"I know between 1985 and 1990 I was doing the best surfing on the planet. And that's what matters now… even as I hobble about in pain."
Today’s guest on Dirty Water brought a brutal, but beautiful, savagery to professional surfing.
His fav tee featured a skull and the slogan Kill Em All God Will Sort Em Out and he was the star of the Quiksilver ad If You Can’t Rock and Roll Don’t Fucken Come.
He’s a three-time runner up to the world title, two of ‘em in excruciatingly controversial circumstances, although he evened the ledger a little later in his career by winning three Masters world titles.
He was the King of Sunset, a Pipeline Master and had the extraordinary ability to gain fifteen pounds for added ballast during the Hawaiian season, then shred thirty prior to hitting the small wave events.
But as my old friend Rob Bain told me recently, as the legend fades, and real life starts to stare back at you it’s a challenge to navigate the autumn years in peaceful contentment.
Come and hang with Kong.
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What an interview.
Well done Derek.
his redemption performances at the world masters champs were pretty rad for an old guy!
K O N G !
Kong should have moved into the wellness space post retirement. Kong could’ve been Goop.
NonJohn hates wellness
He was doing the best surfing between ’85 to ’90 at Sunset.
Tom Carroll was doing it at Pipe.
Tom Curren was doing it everywhere else.
Which basically means the planet,not just the north shore.
Pure conjectural opinion though of course.
But less so than Kong’s claim.
Losing a world title at Manly after winning Pipe sounds unbearable. Fuck the IPS/ASP/WSL.
Manly for the win!!
I grew up fast on a working class street
First thing I learned was life don’t come cheap
Technical school it was a waste of time
Makin’ robots for some factory line
Got my first tattoo when I was 16
The rebel had lost his teenage queen
I’d taken a stand for an outlaw’s life
My ma’s words kept ringin’, your scarred for life
She said you’re scarred, you’ve been scarred
Scarred for life Scarred for life
I fought my way through the trouble and strife
I was scarred Scarred for life
My reputation it cuts like a knife
I spent some time a guest of the state
I got out and wanted to go straight
People don’t forgive, the police force don’t forget
I was jailed for crimes I did not commit
I was scarred, I was scarred
Scarred for life Scarred for life
I fought my way through the trouble and strife
I was scarred Scarred for life
My reputation it cuts like a knife
I was scarred Scarred for life
Been knocked around had a hell of a life
I was scarred Scarred for life
I fought my way through the trouble and strife
I fought tooth and nail, every inch of the way
I got scars… to prove it
I was in love for keeps that time
But rock’n’roll was still on my mind
She was young and true and so full of life
And the pain went deep, I was scarred for life
I was scarred, I was scarred, scarred, scarred
Scarred for life
Not my fave Rose Tattoo song, awesome band!
thxs for the memories…
https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx….
Faaaack that was a tough listen but I felt like I needed to hear it.
Sucks to hear about his hip…..
DR–appreciate the respectful tone of this opening. Nice to know you’re not fully and always jaded and sarcastic about the beautiful dance we have all dedicated our lives to.
Speaker does not say what is meant; Listener does not hear correctly; Listener gives a different interpretation to what the words mean
Shithouse interview Derek with a very worthy subject.
What were you on?
A few big judgement calls went the other way in his pomp. But still King Kong to many. Deserving of much respect. Excellent video.
I saw it first hand 84′ with chappy and rabbit. Ratting out all day on n shore then raging at Wave Waikiki nightclub. Watched Elko attack Sunset. So awesome
The life he led then was worth whatever price he’s paying now.
Seriously!
How good are the Hawaiian quiver specs.
Was there ever a better era to be a Pro-Surfer than when Gary was at his peak?
Good boards, reasonably uncrowded, rock star vibes and the feeling of anything is possible.
The Dream tour would have been much better, better boards, excellent locations, money and fame!
Now might be the worst era. No more Industry jobs to slide into after your dreams implode.
And fuck all coin from sponsorships and contest prizemoney,while surfing mostly city slop venues most of the year when not in Hawaii.
Was the dream era indeed if you knew how to live off the smell of an oily rag on the bones of your arse and loved grovelling in ankle to knee high dribble at summertime bondi,onshore near flat huntington beach and out of swell season by 6 months hossegor etc etc.
Best times of my life has always been when I was living off the smell of an oily rag.
Yeah they got some shit conditions but there’s alway before and after the contest and the stop overs along the way.
Between 85 to 90 I probably made more money waiting tables
can i join you guys?
one question…
fresh fish or’ frozen?
coors or mescal/
swansons vs birdseye?
my god, those were the days!
This is precisely the existential crisis that Kelly is avoiding.
Which is why, kids, that it’s really important to have more than one string for your bow. Or some other metaphor that makes sense.
Education 101. Or at least get a trade. Its a long time being in retirement for any sports person.
Ok Dad. Try telling a teenager to maybe don’t chase a dream, stay in school and maybe do an apprenticeship first.
Yep I’m a dad. Well with the lack of sponsorship most guys can’t do the tour. I can’t see any young Aussies on the QS unfortunately that are going to qualify in the near future. You get some one like Soli Bailey and Morgan Cibilic qualify and fall off the next year. Great surfers but it is 1 in a 1000 chance of making it.
There’s only enough space for a few of them.
Someone has to be not quite good enough or a little unlucky not to make it.
Like most that try for example.
…or trying to anyways.
Kelly is flowing through life like water under a deep six … Still winning pipe at 50? Choosing which waves he wants to surf on tour ,scratch golfer, board/fin /designer , has his own wave pool(helped create) , clothing company,basically set the standard for modern progressive surfing,,multiple homes around the globe at premium surf spots etc….
We all have to face our own mortality someday.Don’t see a crisis coming for Kelly .
What a pleasure to see a life well lived!
Kelly is the rare exception in the surf world. Good advise and foresight for most though CB.
Hope the best for Elko . Know lots of older shapers with similar circumstances.
Surfing gives us so much in our youth and does really define us that it’s hard to balance expectations/ experience/ performance as we age along with Family and life’s responsibilities. Attitude of Gratitude!
I was in a milk coma around 85-90. Don’t remember much. Got off moms tit somewhere in the
Middle. This sounds interesting. Thanks.
you, me and the 14-year old boy sex machine…
Some guys have all the luck