry and Good Will Hunting, you know) and they were poor souls. And so I said yes to indulge him and kill some time. Bless him. It was awful, god awful. Neither magic nor tricks. But we made the mistake of ummmming and awwwwing regardless, pretending to be astonished, as if he were David Blaine. After that the poor fucker wanted to do magic every day, and I didn’t have the heart to say no. And so the end of every lesson consisted of pretending to be wowed by tricks that got ever more elaborate, increasingly ludicrous, and neverendingly shit.
That’s what I think of every time Salazar rrrrrrrrolls some rrrrrrrs and badgers his co-commentators into trying to speak Spanish.
This morning we marched through men’s elimination then round of 16 with overlapping heats. The waves were fairly grim – if you’ll allow me a little reality – and I wondered if it was contestable, nevermind suitable for overlapping heats. But Miley-Dyer’s hand had been forced. With little time and much to do, we had to march on.
The end of the elimination round was brutal. Nat Young sat forlornly in the murky water for a full half-hour in a loss to Jordy without a wave to ride.
Miguel Pupo, a surfer who has been superb all season, thumped his board in fury as the hooter signalled his loss to Jake Marshall. Until the final seconds all he had was a 2.97 and a 0.90.
Meanwhile, Shannon and Laura chirped merrily in the background like we were all having a wonderful time.
“So, so contestable,” said Laura.
Jordy was graceful and honest in his post heat interview. “Luck,” he said, when asked how he won. Salazar trotted out the J-Bay comparison, clearly expecting Jordy to stick to the script. “Someone has to be slapped every time they call this J-Bay,” he snapped, forehand smashing the inane comparison right back into Mitchell’s taco.
Jack Robinson looked roundly trounced by Jackson Baker for the majority of their round of 16 heat. Bizarrely, waves appeared, and Baker picked the best ones, building a solid and deserved lead.
But with four mins on the clock, Robinson found a wave and shook it like a terrier with a rat for an 8.93. The aggression was arresting. It’s the most impressed I’ve been with Robinson in three comps. The camera cut to Julia on the beach, gesticulating wildly. We couldn’t hear what she was saying, but I imagine it was something along the lines of “Any of you fucking pricks move, and I’ll execute every motherfuckin’ last one of you!”
Jack sat in the water, composed himself, then turned and paddled in. There’s something vaguely psychopathic in his demeanour, like he’s scared to lose control. He surfs like he’s possessed, yet talks like he’s half-asleep.
Robinson and the other key players (plus Callum Robson) advanced to quarters, and that was fortunate because Punta Roca finally showed some of the quality we’ve been hearing about.
Medina vs Robinson was the heat everyone wanted to see. Jack’s board snapped on his first top turn, sheared by the lip. He got back out quickly, but was out of rhythm. The waves were better but not spectacular at this stage. Really, Medina dominated even though he once again looked chronically underscored with mid-sixes.
In the post heat interview, Laura asked him whether he pushed Jack deep on purpose for the last set. “Just testing these guys,” Medina replied, like a grinning assassin.
Yes you are, Gabby, and they’re being blown away like dust in the wind.
Some of the quarters were still plagued by lulls, but it was eye-rubbing in disbelief stuff to watch Filipe standing tall and eyeing long, double-overhead walls before obliterating the lip on every turn, when just a couple of hours before Carissa Moore couldn’t find a wave in her quarter final loss to Caroline Marks. A couple before that it had looked unsurfable.
Filipe dominated against Robson, as you might expect on clean right point waves. He was never threatened, always in control. He seems more composed than ever.
Kanoa and Colapinto both registered excellent heat totals. Either would’ve been a worthy victor. Kanoa had the wave to steal it at the end, had he not fallen on his closer.
Griffin will face Medina in the semi. He’s looking forward to it. He feels he was just a kid the last time he surfed against Medina. “Now I’m becoming a man”, he said.
He’ll need to be more than a man to advance through that one.
Ethan and Italo battled an excellent heat to finish the day. The waves were nothing short of pumping and perfect, if a little lully towards the end.
Italo took the win, trading 8s with Ewing. Just as well, for the sake of justice. Ethan’s scores weren’t so much inflated as Italo’s were squashed. He continues to be undermined by the judges. His 8.80 was the highest score of the heat but still lowballed. What else could he have done with that wave on his backhand?
Today was far from perfect, but there were glimpses that made it all worthwhile. Really this is all we can hope for.
I found myself enjoying the imperfection, relishing it even. When the good waves came, I appreciated them all the more.
“Why is everything we study about death, pain and tragedy, Sir?” a pupil asked today, justly.
Good question.
It’s because happiness is the dullest state you can find yourself in.
Contentment? No thanks.
Negative emotions challenge us.
They help us create.
They help us to connect, to know that others suffer, too.
We learn to appreciate what we have. We see silk purses in sow’s ears.
Above all: without sorrow, how would you recognise joy?
And if all you know is happiness, what of ecstasy?
It seems unlikely there’ll be an ecstatic finish in El Salvador tomorrow, but that’s ok. There’ll be other days. It can always get better.
That’s what keeps us going.
autocorrect…testing 1, 2, 3, 8.0!
fact check: no stabbing here…
back to headline…
luv, Max
(ADD student)
https://external-content.du…
Wsl is a joke. Bobby Martinez was right from the beginning 👏
Well ol Bobby aint that bright. He called the tour a stupid tennis tour or something. If it was a tennis tour, winners would win, losers would lose, there would be tons of prize money and he would not have been crying about falling off the tour.
If you’re planning to kill with a bread knife, it’s best to focus on the upper crust.
Is that you, Stephen Fry?
I’m no Mitchell fan (I think he’s really weak) but I bet the WSL people upstairs are leaning on him to pound the Español angle.
Trying to get us all warm and exited for the next migrant caravan thing which will be invading Tijuana soon and then cities to the north. Excelente, Not
Great read again.
few chimed in…
Excellent write up JP
You can’t make a silk purse out of a cows cunt
to file your wit-less comment, sir, kindly shuffle over to Stab
BG comments are a mountain spring of creativity, a consistent flow of pure negative emotions. I can imagine Kelly getting into magic tricks as a hobby, and Griffin being completely astonished.
Kaipo saying “Brazilian contingency” again and again, and the fact that nobody, on camera or off, ever corrects him.
Correcting Kaipo?
That way madness lies.
circus comes to town…
damn clowns.
freaks…
“i’ve fallen & can’t get up…”
drink Torberg!”
Surf City USA…
presented by…?
Vonnegut.
Watch Brazil have the best surf of all the stops soo far.
Stop encouraging the magic kid. That’s how we ended up with Strider.
Did the Magician end up stabbing anyone?
Haha. That is the logical conclusion to his journey into magic!
You could always get the kids to read albert camus’ l’etranger, though given he kills an arab, the book might have gotten itself cancelled by now.
Not a bad book actually.
That guy shouldnt be rolling his r’s on roca. Spanish reserve that for words with double r (compare pero ‘but’ with perro ‘dog’), and no spanish words ever begin with double r.
Didnt watch the comp, shit time zone for aus.
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Excuse me sir, but you do roll the r in the word roca. I’m no expert, but if a word start with r in Spanish you should roll it!
of course but he’s virtue signalling.
Violence is preferable to queerPride cause fighting is useful for kids whereas pulling each others dicks isnt
G for the win.
If you want some schlong in your life just go and get some mate.
It’s not taboo anymore.
Embrace it.
Can you teach me
you must not be familiar with waterpolo
Wise words JP …
I had such a happy upbringing in a loving family that I seriously was numb to serious literature to the point that I did not even bother reading a single book from the English Syllabus in my final school year .
6 years later , with elbow smashed, heart pierced and soul shattered I discovered the absolute joy of shared human suffering , books , whose threads I followed from emotional pitch black , through the labyrinth and into light .
Totally weird day of surfing , highlighted for me by Sammy Pupo’s board bashing after letting Connor go on a wave he turned into a heat winner , and again Connor’s 8.1 ( v Italo ) where he did two of the best backhand turns I have ever seen !
Superb showing by yer man once again!
He did zap those two!
Amazing 2 turn combo on a dredging thick section and not a single cell of body or board out of place and blew the absolute shit out of it !
Is there some sort of random draw at the start of each season to determine who is going to be the fool to bleach their hair. There is always one…
Maybe next year all blond surfers on tour …. Ethan Ewing will like Mick Fanning dye his hair black ? Possibly joined by 17 year old SuperStar Jarvis Earle in the near future !
Maybe Kelly , if he bothers to turn up , will come back with Rabbits tattooed on his bald pate , so in distant shots they might be mistaken as hares ?