Brazil tightens stranglehold around
competitive professional surfing after Nazaré sweep
By Chas Smith
Brazil's surfing domination now officially
recognized by "the most trusted name in news."
Days ago, the world marveled as Portugal’s
Nazaré turned on for the Tudor Big Wave Challenge. While the event
didn’t get the grandest surf, leaving haters hating, it was
certainly contestable and, at the end, two worthy champions held
their trophies high. On the men’s side Lucas Chumbo. On the women’s, Maya
Gabeira. Pedro “Scooby” Vianna might have won
something too. All, in any case, hailing from the land of progress
and order.
Brazil dominates and this is true not only of big wave surfing
but, as every surf fan knows, of tiny waves as well. When, two
years ago, World Surf League, which bills itself as “the
global home of surfing,” decided to crown champions at Lower
Trestles instead of Pipeline, it essentially guaranteed a decade
long run of Filipe Toledo wins. The surfing portion of the 2020
Tokyo Olympics was won by Brazil. The surfing portion of the 2024
Teahupo’o Olympics will not be won by Brazil, thanks to the
aforementioned bravest coward, but that will merely be a small
hiccup with Brazil locked to win the 2028 Los Angeles Games and the
2032 Brisbane Games too.
Brazil ad infinitum.
Well earned and well deserved.
How long, though, do you image those who are fortunate enough to
sing “Hino Nacional Brasileiro” at full voice will feel
marginalized and ignored by the powers that be?
Five more years?
Ten?
Until the global home of surfing moves from its California-based
veterinarian office to a gleaming suite in Brasilia?
Well, for now they have CNN even though a new report
has just come out revealing that the 24-hour news network is being
beaten in the ratings by the History Channel and “an obscure
Western network.”
The stinking west.
Always meddling in Brazil’s rise to glory.
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“The rapid digitisation and monetisation of
online surf tutorials is a blight on surfing!”
By surf ads
So why, then, does Ombe Surf give our reporter a
"tingling and goosebumps sensation?"
So there’s this online surf school. Ombe Surf.
You may have seen it on YouTube, or in your Facebook ads. It’s one
in a sea of many. Maybe you’ve signed up to it yourself.
Ombe’s a slick operation. Fronted by former South African pro
Clayton Neinaber and his side-kick Anthony Laye. Based somewhere
out of the Gold Coast, Australia.
Clayton is thin faced, wiry framed. His bookish spectacles, soft
voice and reserved countenance give the impression of an accountant
or government mandarin. But this belies his informed experience as
a WQS surfer, shaper, and high-profile surf coach.
Anthony, meanwhile, is the embodiment of the modern-day VAL.
Tanned, handsome, barrel chested. Deep booming voice. Polished
English accent. He’s articulate and endearing. As a relatively
recent arrival to surfing, he’s the perfect foil to his South
African counterpart, asking those dumb questions and interpreting
Clayton’s sage advice so it can be easily consumed by the
layperson.
Each week or thereabouts the pair break down famous surfers and
their techniques on the Ombe YouTube channel. Ethan Ewing. Torren
Martyn. Morgan Cibilic. Devon Howard.
Ostensibly the videos are prepared by the Ombe team as a free
online resource for aspiring beginner and intermediate surfers to
improve their technique. The tutorials are one of many digital
assets they offer up front. There’s podcasts, live feeds etc.
The ultimate goal, beyond developing the capability and
proficiency of the broader surfing public – the rising tide that
lifts all boats – is to entice viewers behind the paywall.
Here you can access, as is my understanding:
* more detailed training
* bespoke feedback
* rigorous training courses etc.
All well and good. And, judging by their professional studio,
customised merch and highly engaged social media platforms, it is a
successful business model
I don’t mean for this to be an ad for Ombe. Online surf schools
are a dime a dozen. I think the rapid digitisation and monetisation
of surf tutorials is a blight on the sport.
But I derive a different pleasure from Ombe. One that I am sure
was entirely unintended. Yet it is now equally as powerful for the
Ombe team, in that it is spurring me to write about their offerings
on the world’s second biggest* little surf website.
You see, I enjoy these online surf tutorial videos on an ASMR
level.
“ASMR stands for autonomous sensory meridian response; a term
used to describe a tingling, static-like, or goosebumps sensation
in response to specific triggering audio or visual stimuli. These
sensations are said to spread across the skull or down the back of
the neck and, for some, down the spine or limbs”
People have all types of kinks when it comes to ASMR.
Whispering. Touching. The wet sopping of lips sinking into a fresh
tuna steak. I won’t even go into x-rated versions.
But for me it’s an attention thing. Completely asexual. Born in
the doctor’s room, as far as I can tell. One of my earliest
memories is of the family GP writing out a prescription for some
long-forgotten illness while I sat in mama’s lap. His hand resting
on the thin transfer paper. Ballpoint pen softly clicking as he
scrawled out his instructions. A look of serene concentration on
his face. Something about the entire tableau put me into a
momentary trance-like state.
ASMR.
It’s hard to describe the feeling if you haven’t experienced it.
A warm fog envelops your body, soft yet heavy. Your mind in a
transcendent haze.
I discovered other triggers as I grew older. Interstitial
moments in life what would elicit this low-grade euphoria:
* Watching my father reading the newspaper.
* A finger being traced along a map.
* My wife looking for sunspots on my back.
And now, two grown men breaking down the mechanics of a Mick
Fanning top turn on a YouTube surf tutorial.
There was a star danced, and under that was I born.
Let me take you to my star:
The Ombe online surf tutorial videos open with your typical
schmaltyz introduction from Anthony, followed by cheese-ball
opening credits. Some horrible dub-step-esque ‘amp up’ track likely
purchased for free from a song library.
Ignore this.
Wait until Clayton appears. The intro fades. We are greeted with
a split screen. The footage of Fanning takes precedence while
Clayton and Anthony appear in a smaller window inset on the top
left. There’s no annoying background music. Just gentle silence as
they cue the tape.
Clayton explains what they will be looking at today: Mick’s
speed and fluidity through turns, and the amount of ground he
covers on the face of the wave due to the correct engagement of his
rail.
All very important fundamentals, Clayton says.
But I don’t care, I don’t care. I just want to hear him talk.
The background ambient noise from the mics whirs quietly as
Clayton’s soft falsetto elongates the vowels and accentuates the
consonants.
His incantations float through the tinny laptop speakers and
into my ears like lazy springtime clouds.
Anthony’s booming baritone momentarily disrupts my stupor, but
it doesn’t take long for Clayton to breeze back in. The discord
only further increases my response.
(Sidenote: All the great presenter duos go for this low/high
pitched voice combination. Chuck D and Flavor Flav. Chas Smith and
David Lee Scales.)
Clayton will regularly freeze frame the video, using a pen-tool
to illustrate particular body movements, hand placements,
directional changes. Other times he uses a small mouse pad to cue
the footage in either direction.
Even the soft roll back and forth on the footage elicits a
sensory response. You imagine Clayton’s slender finger rolling on
the cool grey pad. Like an ultrasound wand gliding along smooth,
lubricated skin.
Do you feel the softness? The tingling of the touch sending
sensory signals sliding up and down your spine?
Maybe it’s just me.
On it goes.
There’s hours of the stuff. You can look it up online yourself.
It’s all there. There for me to call on whenever I feel the need.
Maybe after a particularly mind-numbing meeting, or a tough session
in the water.
I’ve watched so many of these online surf tutorials just for my
ASMR kicks that my top turn is improving purely through
osmosis.
I wonder whether Clayton and Anthony realise this bliss they
have created for me with their online surf tutorials?
Would they? Could they?
Or are they just two ignorant house painters accidentally
producing a sensory Sistine Chapel?
Next week it’s Mikey Feb. Billed as an analysis of his
effortless style. But it’s not February’s silky smooth surfing I’ll
be tuning in and zoning out to.
What a wonderful gift this is. What an amazing world we live
in.
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Stab Magazine co-founder Sam McIntosh weeps
bitterly into pillow after realization big catch Ben Gravy has
already “been had!”
By Chas Smith
Love dashed.
The surf world was stunned, yesterday, after
typically only accidentally controversial Stab Magazine
lobbed purposeful wild accusations at some of history’s most
beloved surfers. Co-founder Sam McIntosh,
taking to email, informed his slack-jawed premium
members that “Jordy Smith Sued For $500k As A Teenager For Trying
To Change Sponsor” and “Why John Florence Didn’t Sign A $5m Rip
Curl Deal And How He Turned Down The Volcom Pipe House As A Signing
Bonus” plus “How Red Bull Dropped Andy Irons Because Of Cocaine
Use.”
Truly shocking.
The Australian handsome McIntosh had kept those salacious
nuggets hidden and quiet, according to his message, to nab prime
talent for much-loved video projects like How Surfers Get Paid and
Stab in the Dark. The biggest fish in his pond? New Jersey’s Ben
Gravy.
The universally adored New Jersey novelty wave enthusiast is
wonderfully interesting, McIntosh very much correct in chasing even
after Gravy told him, “You won’t get me, dude.” Well, after enough
inoffensive headlines, McIntosh revealed, “Spoiler: We got
him.”
Though do you remember Dirty Water episode 13, which premiered 4
years ago and featured Gravy speaking openly to BeachGrit,
which is notable for its offensive headlines?
In any case, do you think Gravy being sullied makes Sam McIntosh
very sad? Bitterly crying into his crisp pillow? One that
previously cradled what he thought to be Gravy’s unsullied movie
star handsome curls?
I’d argue it most certainly does.
Sad days wherever Stab calls home now.
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World’s best-ever female surfer Stephanie
Gilmore steps away from pro tour
By Derek Rielly
"I have goals and dreams that I am still chasing –
I’m excited for something fresh this year," says Stephanie
Gilmore.
It ain’t a surprise to anyone who breezes through
BeachGrit because, as predicted three days ago, eight-time world
champ Stephanie Gilmore has stepped away from the pro
tour, ostensibly for one year, likely forever.
Stephanie Gilmore made the
announcement on Instagram, telling her seven-hundred thousand
followers.
“I am planning to take this tour season off as a refresh for
myself physically, mentally, and to enjoy following swells and free
surfing in new places,” Gilmore writes.”I have some projects and
trips I want to do, which haven’t been possible while traveling for
the tour season. I am still passionate and dedicated to competing,
and I have goals and dreams that I am still chasing – I’m excited
for something fresh this year and I look forward to returning to
competition in 2025.”
The zenith for Stephanie Gilmore’s career came in 2022 when she
dominated Finals Day, starting in fifth place, mowing through
all-comers before beating Carissa Moore in the winner-take-all
surf-off.
A win for the ages, although Stephanie Gilmore was conflicted by
the result, even as it gave her the record for most female world
surf titles.
“I’d only ever won titles in the other fashion where you
accumulate points through the season and the winner at the end is
who has the most points,” Stephanie Gilmore said. “In this fashion
you just try and make the top five and on the very final day the
world’s best battle it out and that moment crowns a world champion.
You could have a bad day and Carissa just wasn’t on that day. A big
part of me still thinks the world champion should be crowned over
all the different conditions, surfing is about being able to
compete in all different kinds of waves and being successful all
through the year.”
Always nice to keep the door ajar, like, gonna come back in 2025
all fresh and hot and ooowee, but y’think Gilmore gonna return in
her thirty-eighth year? Or she done for good?
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Brazil’s Maya Gabeira shovels lukewarm crow
into surf great Kelly Slater’s mouth after second Nazaré big wave
victory!
By Chas Smith
"I think if you continue to do what you’re doing,
you’re gonna die. So I highly suggest you stop."
But were you, too, caught up in all the drama,
the storylines and sub-storylines of the just-wrapped Nazaré Big
Wave Challenge? You could/should have been following along with the
action, live, and chatting with online surf
friends but in case you slept in, Lucas Chianca won on
the men’s side with Maya Gabeira taking the Rolex-lite for the
women.
It was the striking Brazilian charger’s second in a row.
Afterward, Gabeira said of her strategy, “We realized that the
judges were rewarding turns because the size is not that big, so we
have to look for those smoother walls in our second session.” Then
added, “I’ve been injured for what seems like forever now so it was
great to compete again and to get the win is a great way to come
back. Teaming up with Tony (Laureano from Portugal), the youngest
one, was special. Even after getting injured he continued to drive
me and stayed focused and drove me into the waves I needed. Today
was a very difficult day to surf and especially to perform rail
surfing. And to do that under a time pressure is tough, normally in
the free surf when you’re tired you rest, here you have to go and
you tend to take more risk than you probably should. It’s very
difficult but so very rewarding in the end.”
Powerful and poignant. Surf great Kelly Slater, at home,
watching the action while shoveling forkfuls of medium-rare crow
into his mouth.
But you will recall when the 11x world champion felt Gabeira was
out of place at super-sized Teahupo’o and took to social media to
let her know, penning, “You are unprepared. You are endangering
people around you when they have to go in and rescue in such
scenarios. I think if you continue to do what you’re doing, you’re
gonna die. So I highly suggest you stop.”
Ouch.
Thankfully, though, Gabeira did not take heed and now Slater is
begging for a little hot sauce.