Exhausted California surfers re-wax rhino
chasers with noodle arms, prepare to paddle out, yet again, into
“the snotgreen sea, the scrotumtightening sea!”
By Chas Smith
Big Friday (again).
Any surfer on any shore, either hemisphere, is
certainly aware of the run of nearly unprecedented swell that
California has been served over the past few weeks. An unrelenting,
never ceasing stream of Surfline 10 – 12 feets+. Monster waves that
necessitate a steeled spine, girded loins and step-up boards
preferably in the “rhino chaser” range.
Exhausted.
California surfers are exhausted but what can they do? Where can
we turn? Oh, there is no sympathy from any coast, neither east nor
south. North nor northwest. An embarrassment of riches is what it
is but how best to indulge?
David Lee Scales and I discussed, in depth, during out weekly
chat. He was of the mind that there is no requirement to paddle for
the middle-aged. Nothing left to prove. I was of the opinion that
there is simply no choice. When surf hammers the shore, the surfer
must pull on wetsuit and take a beating even if there are only
straight-handers, even if arms have turned to noodle.
But what is your opinion on the matter? Do you thrill when blobs
of extreme color show up on your preferred forecasting website,
what James Joyce calls “the snotgreen sea, the scrotumtightening
sea” or do you pull a blanky up to your chin and shudder?
Tell true.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Axe finally falls on use of word ‘aloha’ by
non-native Hawaiians: “It’s about time that culturally
appropriating haoles kept our word out of their pasty white
mouths!”
By Chas Smith
Othering and microaggression.
It was only a matter of time and, honestly, a
pure miracle that we have all gotten to enjoy the word “aloha” for
so long. Gotten away wearing it on trucker hats, plastering it to
the back of Teslas in sticker form, saying it to each other when
landing at Honolulu’s Daniel K. Inouye International Airport smiles
spreading across pasty faces in anticipation of that first Mai
Tai.
A surprisingly long run but, alas, now officially over.
Into the cultural appropriation bin where it probably belonged
all along.
Maile Arvin, director of Pacific Islands Studies at the
University of Utah, explained to USA Today,
“‘Aloha’ doesn’t just mean hello or goodbye. It’s a greeting or a
farewell, but the meaning is deeper. One of my Hawaiian language
teachers taught it to me as ‘Aloha means recognizing yourself in
everyone and everything you meet.” And when non-natives use, it
comes off as mockery.
Aloha isn’t the only word that we should keep out of our lily
mouths, of course. The piece
continues:
“We live in a multilingual world where we’re always
influencing one another’s language practices hand where we might
come into contact with a variety of terms or language practices
that we have not grown up in,” says Nikki Lane, cultural and
linguistic Anthropologist.
Intention matters most. Dropping an “hola” or “shalom” to
someone you know who speaks Spanish or Hebrew, for example, isn’t
something to worry about. Actively don a fake, exaggerated accent
and say those words? Therein lies the problem.
Like saying “ni hao” to someone Asian-American who isn’t
Chinese; this could be both othering and a
microaggression.
So there you have it, amigos, I mean friends.
Nyet on dropping foreign words into bland English sentences.
Khalas.
Also, are you now considering applying to the School of Pacific
Island Studies at the University of Utah in Salt Lake City?
Maybe you should.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
John John Florence’s transcendentally sexy
shaper Jon Pyzel reveals humble pre-stardom beginnings in letter
home to daddy from 1993, “I love surfboards so it’s not even like
really going to work! I really feel like surfboards might be my
thing!”
By Derek Rielly
"Shaping boards might be the thing I've been
looking for as far as work goes and I may give it a try to see if
I've a natural talent for it."
Jon Pyzel, as you know, has been making boards for
John John Florence, who is thirty and six-foot two, since the kid
was five, since his mama Alex brought the boys to see him at his
old bay at Sunset Beach in 1996 and gave him
two-hundred dollars for materials to build John a board.
The yellow four-six with halo of orange rails is “hideous
to look at” but now exists as a memorial to a boy destined for
greatness.
Fifty-something Jon is also one of the most accessible shapers
in the world.
He’s like Gabriel’s shaper Johnny
Cabianca. The pair are in the game to make beautiful
surfboards, not to wind up sitting behind a desk commanding an
apparel and hardware biz.
Now, in a post to his legion of follows, some drawn by his
shaping wizardry, others by what has been described as his
“diabolical and transcendental sexiness”, Pyzel has revealed a
letter he wrote to his daddy back home in California in 1993, three
years before the intervention of Mama Florence.
Jon was twenty-four and earning two hundred bucks a week
patching busted shooters but even at this early stage he exhibits the perseverance and
optimism of a man who would eventually become the master and
overseer of a multi-million dollar surfboard empire.
“Hi Dad! How are you!,” writes Pyzel. “I’pm working
at Coffee Gallery,
waiting tables and also working at Country Surfboards, fixing broke
and bashed-up surfboards.
“I can work there whenever I want, and get paid by what I do not
by the hour, and I am learning more about glassing, polishing,
putting on fins etc.
“I really love surfboards, so it’s not even really like going to
work (except for the itch). I really feel like shaping boards might
be the thing I have been looking for as far as work goes, and I may
give it a try, to see if I have any natural talent for it!
“I love you so much, Dad. I always will. Jon.”
My letters home, from Bali, the Gold Coast and so on, at a
similar age were less floral, and more anxious, “have got a girl
pregnant”, “need money”, “am in hospital again”, “hate work and
love living on the dole” etc.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Famous Los Angeles columnist telegraphs
coming ultra VAL apocalypse, fulfills childhood dream by learning
to surf at 70 years young: “Getting older is an epidemic. About
10,000 people turn 65 each day in the United States alone!”
By Chas Smith
Yikes.
Pithy newspaper columnists have all but
vanished and thank goodness. Their musings about this, that or the
other thing all wrapped up with nifty turns of phrase, dime store
perspective, proper grammatical form and function in the service of
feel good moments.
Yuck.
And The Los Angeles Times‘ Steve Lopez is no exception
to that rule. He was written for the newspaper for many, many
years, one of his columns becoming a Hollywood motion picture
starring Jamie Foxx and Robert Downey Jr. and I’m sure is well
respected but as he has turned 70, he claims that his real estate
will be dedicated to musings on aging.
“Getting older, by the way, is an epidemic,” he wrote in today’s
issue. “About 10,000 people turn 65 each day in the
United States, and by 2035, people 65 and older will outnumber
those under 18 for the first time. In California, a quarter of the
population will be 60 or older by 2031. These trends will challenge
and transform us in ways we’ve barely begun to prepare for.
Housing, healthcare, the economy, the workforce and the design of
cities, homes and transportation will all be impacted. Millennials
and older people, who don’t usually end up at the same parties,
could become increasingly dependent on each other…”
Etc. Etc.
All fine and well, I suppose, except for Lopez decided to
fulfill his lifelong childhood dream of learning to surf at 70
(see photos
here) and it must be assumed that these 65+ year olds
will likely follow his lead. Will undoubtedly struggle into
wetsuits, clutch at soft tops, whitewash ride straight into that
burgeoning bucket list.
Is there any hope left for the grumpy local? The surfer who has
toiled at her local through thick and thin?
Between Covid beginners and ultra VALs, it appears maybe
not.
Though, I suppose, both can easily be paddled around. We shall
really be in trouble when middle distance collegiate swimmers
and/or water polo players discover surfing.
Forever a silver lining.
Always anti-depressive.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Go-for-broke surfer Dane Reynolds’ rural
idyll shattered, again, as Travis and Kourtney Barker-Kardashian’s
$16.5 million Carpinteria beach house devastated by raging floods
prompting new influx of paparazzi!
By Derek Rielly
Biblical flooding smites oceanfront home of
jack-in-the-box punk-lite drummer Travis Barker and reality show
maven Kourtney Kardashian!
Just three months ago, residents ofCarpinteria, a
coastal town of thirteen thousand souls including the go-for-broke
surfer Dane Reynolds, braced for legions of paparazzi following
the sale of Conan O’Brien’s old joint on Padaro Lane there in
Serena Cove to Travis and Kourtney Barker-Kardashian.
If you old, you’ll remember the cartoonish forty-six-year-old
Travis: he was the little drummer boy in Blink 182, a pint-sized
jack-in-the-box dressed up in grown-man tattoos who had a reality
show with wife Shanna Moakler, a former Miss USA and nude model who
once socked Paris Hilton in the jaw. Fine firm breasts and a
sumptuous backside although when she smiled her wrinkled nose gave
her a rabbity look.
Kourtney Kardashian, forty-three, who has the promise of lovely
legs after a little of that baby fat melts off the thighs, is the
eldest daughter of Robert Kardashian, the legal gun who got OJ
Simpson off an impossible to defend double-murder charge.
Anyway, the pair dropped sixteen-and-a-half mill on talkshow
host Conan O’Brien’s old beach retreat, a 0.41 acre oceanside
parcel he’d bought in 2015 for a little under eight.
A real pretty and subdued sorta joint, although cross the
threshold and it’s fancy as hell.
“Inside, a soaring great room displays a contemporary
wood-burning stove and bi-folding glass doors spilling out to an
ocean-view deck adorned with a barbecue, built-in seating and
plenty of room for al fresco dining, plus two sets of steps leading
down to a small grassy lawn and the beach beyond.
Back inside, a galley-style kitchen is outfitted with open
shelving, granite countertops, high-end stainless appliances and an
eat-in peninsula; and two bedrooms share a balcony, as well as a
windowed bath equipped with dual vanities and a glass-encased
shower.”
Now, following those terrific rains in Santa Barbara, the love
nest is “a muddy mess… The 4 bed, 3.5 bath beach front
property showed signs of the water-level reaching above the garage.
The front yard was covered in mud and water, as crews worked to
shovel the aftermath away.”
Hit worse were neighbours Ashton Kutcher and Mila Kunis, whose
live a few doors down, their joint blasted with dirt and mud and
detritus.