Conventional wisdom shockingly upended as
new study suggests surfing actually good for those suffering
traumatic brain injury!
By Chas Smith
Happy days are here again!
Months ago, professional surfing saw the official
retirement of Owen Wright. The 33-year-old had, earlier,
delighted his fans by releasing the “gut-wrenching, heroic”
must-read memoir Against the
Water in which he shared the story of suffering a
traumatic brain injury whilst duck diving a wave in Hawaii, having
to re-learn to walk, talk etc. and eventually winning bronze for
his Australian home at surfing’s Olympic debut.
The massive damage done without actually receiving a knock on
the head was a real wake up call to surfers around the world,
though.
Is surfing, in any capacity, massively dangerous to the
brain?
Conventional wisdom suggested “yes” but a new Welsh study
undermines those very notions.
According to a neuro-rehabilitation program run by Swansea Bay
and Hywel Dda University health boards, those who have suffered
traumatic brain injury can actually improve their overall
well-being by “immersing themselves in the dynamic elements of the,
wind and sea.”
Some of our participants reported that surfing had taught
them that all types of emotions – whether positive or negative –
are an important part of the human experience. Instead of trying to
control them, accepting them can help people find meaning in their
lives.
Making room for difficult thoughts enabled some of our brain
injury survivors to reconnect with their values and hobbies too.
Surfing gave them meaning and a “valid reason for being alive”. It
also showed them that “despite being a bit broken in some places,”
they were still capable people. This helped them to renegotiate
their identity.
Connecting with people in similar situations can also be
crucial after brain injury. Many report that they don’t feel
understood by family and friends. Yet belonging is a basic
psychological need.
Happy days are here again.
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15-year-old surfer who considered shark
attacks a “joke” after seeing Jaws brutally mauled off coast of New
Jersey!
By Chas Smith
Fate strikes.
Fate is a wily beast, man. It has a way of
lulling folks like you, I, or a fifteen-year-old New Jersey girl
into a worn out old rut. The sun comes up. The sun goes down. The
hours in between are spent more or less the same. Scrolling news to
find surf related stories, drinking a glass of refreshing Athletic
Greens, scrolling some more, making an Americano, finding one,
publishing it, looking at World Surf League Chief Executive Erik
Logan’s Instagram, looking at World Surf League Sport Chief Jessi
Miley-Dyer’s too, rinse, repeat.
The magic sorta drains away, you know? Surprise but an old
folktale.
And BOOM!
That’s when fate strikes.
Take the aforementioned teen, one Maggie Drozdowski who just so
happened to be surfing in Stone Harbor with a friend when she felt…
something.
“I felt something around my foot, and it pulled me down a little
bit,” she told the local Fox News
affiliate. “I shook my leg as hard as I could to get
it off, but it just wouldn’t.”
Her friend, Sarah O’Donnell, said, “I went over the wave and she
went under it, she screamed and I turned around because I thought
she was drowning or something, but she got up and she said ‘I think
something bit me.”
Something is right. A toothy, nasty shark.
Drozdowski was transported to a local hospital where she
received not nearly as many stitches as she might have had she not
been wearing a wetsuit, though she was still stunned the by
encounter.
“I’m just in shock, I just thought that wouldn’t be something
that would ever happen to me because I watched all the Jaws movies
and stuff, and I thought it was a joke,” she concluded.
Fate, man. A cagey weirdo.
New Jersey officials, in any case, have not closed the beach but
have warned surfers that they might be next.
The last unprovoked shark attack in New Jersey was in 2017.
BeachGrit’s gory years.
I meant glory years.
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Kelly Slater lists “problematic and overly
white” eighties film as second greatest of all time, “Anti-LGTBQ+
aspects, racism by omission, underage sex and abortion!”
By Derek Rielly
“Moments that are no longer acceptable in modern
society…”
The world’s greatest surfer,athlete if my opinion is to be
weighed, Kelly Slater, has listed the eighties classic Fast
Times at Ridgemont High as “one of my top 2 films of all
time.”
The film, which was built around Academy Award-winning
writerCameron Crowe’s wild undercover experiences at Clairemont
High School in San Diego, follows a bunch of kids as they navigate
life, love, sex, drugs etc, Sean Penn’s Jeff Spicoli still the
defining surfer stereotype.
However, many problematic themes and scenes, as Literate Ape’s
Don Hall explains.
In the first two minutes of the film, we see a high school
guy tape a sign on the back of another guy that says “I Am A Homo”
and later, Spicoli, in a dream sequence, as he has won the big
surfing competition, calls his competitors “Fags.”
There are only two black characters in this thing: Charles
Jefferson (Forest Whittaker) and his brother (known only in the
credits as “Jefferson’s Brother”) This film is overwhelmingly
white.
In the first twenty minutes, Stacy (Jennifer Jason Leigh), a
fifteen year old mall worker, has sex in an abandoned baseball
dugout with a twenty-six year old dude. She subsequently has sex
with Damone in her parents’ pool room, gets pregnant, has an
abortion by herself, and hides it all from her parents.
In the first twenty minutes, Stacy (Jennifer Jason Leigh), a
fifteen year old mall worker, has sex in an abandoned baseball
dugout with a twenty-six year old dude. She subsequently has sex
with Damone in her parents’ pool room, gets pregnant, has an
abortion by herself, and hides it all from her parents.
There is, of course, the Phoebe Cates fantasy sequence where
Brad is caught masturbating to his mental image of her slo-mo
coming out of the pool and pulling off her bikini
top.
So we have nods to anti-LGTBQ+ aspects, racism by omission,
underage sex and abortion. Definitely a few moments that are no
longer acceptable in modern society.
Wild environmental debate erupts after
World Surf League CEO Erik Logan claims to have saved the earth:
“This is virtue signaling at its best!”
By Chas Smith
THE MOMENTUM IS REAL.
Surf Ranch swings wide its wooden gates in just
five days and I would have to imagine there is great joy in Santa
Monica. Oh the event is the very least favorite on the World Surf
League Championship Tour hated by surfers and surf fans alike and
has been a critical failure with ticket prices slashed to near
nothing in an attempt to have someone, anyone, come and watch.
Still, much happiness amongst the World Surf League chiefs as
the patented Wall of Positive Noise™ grows stronger and stronger
and stronger. So strong, in fact, and sturdy that not one ounce of
criticism seeps in. A whole separate universe exists behind it. One
where Chief of Sport Jessi Miley-Dyer has saved women and Chief of
Executives Erik Logan has saved the earth.
In an Instagram message celebrating his
great accomplishment of planting a plant, Logan
stated, “One of the principles of the @wsl is sustainability. As a
global community of surfers, we are working hard to make sure the
ocean stays healthy. One way we do that is by replanting and
honoring the land so fresh water flows back into the ocean. To be
able to be a small part of something that will be here hundreds of
years from now was an incredibly humbling experience.”
While many applauded, one loan critic lobbed a devastating
insult asking for an offset of the wild amount of air travel the
World Surf League creates along with the volume of single use
surfboards and called the planting of a plant “virtue signaling at
its best.”
The World Surf League Positive Brigade pounced, responding
directly with the message, “Thanks for your comment! We are fully
committed to our environmental initiatives and realize sport has
the power to inspire, engage and set new trends globally. We aim to
reduce first and then offset any unavoidable emissions and have
been carbon neutral since 2018, including all Championship Tour
staff and athlete travel, and have reduced emissions by 49% since
our 2018 baseline. If interested, you can learn more at
wsloneocean.org.”
Unbent, the Negative Nelly responded, “Thanks for the reply
however I don’t see a few plants make a difference. Good luck with
your Winkipop viewing platform.”
Ouch.
But if you could, would you live in a world where you believed
all of your own lies? Where you could live life one wave at a time
whilst making your passion your life?
Me too.
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Larry Bertlemann, left, and four-time world
champ Mark Richards, who'd later refine his single-fin Aipa Stings
into a winged twin which, as fate would play it, would be
reimagined and re-released by Lost decades later. "A full circle,"
says Duke.
World-first surfboard design that changed
the sport in 1975 and made surfing “explosive” returns in
much-anticipated collaboration!
By Derek Rielly
"It was one of the biggest bangs in surfing there
ever was!"
Can you believe it’s been two years since the legendary
Hawaiian shaper Ben Aipa, a man so fierce-looking Gerry Lopez
described him thus, “When you see Ben coming, don’t think,
just get out of the way” died of multiple illnesses?
Ben, who was seventy-eight, had heart issues, diabetes, dementia
and had been hit by myriad strokes.
But what he left behind, apart from two fine sons, Duke and
Akila, two arch-craftsman whose own boards are prized by shredders
as well as collectors, was a design legacy that sits there in the
pantheon alongside Simon Anderson’s thruster.
Y’see, in 1971 Ben invented the swallow tail, or at least
refined the early work of Tom Blake and Bob Simmons, his team
riders Larry Bertlemann and Michael Ho riding ‘em to such acclaim
in a mainland contest by day two of the event the other competitors
were cutting swallows into their boards and duck-taping up their
mutilated crafts.
That’s design breakthrough one, but not what we came here for.
‘Cause, landing in stores around about now, is a design collab
between Duke Aipa and Matt Biolos, Aipa-powered Losts.
A couple of years after the swallow, in 1974, Ben was at a boat
race in Hawaii and watched fascinated as a speed boat with a
hydroplane hull gave hell to the other boats. Instead of slowing to
turn, it would accelerate through the turn, keeping its momentum.
Ben was so inspired he spoke to the drivers, learned about its wing
and headed straight to the shaping bay.
“My Dad’s process,” says his son Duke, who is forty eight, “is
he would finish a blank top and bottom before cutting the outline,
rough shape the top, finish shape the bottom. This day he etched in
the arc of the wing a third of the way up on one of these almost
finished blanks, like a hydro-plane speed boat. He got it under
Larry Bertlemann’s feet at Lighthouse in Diamond Head, walked up
the hill to get a vantage point to watch and saw that the cut-out
allowed the board to react faster. In single fins, the reaction is
limited but the wing did the same thing for the surfboard as the
hydro-plane boat, it released and pivoted faster.”
Ben was spellbound.
“Larry’s stinging the wave,” he said to himself.
And, so, the Sting, which was later bastardised to stinger by
third-parties copying the design, was born.
In the winter of 74/75, Mark Liddell and Buttons Kaluhiokalani
were photographed by Warren Bolster standing on the rocks at
Kaisers, both holding Aipa stings, Buttons’ sled emblazoned with
flames.
By the time the shot made it on the cover of Surfer it was 1976
and the design exploded.
Who didn’t want a board with flames and an Aipa sting?
The sting got toned down as boards shifted to two and three
fins, the massive cut-out turned into a little wing near the tail,
but the wing lived on.
And, now, “my goal is to see the Sting become a secret weapon on
the CT as the ultimate homage to my father,” says Duke.
In 2020, when I heard that Ben was sick, I’d called his other
son Akila who grew up with a front-row seat to the North Shore,
with his famous, and famously loved Dad. A rare soul connected to
surfing’s cultural continuum.
“Yeah, man, well, everyone knows him for his Sting but his
greatest contribution was how long he shaped for, how consistent he
was, the attention to craftsmanship… there was a level of integrity
in his boards for sixty years,” said Akila. “For my brother and I
there’s a sense of pride in how we build boards. We carry on the
tradition.”
Duke feels it.
“The thing I’m most excited about is it gives us the opportunity
to include some surf history into a mainstream popular brand. It
ushered in a whole era, a whole movement, it allowed Mark Richards,
Mark Liddell, Buttons, Dane Kealoha and Larry Bertlemann to push
surfing to another level. It was one of the biggest bangs in
performance surfing there ever was. When the Sting came, that’s
when guys were going crash, bang, getting experimental, doing
carving 360s. Carving 360s! In 1974! On a single fin! I want young
people to understand part of their history, because, for surfing,
our culture is everything. We’re at a point in surfing where it
could potentially get watered down very fast. Wavepools, surfing in
the Olympics, all good things, but there’s also a possibility to
lose some culture. It’s more than a cool design collaboration.
We’re re-making history! It’s going to go viral one more time!”