Go-for-broke former world #4 surfer Dane
Reynolds moves like a ballet prima donna amid the North Shore’s
wild bumping and grinding!
By Derek Rielly
Dane in Hawaii, with pals, essential…
It’s no secret that Dane Reynolds, the
thirty-six-year-old vlogger from Ventura California and former
world number four, goes limp if pushed against pro
surfing’s pouting vulva.
Freed from competition and its anxieties, however, and Reynolds
creates a pulse-racing magic, spectators rummaging their memories
for anything they’d seen before that had come close to his
re-writing of old classics.
On the North Shore, Reynolds moves like a prima donna amid the
North Shore’s wild bumping and grinding, his presence blanking out
the raucous carnival nosies and moil of people.
This edit also includes Holly Wawn, Tosh Tudor and pals.
Essential viewing.
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Galloping to the finish line in a previous
edit.
Beloved pro surfer who cried for three days
following backlash to World Surf League joke continues to silence
critics with knuckle-duster-in-your-face short film, “Ecstatic
Yo-Yo”!
By Derek Rielly
"The guy’s got a big mouth and never stops whining
about the WSL. Let’s see that dude step up!" says former world
champ Shaun Tomson.
Six years ago at the 2016 Surfer Poll awards in Hawaii,
and during a group acceptance speech by Globe teamriders for best
movie, the Australian surfer Noa Deane leaned into the
microphone and said, “Fuck the WSL!”
The throwaway line caused much distress and Noa issued an
apology shortly
Creed McTaggart and “Baby” Dion Agius, who were on stage when
the immortal line was issued, say Noa didn’t leave his room at the
Turtle Bay Hotel for three days and that he cried for most of
it.
“Noa was getting fucking death threats! He cried for three
days!” Creed told the insanely popular podcast Ain’t That
Swell.
Recently, the former world champion Shaun Tomson said, “The
guy’s got a big mouth and never stops whining about the WSL. Let’s
see that dude step up!”
Anyway, what better way for Noa to silence critics than by
violently undulating his round dimpled butt in the fading glow of
an Australian east coast sunset, humping his LSD signature model
and galloping madly for the finish line.
Essential.
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To Mike Feb belongs the power of feeling, the
power of the soul.
Africa’s greatest surfer Mikey February
delivers second stunning riposte to the New Yorker’s claim that his
style is “as self-conscious as the duck-face selfie!”
By Derek Rielly
"All I know is that when one makes love, one
changes a woman slightly and a woman changes you slightly."
(Editor’s note: Two years ago, The New Yorker ran
a very good, and uncharacteristically raw, story by Jamie Brisick
called, “Surfing
in the Age of the Omnipresent Camera”, which described
Mikey February’s surfing thus, “His hand jive, soul arches, and
toreador-like flourishes play to the camera in a way that breaks
the spell of the itinerant surfer in far-flung solitude. His style
is as self-conscious as the duck-face selfie.”)
In this compendium of surfing clips and sweeping panoramas
fromCôte d’Ivoire, we find the South African
surfer Mikey February, not as the pro surfer who once upon a time
ran on the world tour, but surfer as a beautiful
object, a
beautiful thing, worthy of worship.
No one, I believe, can resist falling love with a such a
face.
Also starring in the short film is Alex Knost, a surfer who has
hacked his own pathway out of the cultural jungle. A little bit
sixties, some seventies, all 2000s. A retro-futurist-modernist
cupcake who loves surf!
“The longer you surf, the more waves you ride, the more surfers
you meet and that helps to widen your perception and the amount of
respect toward everything,” says Alex.
Completing the triumvirate is Lee-Ann Curren, the
thirty-two-year-old daughter of the three-time world surfing
champion Tom Roland Curren, unbeatable for most of his career and
who popularised the modern fish surfboard.
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Pipe Gang Bang.
Hawaii’s Queen of Crazy Mason Ho releases
jaw-dropping short film featuring infamous Pipeline reef: “It’s a
more serious affair. It’s life or death!”
By Derek Rielly
Come smell the glue and chemically migrate to a
forbidden world!
How many times have we seen Mason Ho, the thirty-three
year old from Sunset Beach, clinging to his flying
trapeze, every fibre of his skin at breaking point?
And while trying to postpone the inevitable fall, giving an
impression of ease and grace?
This is the artist’s compulsion, the obsessive pursuit of the
masterpiece.
In this latest episode of Mason’s adventures on Oahu, we are
transported to the infamous Pipeline/Backdoor reef; a zone that
twists into a diabolical snarl immediately after the takeoff.
Come smell the glue and chemically migrate to a forbidden
world…
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Mikey and Jamie get wrapped up, as snatched by
GoPro.
Hawaiian superstar Jamie O’Brien records
heart-stopping POV footage of near-death collision with other
surfer: “I almost died first wave! My worst wipeout at
Pipeline!”
By Derek Rielly
"Lucky to be alive," says Jamie.
The almost-forty year old Jamie O’Brien has snatched a
breathtaking POV sequence after a “near-death” collision with
underground Hawaiian shredder Mikey Bruneau at ten-foot
Pipe.
The 2003 Pipe Master, who is 190 pounds of rock hard muscle with
40 pounds of sturdy protective fat, and who once told me, “A big
gut helps you breathe bigger and better” and who leaves no muffin
unbuttered says, “I almost died first wave! So gnarly!”
Jamie paddles in early on his nine-foot foamie before Bruneau, a
former Pipe Trials winner, joins in the fun.
