Koa Rothman “battles kooks” at Desert Point with screwfoot maestros Italo Ferreira and Clay Marzo

"There were some serious stuff-jobs going on…"

Games of grab-ass ain’t new at Desert Point, an insanely hollow lefthander on the Indonesian island of Lombok and long a stop-over for tube-hunters, mostly of the screwfoot persuasion.

Do you remember the video of a Mexican surfer being attacked by a Brazilian mid-wave there? Maybe one year ago?

It went lightly viral, the Mexican reporting: “So this guy dropped on the wave behind me after I was already on the wave. He pushes me down and then yells at me saying he can catch every wave he wants because he is Brazilian and been surfing at Deserts for 20 years.”

Anyway, that, and this video below, highlight the absurdity of the once-secret wave. Even in your ol pal DR’s lifetime he got to surf it with one pal and the mysterious tube-hunter Jim Banks. Slick four-footers scudding down the line, only front-door exits available, doggy-doors firmly closed. A divine scene.

In this video, we find Koa Rothman using the locomotion of a speed boat to avoid the four-hour ferry from Bali, a benefit of his high rank and status within the worldwide surfing community. Rothman arrives, tide and wind combine to rake the surf into near perfection, he paddles out, camera in mouth etc, and, first wave, discovers what a circus the joint can be. (Five-and-a-half-minutes in.)

“There were some serious stuff-jobs going on,” Koa Rothman says, with understatement.

Still, for the tall, slender and graceful Koa Rothman, this thirty-year-old with dark olive skin which makes his almost purple eyes striking, nothing can stop his Desert Point adventuring, as he homers in on barrel after barrel.

Essential.

 

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Open Thread: Comment Live on real Day One of the Corona Fiji Pro!

It ends with us.

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Australian tradesmen (pictured) off work and ready to surf.
Australian tradesmen (pictured) off work and ready to surf.

“Tradesmen who knock off work at 3pm to go surfing” credited with buoying Australia’s soaring life expectancy!

"They are national heroes."

Australia, that magical continent which is also a country floating south of the equator pretty much all by its lonesome, has long held much room in the American and English mind. Quirky animals running to and fro, a quirkier population wandering pristine streets wearing bush hats and carrying Bowie knives. Funny names for coffee, friends, kissing.

It should come as no surprise that life expectancy in the Lucky Country is much higher than America/England, a whopping 83.30 years compared to 76.33 (America) and 80.70 (England), but the reason has long mystified scientists.

Until now.

A blistering new op-ed about why life is so much better, and longer, Down Under credits “tradesmen knocking off work at 3pm to go surfing” for the healthy spike.

Ex-pat Angela Mollard, a New Zealander who lived in England for a decade before relocating to Australia’s Manly, opens her think piece by savaging the United Kingdom and its fat people using “mobility scooters” to get around before praising Australia, its Mamils, or middle-aged men in lycra, and the aforementioned surfing tradesmen who, according to her, are considered “national heroes” for buoying the soaring life expectancy.

“If I’m honest, it was British men who once seduced me to your country,” Mollard wrote. “They made me laugh. But as you age and health becomes your new metric, you don’t want a bloke who looks like he’s hewn from pork pie and salad cream. Incidentally, you’d be hard-pressed to find those foodstuffs here (in Australia). Rather, you need steak, lentils, vegetables and kombucha if you want a body like Aussie stars Chris Hemsworth, Hugh Jackman or Margot Robbie. And a lot of us do, because public health campaigns, which begin at school, have laid out the benefits.”

Very cool though are you, dear doughy non-Australian reader, jealous?

Considering a move yourself?

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Ride, baby, ride.

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Julian Wilson returns to pro surfing.
Julian Wilson, aged thirty-six, to re-hit the tour in 2025.

Olympian Julian Wilson described as “best surfer in a generation never to win a world title” returns to pro surfing, aged thirty-six!

Mick Fanning effusive in praise for Wilson's return, "Been waiting for this day!! Go get 'em!"

There was little doubt, if we’re to look deep into our hearts, that former title contender Julian Wilson would one day return to the world tour.

Three years ago, Julian Wilson lit up Instagram with his shock decision to, well, not exactly retire he said, but draw the curtain on his pro surfing career immediately following the Olympics. Wilson, who was only thirty-three at the time, was rated seventeenth on the tour after a pretty ordinary start to the year where he’d netted two seventeenths, two ninths and a fifth.

It wasn’t exactly the world tour year Wilson was hoping for before the window of opportunity closed for the class of 1988, which also includes South African Jordy Smith.

“I’m returning to my roots,” Wilson told the WSL. “I’ll be found surfing the points at Noosa on my longboard and I will also be found chasing some fun high-performance waves around Australia. I have a few projects coming to life that I’m really excited about and I’m just really looking forward to take a step back for a little while.

Wilson had orbited the tour since 2011, was a rookie of the year, made Gabriel Medina cry when he beat him in Portugal in 2012, he beat Medina in the final of the Pipe Masters in 2014 and three years later beat Medina to win the 2017 Tahiti Pro. In 2018, he was the only non-Brazilian to win a tour event. 

In 2015, Julian Wilson bravely paddled towards Mick Fanning in his own existential battle with the second-greatest predator of all time, the Great White shark.

In the wake of his decision to step off the tour, Julian Wilson pivoted to hard-edged multi-functional fashion with his brand Rivvia Projects.

Wilson followed Dane Reynolds/Craig Anderson and Luke Egan into the rag-trade, Reynolds and Ando with Former and Egan with Depactus, a brand that flew a little too close to the sun before the glue holding its wings melted and it was bought for a song by SurfStitch.

Well, today, Julian Wilson has announced he’s back in the competitive surfing game and, although he doesn’t know if his return will be greeted with open arms from the WSL, wildcards etc, he don’t care.

He’s back, even if he has to do regional qualifying events with hopped up eighteen year olds.

This time three years ago I was sitting in a hotel quarantine room in the aftermath of my Tokyo Olympic campaign, watching my dream as a WT surfer fade away while heading home to be the best partner and Dad that could be during a very challenging time (mentally).

I don’t regret my decision for a second and I love my wife and family to bits. Nothing in life compares to a healthy relationship at home and the opportunity to raise a family.

The past 6 months I’ve had competing firmly at the forefront of my mind. It’s time for me to give it another crack. My hope is to get a WSL wildcard for the 2025 challenger series.

 

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Much praise from many legends including Mick Fanning who wrote, “Been waiting for this day!! Go get em!” and even the surfer whom Julian made cry, Gabriel Medina.

“Come back brother,” writes Medina, who added the Raising Hands enjoy which indicates praise or celebration.

Question for the below-the-liners: what sorta chance has Julian Wilson got to get through the Challenger Series and then to climb back into the upper rungs of the Champ Tour?

Excellent or not quite-so-excellent?

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