Big Friday (again).
Any surfer on any shore, either hemisphere, is certainly aware of the run of nearly unprecedented swell that California has been served over the past few weeks. An unrelenting, never ceasing stream of Surfline 10 – 12 feets+. Monster waves that necessitate a steeled spine, girded loins and step-up boards preferably in the “rhino chaser” range.
Exhausted.
California surfers are exhausted but what can they do? Where can we turn? Oh, there is no sympathy from any coast, neither east nor south. North nor northwest. An embarrassment of riches is what it is but how best to indulge?
David Lee Scales and I discussed, in depth, during out weekly chat. He was of the mind that there is no requirement to paddle for the middle-aged. Nothing left to prove. I was of the opinion that there is simply no choice. When surf hammers the shore, the surfer must pull on wetsuit and take a beating even if there are only straight-handers, even if arms have turned to noodle.
But what is your opinion on the matter? Do you thrill when blobs of extreme color show up on your preferred forecasting website, what James Joyce calls “the snotgreen sea, the scrotumtightening sea” or do you pull a blanky up to your chin and shudder?
Tell true.
those are the days SOS! when paddling in is harder than paddling out!
da hui bummin
10′ at 20 sec on the local (Pt. Loma) buoy this morning… not, um, a common reading here. Deeply middle-aged but managed a couple on the 7’4”. Pic is this arvo during my drive by after work. Let’s just say that pictured left is a VAL LB spot 3649 days a decade. https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
did not go unnoticed, JB. Surflinemen all lined up in a row…rare occurence!
Looks like the end of Big Wednesday
Watch a few from California.
Imo..80% are riding boards much too big.If they can ride them at all.
A mini mal would do in most that I watched, and guys are riding massive guns with not much skill.
I got some big La Nord a few months ago and didn’t die, just ordered an 8.0 Pyzel. Last year was fucked, I no longer want to sit around wondering. There is also a distinct lack of fuckwits when it’s bigger.
Me too, Webster Desert Storm under construction.
Fuck yeah mate. Cutting back on the durries? Let us know your progress.
Nah, pulled back on a few bombs at a Bombie on New Years day. Coincided with a “pick any board” offer from Derek. Need that extra foam to make up for my dwindling confidence!
No preach at the beach Broooo.
need an arbitrator and an editor/
Around here, Sarlo cuts them up and eats them. Anyone want to call him old to his face?
I’m more interested in blood feuds and fisticuffs on the beach.
According to Surfline, Four Mile 20-25 feet and fair.
“clean” and glassy
where’s that secrect spot that some writer talked about near Shelter Cove, then norte to Arcata/Trinidad…with an oyster breakfast? Samoans.Cook..House/
Are you asking Felipe?
My neighbor paddled out on his “mid-length” and got his ass handed to him
Any midlength can be a gun if you’re dumb enough
Yeah was using mine as one for abit. Bad move.
Bucking bronco’s haha.
There’s no requirement for experienced middle aged surfers to have a go unless their fitness is up to it.
However it’s a totally different story when it comes to young guys, they should be out in any/all conditions, getting the experience.
Or called out for bein’ ‘yella’…
Look at Old Mate here justifing his pussyiness. “I would if I was fit” pffftttt.
Hmmppff – at least he hasn’t sold up and moved to town.
out?
Dunno which Old Mate you’re referring to.
Personally I’m fit as fuck (Lairds’s been known to call for tips, and follows my socials) so would’ve been a mile out to sea using the big ones, conveyor belt style, to make my way along the coast and avoid the traffic, instead of running, cycling and/or swimming 20 miles to work (12 hrs down a mine), and then run, swim and or cycle back (against the current) again, like normal.
But it’s those young blokes who should be out there getting all adventurous, instead of sitting around talking shit and making ridiculous claims on internet comments areas…
Hey, I know this crazy and your fit as fuck plus we just met but here is my number, ring me maybe?
I’m a top