"This is the end..."
A certain percentage of Southern Californian woke, this morning, with terror clawing at the edges of hearts. Invading the quiet spaces of minds. Pounding, pounding, pounding at psyches. Specifically, those who received new surfboards underneath the tree on Christmas morning.
For their mettle will be immediately tested as a “strong swell” is arriving at the shore, teeth bared, ready to eat fresh Wavestorms, Wave Bandits, Jamie O’Brien LOGs et. al. and spit out their pilots wrecked and ragged.
According to the local KTLA news:
Strong swells along the Southern California coast Wednesday will only build later in the week, prompting officials to issue a coastal flood advisory.
Above-average surf between 3 to 5 feet is expected through Wednesday along the Los Angeles County coasts, according to the National Weather Service. Those swells will reach 7 feet along the Ventura County Coasts.
The surf will surge on Thursday, reaching around 10 feet in L.A. County and up to 14 feet in Ventura County, according to the Weather Service.
But imagine, all the big talk after the wrapping was cleaned up, tossed into the recycling bin, the adult learner holding his new cool pineapple-logo’d soft top, talking all that big talk. How he is going to paddle out and barrel. How he is going to Waimea. How he is going to rhino chase without expecting a ten foot super-swell to actually provide the opportunity instantly.
And now imagine his girlfriend watching KTLA, becoming excited for her man to show his skills in those strong swells. Planning their trip to the beach. Telling all her confidants about it and inviting them too.
There they all go to El Porto, sun shining brilliantly, 10 feet of pure Pacific fury bearing down.