“You actually feel like you are fighting for your life”
The Narrabeen surf star Nathan Hedge needs little to no introduction, of course, a pint-sized firebrand whose courage in waves of consequence, Cloudbreak to Pipe to Teahupoo, is legendary.
In 2022, he and Kelly Slater, remember even back then both men were well into middle age, danced a rigadoon around the world champion Filipe Toledo in excellent six-foot Teahupoo barrels.
Slater and Hedge traded waves, big and perfect, one after the other after the other with Toledo holding priority well out the back, refusing to paddle, one after the other after the other.
Slater, barreled, unable to contain smile.
Hedge, barreled, unable to contain smile or beat, smartly, boss.
Toledo, un-barreled, holding priority for fifteen-odd minutes while Slater and Hedge swapped beneath him.
In the dying seconds, the King of Saquarema swung on a baby tube then punched board in channel.
Now, in an interview with a regional Queensland newspaper, Hedge, along with Pipe Master Bede Durbidge, has issued grave warnings to competitors ahead of the Games.
“You actually feel like you are fighting for your life,” Hedge said. “At the end of most other sporting events you are pretty sure you are going to be alive. You are not going to get limbs ripped off or cut and you are not going to be rescued.
“I dislocated my shoulder out there. I have had teeth pulled through my bottom lip, I have had gashes on my head. There have been some horrific injuries at Tahiti. I have been waiting for the next heat and watched guys get absolutely annihilated, put on the rescue sled and sent off to the hospital and they have put the event on hold.
“Then you have to paddle back out there and re-enter the coliseum again straight after. There have been people who have passed away out there or had horrific injuries. The trade off is that you could get the best wave of your life or you could get the worse beating of your life. You weigh it up.”
Bede Durbidge, meanwhile, was succinct, telling the paper,
“Somebody could die in the Olympics.”