"Most dudes I know would love to be dropped in on
by her"
A short clip of the Hawaiian-raised surfer Brittany
Hokulani Penaroza dropping in and then wiping out atop a surfer at
Desert Point has split the internet, a few celebrating the
manoeuvre as female empowerment at work, the majority calling it
dumb and dangerous.
Comments were split, roughly, ten-to-one against Penaroza.
For:
Since when did surfers become so fragile. Hahaha. Brit is
fucking amazing for charging deserts, can take a joke and a
backflip. People need to party wave more, take themselves less
seriously and be less critical.
Most dude I know would love to be dropped in on by
her
Most of the male friends around me are chivalrous and
confident enough to not be threatened by a chick testing herself on
a challenging wave. I think they are also just men who don’t take
themselves too seriously and enjoy surfing for surfings sake
without the need to fight out in the water or the comment section…
especially with women.
Brit is a courteous surfer. I heard this swell was packed
and agro. She ended up with stitches and a funny clip. No need to
get their knickers in a twist
Against:
Seen her drop in like that on the shoulder at bowls and
rocky too many times. Hopefully now she’ll be more mindful. Also,
funny to see the blatant double standard from some in the
comments.
I don’t give a fuck if I dropped in on that guy and wasn’t
supposed to if he did that to me I’d be waiting for them on the
beach or the parking lot and he pay a fucking price
And from Penaroza?
“My best move yet.”
Her response to the “haters”, as they’re called in the online
community, was simple:
To all the grumpy people saying ID deserved it, I got
5 stitches in my foot because of this and couldn’t walk for a
week
Which garnered a frenzy of replies:
play stupid games you win stupid prizes
Maybe you shouldn’t be dropping in on people…
you did deserve it. Glad you finally got some consequences
for your actions. Don’t drop in on people. You aren’t special, and
the rules *do* apply to you.
the consequences dont make your actions correct. I hope
those stiches help you remember not to do it again. Its easy, just
look for other people and pull back if someone is already on the
wave. It was YOU who fabricated a dangerous situation, it could
have been the other surfer who got injured. And theres no need for
that, there are more waves to catch. Even if the guy was snaking
and being a dickhead, its better not to create these dangerous
situations. It was your foot, but couldve been someones
neck
imagine trying to defend a blatant no look drop in and then
btching about the outcome
Thoughts?
I come on the side of female empowerment, pro-Britt if you like,
and if the surfer being dropped in on was a white male, well, all
the better.
Shuck and jive surfing that will leave your mouth
flapping mutely.
Recently, the master filmmaker Robbie Crawford was
tasked with the job of photographing a marvellous cast of Mason Ho,
Clay Marzo and Parker Coffin at the Kelly Slater-designed Surf
Ranch in Lemoore, California, for the movie
Snapt.
Their assorted idiosyncrasies, Clay’s elastic curves, Mason’s
hybrid of style and charm and Parker’s exhilarating dash make for
great entertainment in waves that arrive in almost identical
batches.
But it’s the use of an intrusive pole hovering off the back of
Crawford’s jetski that delivers the full score. In some circles the
approach might be labelled an elaborate gimmick, but in filmmaking
actually coalesces the experience
into something very close to genius.
And, with Surf Ranch Abu Dhabi playing a pivotal role in
determining next year’s contenders for the world title showdown at
Cloudbreak, a clue, perhaps, to how this particular harp should be
played.
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Question: Has anyone ever loved anything as
much as Kelly Slater loves pro surfing?
Yesterday morning, just before the Fiji Pro
finals got underway, David Lee Scales and I sat down for our weekly
chat. The conversation, as it often does, shifted over to Kelly
Slater, as he had just lost in unchill fashion to Brazil’s Yago
Dora. He looked off the entire heat, balance difficulties, timing
issues, general poor decision making. At the end, he slapped the
water in disgust.
But do you remember when the surf great fell off tour after
Margaret River? In David Lee Scales’ summation, the whole surfing
world tried to stage a retirement intervention, posting
“Congratulations on such a stellar career.”
Kelly Slater didn’t retire.
And after his Fiji loss, the World Surf League tried to send him
off, again, with what JP Currie described
as a “cultish highlight reel where surfing’s
luminaries gushed over a montage of Kelly’s career that genuinely
made me wonder if he’d passed away during a Bonsoy Brew Break?”
Kelly Slater still didn’t retire. Instead of doing a victory lap
then bowing out, he went and sat hisself an awkward distance from
World Surf League roving reporter Stace Galbraith, knowing he would
be called upon to contribute to professional surfing in some
capacity.
Which brings me to my point. Has anyone ever loved anything as
much as Kelly Slater loves professional surfing? Romeo, I feel,
doesn’t come close with his Juliet, ending it quickly instead of
dragging his adoration out for eternity. Don Quixote, neither, with
his Dulcinea. Ryan Gosling and Rachel McAdams in The Notebook? A
cheap simulacrum of Kelly Slater and his professional
surfing.
But wow. He has given it his everything and will continue giving
it his everything, any thinking to the contrary be damned. Currie
is convinced he will attache his legrope to up-and-comer Erin
Brooks. That stands to reason. So does becoming part of an Emirati
led ownership group and becoming professional surfing.
His preciousssss.
David Lee Scales and I, anyhow, also talked about Yago Dora and
I wondered if Yago Dora today beats Kelly Slater in his prime. What
do you think about that?
Listen and enjoy.
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New Jersey police declare surfer violently
manhandled for “refusing to give pedigree information”
Earlier in the week, beachgoers were shocked as
a video began to viral featuring a New Jersey surfer being
violently tossed to the ground by a police officer for allegedly
refusing to show his beach badge. As our Giancarlo Guardascione
described, “The surfer appears to be calm and
following orders. What happens next is a move only Conor McGregor
could appreciate. A rear-naked choke with enough force to wrangle a
Montana bison, thrown down face first to the sand like a beach
pylon.”
Gardascione continues to explain the “beach badge” to
non-Jerseyites, sharing, “From Memorial Day (May 31) to Labor Day
(September 2) all non-residents are required to buy daily beach
access badges. Prices range from ten to thirty dollars. Jersey and
New York costal communities thrive on blow-ins during the summer
months. Most businesses and municipalities have to make their money
during these times, hence the badges and inflated “non-local”
prices on goods.”
No beach badge is required to surf, however, which led to much
confusion and finger wagging over the wildly aggressive police
response.
Now, the thin blue line is fighting back, declaring the officer
was in the right and releasing six minutes of extra footage. Belmar
Police Chief Tina Scott stated the surfer boy “was not arrested for
not having a beach badge. He was arrested because he obstructed the
officer’s investigation by refusing to give his identification or
pedigree information.”
Furthermore, “the surfer was told approximately nine to 10 times
to place his hands behind his back, but he continued to resist
preventing Officer Braswell from handcuffing him.” The surfer
“continued to not cooperate with Officer Braswell who then took him
to the ground to gain control of his arms in order to place him
under arrest.”
So our bad for thinking this whole business extremely
excessive.
Pedigree a serious matter.
See for yourself.
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Jackie Robinson and Griff Colapinto, rivalry
heating up like fireball! WSL/Aaron Hughes
Surf rivals Jack Robinson and Griffin
Colapinto like “two geeks having a dance-off to the Ghostbusters
theme”
"Given the air of spiritual control both men like
to project, there is nothing zen about the dynamic between
them."
A faded and inconsistent swell marked Finals Day at
Cloudbreak. People smiled, as they do in Fiji, and no-one
really seemed to care that once again vital heats were contested in
sub-par conditions.
Joe Turpel was his usual puppy-ish self, yapping happily at
fresh air. Kaipo Guerrero wondered how he might link surfing to
18mm OSB board. Felicity Palmateer was content just to say “Wow”
regardless of question or occurrence.
And Jonathan Warren gazed into the middle distance, wondering
why everyone kept asking him about weather and when he could get
back to playing Pokemon Go in peace.
The day began with close friends Jack Robinson and Yago Dora
facing off in a heat that Dora had to win to secure his place in
the Final Five.
Dora looked flowy and in control, but Robinson’s patience paid
off when he nabbed the best wave of the heat with priority control
and surfed it to a mid-six.
There were no more waves. Dora spent the final minutes of the
heat sitting, unable to surf. It was a crushing way to lose, as
deflating for fans as it was him.
But as we know by now, the best surfers don’t always win. Dora
graciously gave an interview with AJ McCord in the aftermath, and
did not pull punches.
“Surfing is not about surfing sometimes,” he stated
despondently. “All respect to Jack, but I felt I was surfing better
than him this whole event.”
He wasn’t wrong.
And so it transpires that Yago Dora, along with Gabriel Medina,
will not appear at Trestles. For my money these men are clearly
among the best five surfers in the world, and certainly the most
well rounded. They have skills that could make Trestles electric,
and without them it will lack spark.
Rio Waida defeated Imaikalaini deVault in the next quarter, then
Ewing bested Barron Mamiya in the next.
Waida’s joyful and light-footed approach not only suited the
conditions on offer at Cloudbreak, but richly deserved success. You
sense the only thing holding him back from consistent finals
appearances is a few kg.
Ewing’s much vaunted technique was able to eke power from weak
sections in both his quarter final and his semi loss to Waida.
“Extreme biomechanics,” said Kaipo. “Extreme fundamentals.”
“If you’re on the best wave out there today, and you surf it
quite well, you’re going to win,” said Flick.
Ewing seemed in tight control of the semi-final, holding a nine
and a low six, but Waida conjured a mid-seven from an unlikely wave
under Ewing’s priority near the end. It was enough to turn it, and
Ewing had done nothing wrong.
But it was the opposing semi that held greater interest, and the
burgeoning rivalry between Griffin Colapinto and Jack Robinson,
warring baby gurus of the WCT.
It’s a curious tussle, given the air of spiritual control and
mastery of mind that both men like to project, but perhaps this is
the problem. Each has styled himself in this way, and resents the
other for it.
If I had to guess, I’d say that both are so insecure about the
cubic centimetres between their ears and their alleged control of
it, that they are terrified the other is for real, and fear being
outed as charlatans.
Whatever the case, there is nothing zen about the dynamic
between them.
The first glimpse of this rivalry had been apparent on the
previous day during a post-heat interaction caught by cameras.
Ostensibly, they were saying well done, but each was silently
whispering “I hate you”. It was like two geeks at a school disco
having a dance off to the Ghostbusters theme tune.
We discovered that the rivalry had been in part instigated by
Colapinto’s victory over Robinson at Sunset Beach.
In a rare moment of transparency, Griffin revealed that he and
Jack were just a little different in manner. Jack was playing
games, he said. Trying to get in his head. He was open and honest,
liked to look a man in the eye. Jack, by contrast, avoided eye
contact.
Colapinto claimed that at Sunset Robinson kept paddling close to
him and standing up on his board as an intimidation tactic. In
response, he’d mimicked these actions, and Jack didn’t like
that.
Prior to their match-up today Griffin went in for a hug. It was
very AI vs Slater. But Robinson did not engage. He grabbed a
fistful of Colapinto’s rashie and shoved him past, ratty eyes cold
and unflinching.
By contrast, Griffin’s were wide and smiling as he passed in
front of the camera. He was winning the game and he knew it.
And so it was in the water. Colapinto was cool and in control of
the heat from the off. Robinson stayed calm, holding priority for a
long time in his usual manner, hoping the ocean would deliver as it
so often does.
But the crux of the heat was a tactical masterstroke by Griffin
after he paddled far up the reef, stroked into a sub-standard wave
and forced Jack to take off and lose priority with six minutes
remaining. On another day, against another opponent, Robinson might
have let him go. It’s clear that Colapinto is in his head.
The eventual final between Rio Waida and Colapinto seemed like a
fait accompli in favour of the higher ranked and vastly more
experienced surfer, and it more or less was. Waida did his best,
but Griff was in control. And in all honesty, the waves were
poor.
And of course, I can’t not mention Erin Brooks. Divine
intervention notwithstanding, already her turns look faster and
more critical than just about any female surfer I can think of.
Surely a world champ in waiting, and a salivating prospect for the
future of the women’s tour and the glut of young talent that’s here
and ready.
Cheerio Tyler Wright et al.
But the day would not have been complete, no contest would be
complete, nay, no five minutes of any broadcast of surfing would
ever be complete without Kelly Slater.
Slater was omnipresent again. Inexplicably usurping Stace
Galbraith as coach and caddy for Erin Brooks, there he was, bald
head front and centre.
In an interview as he sat on Brooks’ miniscule back-up board in
the channel, he claimed he’d been “talking to her quite a lot”
throughout this year.
Surprising, then, that when Brooks was asked how she felt about
Kelly caddying for her, coaching her, adopting her, she replied “I
actually didn’t even know Kelly was there.”
Joe Turpel, undaunted, persisted in calling him Coach Kelly.
This unsolicited in loco parentis contains deep irony,
of course, absent as Slater was from the banality and obscurity of
changing nappies for his infant son.
I’m just staggered he didn’t announce the name of his son in the
moments after Erin won. And truly, I can’t wait to see what he has
in store for Brooks’ first world title.
And did you catch the “Grom to Goat” package? The cultish
highlight reel where surfing’s luminaries gushed over a montage of
Kelly’s career that genuinely made me wonder if he’d passed away
during a Bonsoy Brew Break?
Cringe doesn’t do it justice.
Anyway, we’ll see him at Trestles, somehow.
And that’s all we have left of this season.
John’s number one, then Griff, Jack, Ethan and Italo. In the end
there were no shake-ups whatsoever.
I confess to not being hugely inspired, but that might just be
because the more Joe and Kaipo etc tell us how exciting it’s going
to be, the less I believe it.
But I do hope Jonathon Warren will be there. I hear you get
super rare Pokemon on the cobblestones.