Pavones (pictured) under attack.
Pavones (pictured) under attack.

World’s second greatest left under direct attack in Costa Rica

Save Pavones!

As every surfer knows, waves are a precious resource. Move a rock here, some sand there, and a rifling barreling section fizzles. Build seawalls, dig marinas, frame massive resorts right on the beach and, well, the entire lineup is relegated to memory. It is bad enough when fun local spots are made extinct. Something quite other, though, when a legendary world-class break comes under direct attack.

But let us not tarry. Let us hurry, quick, to Costa Rica’s southern Pacific coast and the second greatest left on earth, Pavones. According to locals on the ground, power has been cut to the quaint town and small business are currently being razed to make way for an allegedly illegal resort and marina plus widened road. At issue is the land fronting the wave, which was purchased some years back, officials bribed then etc. but no longer around. Then days ago, and without warning, the bulldozers rolled in, crumbling buildings, mowing a path of destruction, threatening the very existence of the wave itself.

Locals are attempting to bring light to the situation, capturing and posting to social media, trying to bend the government’s ear. The call is not, necessarily, to stop construction forever but rather get a proper environmental assessment that will account for the health of the unique biosystem and the ultra-unique wave out front.

Follow along here and here.

Learn how to help here.

More as the story develops.

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Griffin Colapinto (pictured) making history. Photo: WSL
Griffin Colapinto (pictured) making history. Photo: WSL

Griffin Colapinto’s quarterfinal 10 hailed as “greatest surf move ever” by mainstream media!

"What have we witnessed?"

The Margaret River Pro wrapped, yesterday, in less-than-ideal surf. Waves were few and far between, the manic thrill of Main Break and the nearby Box fading hard. South Africa’s Jordy Smith won, as you certainly know, hoisting the crystal shiraz goblet high into the air and, also, snagging the Jeep Leaderboard Yellow Jersey off Brazil’s Italo Ferreira.

Though it was his punching partner, California’s Griffin Colapinto, who is being praised by mainstream media, today, for pulling the “greatest move EVER” in surfing.

The moment happened days earlier, in the quarterfinals, when Colapinto came up against Leonardo Fioravanti and boosted a lofty hands-free twist for a perfect 10. Or as described by the Daily Mail, “The California native ducked down as he rode into a wave before using his momentum to produce a fully-rotated spin and stick the landing.”

The important UK-based news service continued to explain how the moment left World Surf League commentators “scratching their heads” in the booth and how Colapinto, himself, calling it “one of the most incredible moments of my life.”

American surf fans very much hoping that the cherubic 26-year-old can ride the momentum to his San Clemente and further claw his way up the ladder. Colapinto is currently 11th in the rankings, climbing four spots after his finals appearance, but will need to scale at least six more rungs to secure a place in Fiji for the final finals.

Do you think home cookin’ will provide that little something extra or do you think the distractions, slumber parties, pillow fights etc., might be too much?

Also, if pressed, what would you declare to be the “greatest surf move EVER?”

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Jordy Smith wins Margaret River Pro 2025
Jordy Smith, king of Margs.

Jordy Smith dedicates Margaret River Pro win to iconic filmmaker who passed away during contest

"This is for Jack McCoy"

The much-adored Australian Treble has come to an end at Margaret River, surf fans now depressed, sad, trying to emotionally prepare for the American Single. Lower Trestles. The run has been fantastic. Bells to Burleigh to Box.

Finals day at Main Break, however, already preparing the aforementioned surf fans for the slough of despond. Waves small, inconsistent, “precious” according to the great Kaipo Guerrero.

Griffin Colapinto dispatched Hawaii’s Barron Mamiya in semifinal even after buckling his lightly-glassed Mayhem, though, let’s be frank, it was dull.

AJ spoke artistically about how both Griff and Crosby were very tight during the event, Griff well down the rankings, Crosby about to fall off. They, apparently, realized they were acting too seriously, realized the error of their light-brained ways and tapped into a young carefree energy. A gorgeous high school vibe where the future is nothing but golden and the now super fun.

Crosby, as it turned out, took on current world number one, Jordy Smith, in semifinal heat number two. No waves, heat restart. Still no waves until Smith went left. Then right. The booth attempting to create drama out of small nothings.
The old South African crushing San Clemente dreams, at the end.

Or…. Maybe not.

Griffin and Jordy meeting in the finals but, before that, Gab Bryan smashed Cait Simmers on the women’s side. Much more interesting, with better surfing, but let’s leave for the one and only Jen See.

So Griff and Jordy with a splash of Dog. The remarkableness of Smith’s 2025 run the big narrative of the day. Exciting bits like “heat management” etc. Evolution. Personal character and resilience.

Youthful energy gonna youthful energy, though, and Colapinto rock n’ rolled the first wave in the final frame, ensuring no restart. Smith didn’t care and ripped the second wave of the set to the tune of 8.50.

“Colapinto vs. Smith winner wins Aussie Treble” flashed on the screen with 20 minutes left.

I had zero idea the “Aussie Treble” was actually real.

And then they sat.

And sat.

Three waves ridden, Jordy Smith wins.

“This is for Jack McCoy,” said Jordy. 

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Surf filmmaking legend Jack McCoy, dead at 76
Surf filmmaking king, Jack McCoy, dead at 76.

Tributes pour in for surf filmmaking giant Jack McCoy, dead at seventy-six

“Jack McCoy's work existed on a different artistic plane altogether”

The surf filmmaking great, the masterful Jack McCoy, who until three days ago was touring his seminal documentary Blue Horizon around Australia alongside Dave Rastovich, has died, aged seventy-six.

Los Angeles born McCoy, who had been in rough health with an unspecified illness the past few years, and knowing his time on this mortal coil was running down, had toured the Occumentary last year, and Blue Horizon in 2025.

As you’d expect, tributes have flowed from surfers, photographers, filmmakers and fans.

Surf historian Matt Warshaw wrote, “Jack McCoy’s work existed on a different artistic plane altogether.”

 

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A post shared by Jack McCoy (@jackmccoyaloha)

Jack famously got Occ, who ballooned out to three hundred pounds, off the couch in 1995 and back in training and, four years later, into a long deserved world title.

Famously, Jack and Billabong’s Gordon Merchant created the Billabong Challenge series as a way of testing Occ against seven of the world’s best. The one-day format, two one-hour heats and a one-hour final, created a template that should’ve been adopted by the ASP.

“And the judges didn’t even have a pen and paper,” Jack told me last year. “At the end, they came to a consensus as to who was the winner. When good surfers watch a heat, even if it’s close, they can tell you in what order who the best guys were.”

Jack said it was a system that worked better than the usual way of scoring heats in the pro game.

“The general public doesn’t have a clue what’s going on. Oh, he needs a three point two to combo a five point six, this and that. The guy rides a wave and you can’t tell the difference. I had an event that took care of those things. The Billabong Challenge was as good a templet for a contest as there ever was.”

McCoy reminded me of his and Derek Hynd’s rebel tour in 2001 that included Kelly Slater and Andy Irons.

“We had a tour that was ready to go and then 9/11 came and it closed down all sport and it had a major impact on economies around the world,” said Jack.

“It was a limited number of surfers who would be the upper echelon with the ASP kept as a feeding ground. The art of surfing instead of the sport of surfing. It wasn’t like we were trying to take over the ASP (now the WSL). We were trying to set a different course for surfing that wasn’t… (Jack took a long theatrical yawn)… let me yawn here, typical event.”

A little under two weeks ago, I saw McCoy and Rasta at Sydney’s Randwick Ritz cinema for the Blue Horizon show. It was a reminder that no one has come close to McCoy for his ability to shoot epic wide-angle water at big Teahupoo or wherever and, ultimately, create an epic surf movie narrative.

At the Q and A after the film, McCoy reminded surf fans, most of ’em over fifty, that it was he who fed Mark Foo the famous line, Eddie Would Go, and wrapped up half an hour of questions with a plea to go easy in the lineup, share waves, love your brothers and sisters.

It’ll forever be a barb in my heart I didn’t stick around to thank the big guy post-show, had to race home for what was, in hindsight, a frivolous matter.

From Tubular Swells to Storm Riders to Bunyip Dreaming, Sons of Fun, the Challenges, to Blue Horizon and the Occumentary, Jack McCoy was the king.

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Live chat, Finals Day, Margaret River Pro, “Whoo-hoo! Can you feel the tension? I can!”

"Let the boy watch."

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