You put $25 in the till to get access to both leagues. The
winner gets $7k + 3 PANDA surfboards on the Men’s Side.
Winner of the Women’s Side loads up $1k and 1
PANDA surfboard.
Past winners include a contractor from Colorado, a world
champion paraplegic surfer, a “fireball” advertising executive from
LA who credited BeachGrit commenters
for his win, and a skipper from Australia.
"It was a life well lived and one that will be
remembered, along with the legend of the Quiksilver brand and the
thousands of jobs he created both here and around the
world."
Kelly Slater leads tributes to “great
friend” Quiksilver founder Alan Green, dead at 77
Slater, who was signed as by Quiksilver when he was eighteen and
rode for the company until he was forty-two, posted on
Instagram:
“Love you, Greeny. You were one of a kind and a great friend and
mentor for so many. I’ll miss you forever.”
Kelly Slater’s online tribute to Quiksilver
founder Alan Green.
Alan Green, who was seventy-seven and had been in a helluva
fight with cancer died, fittingly, at his home in Torquay,
Victoria, right where it all began with Quiksilver, once
“surfing’s biggest, richest, and
most successful company”.
“It was a life well lived and one that will be remembered, along
with the legend of the Quiksilver brand and the thousands of jobs
he created both here and around the world over his incredible
journey,” the noted Victorian surfer Rod Brooks said in a
statement.
In 1986, Quiksilver USA became the first publicly traded
surfing company. Quiksilver’s international sales in 2001 totaled
more than $1 billion—a surfworld first. But despite continued
strong gains throughout the early-mid-2000s the company was hit
hard by the global recession: in 2009, Moody’s put Quiksilver on
it’s “Bottom Rung” list of companies most likely to default on its
debt, and at one point the company saw half its stock value
disappear in a matter of months.
In 2013, Bob McKnight stepped down as company CEO and was
replaced by former Disney executive Andy Mooney; in 2015, not long
after Mooney left, Quiksilver filed for bankruptcy, as shares that
year dropped 80%.
While money came and went, properties were bought and
sold, Ganzer, Carson, and Trafton were Dionysian men of action. For
better or worse, they chose sensual action and experience-filled
lives over material ones. None of them have Santa Barbara
beach houses, Sun Valley ski houses, much less $1000 a night White
Lotus-like resorts they can retreat to. They will now have to
start over.
Three of Malibu’s greatest surf icons
homeless after LA fires
By Peter Maguire
First responders found George Trafton staggering
down the side of PCH, “severely burned and most of his clothes
incinerated.”
In a sad postscript to my story, “Ode to the Palisades,” Jim Ganzer,
Lance Carson, and George Trafton, three of the Palisades “elders” I
mentioned in the first paragraph, lost everything in the
fire and are now homeless.
Ganzer’s rancho up Los Flores Canyon burned to the ground along
with his art and surfboard collection. When I spoke to him two days
ago, Ganzer did not talk about what insurance would cover,
rebuilding, or his loss. Instead, he apologized for letting “Old
Yeller,” my favorite Robbie Dick longboard that I kept at his
house, burn.
In addition to losing his house on the Pacific Coast Highway and
everything inside it, first responders found George Trafton early
last Wednesday morning, staggering down the side of the Pacific
Coast Highway, “severely burned and most of his clothes
incinerated.” Although he survived, Trafton is now at the Grossman
Burn Center undergoing skin grafts on much of his body.
George Trafton, Topanga, 1970.
Lance Carson has not been allowed back to the Palisades. He does
not know what remains of his home of fifty years, but he knows that
it is uninhabitable.
In many ways, Ganzer, Trafton, and Carson defined what their old
friend, iconic West LA surfer and H2O Magazine publisher, Marty Sugarman, best described
as Southern California’s “Waterfront Culture.” While Jim Ganzer is
known for his surf wear company Jimmy Z, he is a
polymath.
In addition to pioneering surfing in Costa Rica, he attended
Chouinard Art Institute with Chuck Arnoldi, Laddie Dill, Ron
Cooper, and worked closely with Larry Bell. Ganzer’s art has been
shown all over the world.
Ganzer starred opposite Michelle Phillips of The Mamas & The
Papas in Ed Ruscha’s film Miracle.
Jimmy Ganzer in the film Miracle.
Although his on screen film career was brief, the legendary bon
vivant had quite an impact on Hollywood. He provided the
inspiration for the character “The Dude” in the Coen brothers film
The Big Lebowski.
Anyone who knows Jim Ganzer will attest to the fact that the
movie’s most famous line, “The Dude Abides,” was his.
When it came to surfing Malibu, nobody rode the nose better than
Lance Carson.
Different from Miki Dora’s smooth, narrow-stanced, trimming
style, Lance’s technique was a more upright, bob-and-weave
approach. He is known for his tail block stalls and cross stepping
sprints to the nose. The Malibu icon provided the inspiration for
the characters “Lance,” and “Matt Johnson” in his friend John
Milius’ films Apocalypse Now and Big Wednesday.
Lance Carson, the inspiration for Lance in
Apocalypse Now and Big Wednesday’s Matt Johnson.
After shortboards replaced longboards and Carson’s surfing star
began to fade, he focused his energy on building surfboards. Today,
most surfboards are disposable, machine-made pop outs, but Carson’s
are hand-shaped, meticulously glassed and some of the finest in the world.
George Trafton, son of NFL hall-of-famer George “The Brute”
Trafton (center on Knute Rockney’s 1919 Notre Dame team, Chicago
Bears player/coach), turned his prodigious athletic talent first to
skateboarding and then to surfing.
People have lost sight of the fact that skateboarding’s true
ground zero was Pacific Palisades.
More than a decade before Dogtown, George Trafton and others
were doing unthinkable things on the town’s steep hills with only
clay wheels. Instead of seeking a career in pro surfing, he became
one of California’s greatest underground surfers. Trafton summered
at Scorpion Bay, wintered at The Ranch, and spent so much time in
the tube that he earned the sobriquet “The Mole.” In addition to
his feats in the water, Trafton also had a Mick Jagger side, and
was the lead guitarist for the Malibu surf band “Blue Juice.”
While money came and went, properties were bought and sold,
Ganzer, Carson, and Trafton were Dionysian men of action. For
better or worse, they chose sensual action and experience-filled
lives over material ones.
None of them have Santa Barbara beach houses, Sun Valley ski
houses, much less $1000 a night White Lotus-like resorts they can
retreat to.
They will now have to start over.
I head a small nonprofit called Fainting Robin Foundation. In
short, we help people who need help. From persecuted professors and
journalists, to the families of murder victims and POW/MIAs, to
veterans trying to get the VA to honor their commitments, to
civilians on the frontlines of wars, we help.
Fainting Robin has a very small budget, no office, or staff
other than my wife Annabelle Lee and me. We have made a $1000
donation to each man. Anyone who wants to make a donation to Jim
Ganzer or Lance Carson can make it through the GoFundMe links
below
I could not find a GoFundMe Account for George Trafton. If you
would like to make a donation to him, Fainting Robin can deliver
it. Unlike GoFundMe, Fainting Robin will not skim a penny. All
donations are tax deductible. Please note who you would like your
donation to go to. www.faintingrobin.org.
Many other Waterfront Culture icons are equally deserving of
support. Kathy Kohner Zuckerberg, the
original Gidget, Dogtown Lord Skip Engbloom, and many
others lost their homes.
Even more tragic, lesser known Malibu surfer Randy “The
Crawdaddy” Miod died with his kitten in his arms while trying to
escape his beloved “Crab Shack” on Pacific Coast
Highway.
I am at a rare loss for words.
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Laguna Beach closed to surfers after
massive sewage spill soils lineup
By Chas Smith
"A 'sewage swimming vacation' is a completely
fictional concept, meaning a vacation where someone would
intentionally swim in water contaminated with sewage..."
Southern California cannot catch a break. Fires
still burning in Los Angeles, former World Surf League CEO Erik
Logan celebrating his birthday in the South Bay and now Laguna
Beach entirely closed after tens of hundreds of thousands of sewage
just spilled into the Pacific.
The cause of this unfortunate disaster appears to be a break in
a sewer main line near a park in Laguna Niguel that spewed 465,000
gallons of waste into the aforementioned waters.
Orange County Supervisor Katrina Foley declared, “I urge Orange
County residents, visitors, and tourists to heed public health
experts’ warnings and continue avoiding the closed beaches in
Laguna Beach while the Health Care Agency conducts water quality
tests.”
Surfline is currently reporting the artist’s haven is
experiencing 0-1ft surf in the “poor to fair” range though is
expecting a “fun” pulse of northwest swell to arrive beginning
tomorrow.
It likely won’t be as “fun” when colored brown and smelling of
toilet.
Real quick, though. Google, as you have certainly seen, has
rolled out its AI generated information at the top of any search. I
just attempted to find the clip of Ed Helms and Christina Applegate
bathing in sewage in the 2015 remake of National Lampoon’s Vacation
and typed “sewage swimming vacation.”
The bot informed me:
A “sewage swimming vacation” is a completely fictional
concept, meaning a vacation where someone would intentionally swim
in water contaminated with sewage, which is highly dangerous and
not recommended due to the serious health risks involved; swimming
in sewage-polluted water can lead to infections like
gastroenteritis, skin irritation, ear infections, and potentially
more severe illnesses depending on the level of
contamination.
How stupid is that?
Here, anyhow, is the clip. Enjoy.
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Controversy explodes in Sydney after
council bans sexy surf-wear
By Chas Smith
"Thongs and G-string swimwear is not acceptable for
males or females..."
Summer is turning downright wild in Australia.
Yesterday, we learned that multiple popular Sydney-area
beaches had been shuttered after becoming inundated
with alien balls. Manly, Dee Why, Long Reef, Queenscliff,
Freshwater, North and South Curl Curl, North Steyne and North
Narrabeen, each very featuring very fine surf breaks, currently
closed to the public while scientists poke around in the sand,
attempting to understand where the little grey and white blobs came
and of what they are made. Northern Beaches mayor Sue Heins gamely
declaring, “We don’t know at the moment what it is and that makes
it even more concerning. There’s something that’s obviously leaking
or dropping… floating out there and being tossed around.”
Well, surf sun worshippers looking to get a fix of vitamin D
from local pools instead of the beaches better tread very
carefully. In a move that further stunned the staggering suburbs, a
council in Greater Sydney has announced a ban on g-string bikini
bottoms. A leisure center, which owns five pools, attempted to
explain, posting, “Much of [the confusion] focused on a poster
showing the kind of swimwear that is and isn’t appropriate. It’s
important to remember that these images are indicative only. In
particular, the image of ‘revealing swimwear/thongs’ has raised
some eyebrows. This image refers to thongs and G-strings – not
bikini tops and bottoms. Thongs and G-string swimwear is not
acceptable for males or females when visiting our leisure centres.
Bikinis are acceptable and considered recognised swimwear.”
Thong and g-string users were quick to denounce their
marginalization and took to social media, en masse, declaring, “If
you don’t like it, don’t look” and “So long as [practicality] and
safety are considered it shouldn’t be any one else’s business what
I’m comfortable swimming in.”
Cultural expert Lauren Rosewarne told The Guardian
that Australia has a long history policing women’s bodies, adding,
“The undercurrent of these stories is that somehow women are doing
something with their bodies to distract men in ways that make men
feel as though they’re being tempted, and it’s up to women to sort
themselves out … Somehow, the responsibility is on women not to
stir desires in men, because then men might act badly and be
punished, so we have to put the responsibility of morality on to
women’s shoulders.”
The final dagger delivered at the end.
“Not everything is sexual just because you see it as such.”
The uproar has not yet put an end to the draconian rule change
though do you have an opinion on the matter?
Should decency be policed?
Or are you a live-and-let-live sort?
More as the story develops.
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Jon Pyzel and Matt Biolos by
@theneedforshutterspeed/Step Bros