LOCALS ONLY.
The tide has, possibly, turned. The pandemic, now in the rearview, certainly did seem to spike surf participation. Our favorite pastime could be practiced outdoors, socially distanced, a thin sheen of “cool” spread panic. Those who took up the Sport of Kings, though, generally did it poorly. No knowledge of social mores, nor care. When the unwritten rules were flaunted and a local got angry, he or she was deemed as a “gatekeeper,” likely racist, or at the very least xenophobic.
Regulation on the verge of cancellation.
But yet, this morning’s edition of the Los Angeles Times includes a definitive guide to lineup etiquette that has a snarling side.
Off my wave, barn.
While written in the language that kooks understand, the rules are true and clear (except rule 5).
1. Don’t paddle if you suck.
2. Only surf soft beach break junk, at first.
3. When ready to move on, sit and observe like Rick Kane, giving wide berth to locals.
4. Surfer on peak calls shot. Don’t drop in.
5. Communicate by yelling “going left” or “going right.”
6. If given a slap, learn from it.
7. Never ditch board.
Surprising, no? And while some rules were omitted (8. If you see former World Surf League CEO Erik Logan, paddle away unless you want to be gently touched on the inner thigh), the aggressive tone is very welcome.
Speaking of the World Surf League, its official “Sports Performance and Counseling Psychologist,” Christian Glasgow, was quoted in the piece saying, “Lineups have become more crowded and more dangerous. Beginner surfers that do not know surfing etiquette were paddling out at places like Rincon and Trestles before learning the basics and becoming strong paddlers. This has caused a lot of frustration and injury for more experienced surfers. I have quite a few patients that have been injured in the last few years due to being hit by a surfboard, including significant brain injuries.”
Much to unpack here, including which professional surfer ELo brain damaged, but mostly that the World Surf League has an official Sports Performance and Counseling Psychologist.
Filipe Toledo with fewer and fewer excuses.
Going left.
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I wish I could screenshot these rules but there’s a damn ad right after the first 🤔
or going right at Chopes, like our much loved world champ
Bro, leave some chic’s for the rest of us at the beach.
I wonder if their electric bikes are all locked together?
Perry Dane once walked me to my car on Ki Nui Rd offering me counseling.
Is that what you’re referring to? As a 19 year old, he took a personal interest in my learning curve at Backdoor.
Labor Day Weekend Swell in Southern California:
Youngish guy on a longboard with head straight down and not on a swivel aimlessly paddles and takes off on a wave right in front of me. He then ditches the board and like a missile, it shoots straight at me and I put up my right arm blocking the board from hitting my head. Unaware of what just transpired, he begins to paddle back out. I catch up to him and give him a few choice words and explained what he did wrong.
30 seconds later, some other middle age barney on a rainbow colored Wavestorm paddles over, who was not in the vicinity and had no idea what happened, and as far as I know not even related to this youngish guy, tells me to layoff. What ensued on my part was a verbal barrage on the Costco Wavestorm guy, who shut up pretty quickly. It’s not pretty in the lineup, but has to be done sometimes, now more than ever, unfortunately.
Gods work
How about pragmatism? Just take off if there’s kooks around. If you drop in on them, so what? If they drop in on you, run them over. They’re on Lostco boards anyway. If there’s blood, apologize by saying “Stupid fuck, don’t drop in on me you stupid fuck.”
Lostco would be a truly exceptional name for Mayhem softops
Kooks are less of a problem at Rincon than Santa Cruz, Orange and LA county.
?????… it’s a kook explosion, no one should waste their time trying to find an empty spot out there.
It’s full chaos in the cove. Add Jenn, now they’re all asking her dims….. 🙁
Your use of “social mores” had me searching for the definition as I assumed it was just another one of your slips and you meant social norms. Lessons from Charles.
Rule 4 & 5 are fucked up, not reality, and only apply to Trestles (but it doesn’t work anyway).
Charles-In-Charge; Charlie’s Angels; Charles & The Chocolate Factory; Charles’ Lake; King Charles; Charle’s Island; Charles -At-Trestles?
Surfers are so fucking stupid. They are like snot who think they are truffles.
Every time I yell out ‘going left!’ Otto appears out of thin air and smacks me in the head
haha!
florida_dude
https://pbs.twimg.com/media…
after being washed ashore, these menaces are easily identified as shoreline fodder and can be scraped up by a frontloader and dumped into 55 gallon drums. like that dude they ‘found’ in Malibu Creek. #trending55gals
and boldly express your sexual, racial, and religous preferences on your sleeves…insiders know ‘the code.’ LA Times
the only silver lining w/ the VALs is they can’t paddle for shit and their wave location judgment is terrible. So that entire group may have missed that wave and the guy 20 feet inside would be sitting pretty.
sneaker sets up top … when the old man sit outside strategy pays off.
It takes a lot of creativity to get a wave out there … have to pioneer some new methods or only surf in monsoons.
Was that during the WSL Finals last yr?
I hear Doheny is about to add bouy marked lanes so there are less VALs being taken out by the aggressive locals when paddling out.
the city could really screw things up by offering permanent moorings. pay with credit cards…just like parking meters. enhanced enforcement by water cabs, that also function as lifeguards, and SUP vessel assist. tow-in’s and food delivery are extras…
THIs is a great example of how starting a viscious rumor can lead to new services for VALs! Lets just hope that the friendly parking enforcemnt guy never leaves Doheny as he is awesome!
Dis!
did you own property on Topanga or oceanview acres before the conservancy land-drive?
https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx….
I WISH. I ‘d be wealthyAF if my parents had bought up there!
we were paid the purchase price…$25K and forfeited a plot overlooking Broad beach. It was a land grab. ’73